the best building tip you ever got - Page 85 - RC Groups
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Jan 30, 2013, 03:20 PM
Navy Retired
Measure twice, Cut once!
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Jan 30, 2013, 05:41 PM
looking up, down under
scruffy1's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wing & Prayer
Measure twice, Cut once!
and make the cut on the waste side of the line you mark
Jan 31, 2013, 11:12 AM
Registered User
As I learned yesterday, when slicing monokote with a nice sharp razor blade, KEEP YOUR THUMB OUT OF THE WAY

It will heal and the bone keeps the cut from getting too deep l

Cliff
Jan 31, 2013, 12:57 PM
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tailskid2's Avatar
O u c h !!!!!!!
Jan 31, 2013, 02:11 PM
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RknRusty's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffh
As I learned yesterday, when slicing monokote with a nice sharp razor blade, KEEP YOUR THUMB OUT OF THE WAY

It will heal and the bone keeps the cut from getting too deep l

Cliff
Yeeeow, that reminds me of when I was cutting fuel line, I pressed on the wrong side of a single edge razor blade. Luckily it was brand new and clean.
Feb 01, 2013, 05:23 AM
Flying Saucer Mechanic
Stef's Avatar
Gee! I cut it three times and it's still too short!
Feb 01, 2013, 07:20 PM
Registered User

Use a glue pot and brush


I saw some instrument builders on 'How It's Made'. Their glue application technique caught my interest. They were really slapping those violins together. Since then, I've been using a small plastic cup to hold the glue and a small china bristle brush to apply it. This works well with all the water-based aliphatics, etc. You can also easily control the viscosity of the adhesive by adding water as necessary.
This has greatly simplified my building and increased the accuracy of my glue application. Way faster than using the nozzle on the bottle.

Hope this makes sense. Feels like I been doing it wrong for years.

Use a glue pot and brush!
Feb 02, 2013, 11:50 PM
Rob H
rph1225's Avatar
Another method that I now always use to glue, is with a plastic syringes they give for children's medicine. It definitely has made gluing much more accurate and with 2 small kids, during flu season the collection seems to be never ending.
Feb 03, 2013, 08:24 PM
KE your cub.
Curare's Avatar
I'm a big fan of the brush method.
Feb 03, 2013, 08:54 PM
looking up, down under
scruffy1's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Curare
I'm a big fan of the brush method.
me too

i use a plastic lid, and a dob of pva or aliphatic resin, and a pot of water, thinning the glue as required on my palette, before painting it onto the joint, or wicking it in if the joint is already "tight"

easy to add a little extra to the area after the initial "set" as needs dictate

i reckon a small sable brush is best
Feb 05, 2013, 01:05 AM
want to fly the big one please
psychlic's Avatar
Get a rich girlfriend that likes your hobby and love her to death
Feb 05, 2013, 01:16 AM
want to fly the big one please
psychlic's Avatar
sorry, i'm new and couldn't help myself. Hello
Feb 05, 2013, 03:31 AM
looking up, down under
scruffy1's Avatar
i can recommend using aluminium tape (the same as is employed in auto repairs) as reinforcement under the nose of smaller planes

works a treat against gravel rash in nose overs, and is remarkably good at strengthening the area from the usual wear and tear of abrupt "arrivals"
Feb 05, 2013, 01:03 PM
Registered User
Simple foam sanding block. Can curve it slightly in your hands if needed.
Feb 05, 2013, 06:10 PM
Registered User
P. Tritle's Avatar
Something else that makes good sanding blocks is to cut up those foam knee pad cushions many of us use on the flightline. Nice and flexibe, but firm enough to hold its shape -- and they last a long time....

PAT


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