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Old Jan 30, 2013, 03:20 PM
Wing & Prayer is online now
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Navy Retired
Measure twice, Cut once!
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 05:41 PM
scruffy1 is online now
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looking up, down under
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wing & Prayer View Post
Measure twice, Cut once!
and make the cut on the waste side of the line you mark
Old Jan 31, 2013, 11:12 AM
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As I learned yesterday, when slicing monokote with a nice sharp razor blade, KEEP YOUR THUMB OUT OF THE WAY

It will heal and the bone keeps the cut from getting too deep l

Cliff
Old Jan 31, 2013, 12:57 PM
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O u c h !!!!!!!
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Latest blog entry: GS TF Corsair
Old Jan 31, 2013, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffh View Post
As I learned yesterday, when slicing monokote with a nice sharp razor blade, KEEP YOUR THUMB OUT OF THE WAY

It will heal and the bone keeps the cut from getting too deep l

Cliff
Yeeeow, that reminds me of when I was cutting fuel line, I pressed on the wrong side of a single edge razor blade. Luckily it was brand new and clean.
Old Feb 01, 2013, 05:23 AM
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Gee! I cut it three times and it's still too short!
Old Feb 01, 2013, 07:20 PM
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Use a glue pot and brush


I saw some instrument builders on 'How It's Made'. Their glue application technique caught my interest. They were really slapping those violins together. Since then, I've been using a small plastic cup to hold the glue and a small china bristle brush to apply it. This works well with all the water-based aliphatics, etc. You can also easily control the viscosity of the adhesive by adding water as necessary.
This has greatly simplified my building and increased the accuracy of my glue application. Way faster than using the nozzle on the bottle.

Hope this makes sense. Feels like I been doing it wrong for years.

Use a glue pot and brush!
Old Feb 02, 2013, 11:50 PM
rph1225 is offline
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Another method that I now always use to glue, is with a plastic syringes they give for children's medicine. It definitely has made gluing much more accurate and with 2 small kids, during flu season the collection seems to be never ending.
Old Feb 03, 2013, 08:24 PM
Curare is offline
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KE your cub.
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I'm a big fan of the brush method.
Old Feb 03, 2013, 08:54 PM
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looking up, down under
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curare View Post
I'm a big fan of the brush method.
me too

i use a plastic lid, and a dob of pva or aliphatic resin, and a pot of water, thinning the glue as required on my palette, before painting it onto the joint, or wicking it in if the joint is already "tight"

easy to add a little extra to the area after the initial "set" as needs dictate

i reckon a small sable brush is best
Old Feb 05, 2013, 01:05 AM
psychlic is offline
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want to fly the big one please
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Get a rich girlfriend that likes your hobby and love her to death
Old Feb 05, 2013, 01:16 AM
psychlic is offline
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want to fly the big one please
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sorry, i'm new and couldn't help myself. Hello
Old Feb 05, 2013, 03:31 AM
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i can recommend using aluminium tape (the same as is employed in auto repairs) as reinforcement under the nose of smaller planes

works a treat against gravel rash in nose overs, and is remarkably good at strengthening the area from the usual wear and tear of abrupt "arrivals"
Old Feb 05, 2013, 01:03 PM
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Simple foam sanding block. Can curve it slightly in your hands if needed.
Old Feb 05, 2013, 06:10 PM
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Something else that makes good sanding blocks is to cut up those foam knee pad cushions many of us use on the flightline. Nice and flexibe, but firm enough to hold its shape -- and they last a long time....

PAT


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