the best building tip you ever got - Page 83 - RC Groups
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Jan 05, 2013, 11:29 PM
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RknRusty's Avatar
As to who thought of it, I'd say probably nobody had a ureka moment. The chemists just knew it because they know the reactive properties of chemicals. My son is a chemist, so I might have an inflated opinion of their scientific intuition.
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Jan 09, 2013, 11:05 PM
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Billinaz's Avatar
When scratch building I often want to lighten parts. One of my favorite ways is to simply bore holes in them. Wing ribs especially. When boring holes in plywood, I do it like everyone else - with a drill. When doing it in balsa, I use brass tubes with the ends sharpened. Seen here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...1563292&page=2 (Photo far right, post #20.)

To sharpen those ends I use a reloader's case preparation tool known as a case deburring and chamfering tool.
Here is one example: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/389...deburring-tool
Here's another - identical to the one I use:http://www.midwayusa.com/product/789...er?cm_vc=subv1

These are hardened steel tools and will last you more than one lifetime.

Bill
Jan 11, 2013, 01:34 PM
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builderdude's Avatar
That's a good tip.

I have used 1/16" balsa sheeting for wing ribs before, but I don't like using balsa that thin because it is extremely fragile, which makes it tough to work with. I prefer 1/8" balsa for wing ribs. But if I could use your hole-cutting lightening method, that might be better than trying to use fragile solid 1/16" sheet.
Jan 13, 2013, 08:54 PM
KE your cub.
Curare's Avatar
Split the difference, go for 3/32" ribs with the guts cut out of them
Jan 21, 2013, 08:16 AM
You know nothing....
Stuart A's Avatar
And if you're working with soft balsa sheeting KEEP YOUR NAILS SHORT
don't ask.........
Jan 22, 2013, 08:10 PM
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sroge's Avatar
My best low budget tool: wooden McDonalds coffee sticks. I use them for mixing, applying and removing excess (sanded to 45-60 deg) epoxy or to CA glue them to thin wood layers for stiffening. Stole large amounts of them until my local restaurant manager gave me a 500 pack.
Last edited by sroge; Jan 22, 2013 at 08:20 PM.
Jan 22, 2013, 08:51 PM
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RknRusty's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by sroge
My best low budget tool: wooden McDonalds coffee sticks. I use them for mixing, applying and removing excess (sanded to 45-60 deg) epoxy or to CA glue them to thin wood layers for stiffening. Stole large amounts of them until my local restaurant manager gave me a 500 pack.
Yeah, me too. I raided a coffee shop at a book store for a year's supply of the little wooden sticks. I use them for the same things you do.
Jan 22, 2013, 09:43 PM
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tailskid2's Avatar
And while we are at McDonald's.....their straws are very BIG and good for antenna wires for those not using 2.4!
Jan 22, 2013, 11:25 PM
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RknRusty's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by tailskid2
And while we are at McDonald's.....their straws are very BIG and good for antenna wires for those not using 2.4!
I call those big ol' McDonalds straws "Pipes". I guess "Conduits" would be more fitting for wire.
Jan 24, 2013, 04:19 PM
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work less than you think you should
Jan 24, 2013, 05:50 PM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar

Straws for drag spars.


[QUOTE=tailskid2;23898938]And while we are at McDonald's.....their straws are very BIG .........................QUOTE]

I got some the other day for another purpose. I plan to use them to make up drag spars for moulded wings. Slide them onto a temporary mandrel, and then thread biaxial glass sleeving over them. When tacked into position with CA and the mandrel removed, just wet out with epoxy just prior to assembly of the two halves.

However, the very best building tip that I have is one I learned only a few days ago.
When applying PVA after wax on a plug or mould to complete the release system application, dust with talc first. Then dust off excess or blow off with air.
The PVA flows superbly without any of the surface tension fisheye phenomenon that otherwise happens.
Fantastic results.

Jim.
Last edited by Jim.Thompson; Jan 24, 2013 at 05:51 PM. Reason: spelling correction
Jan 24, 2013, 07:41 PM
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scruffy1's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim.Thompson
However, the very best building tip that I have is one I learned only a few days ago.
When applying PVA after wax on a plug or mould to complete the release system application, dust with talc first. Then dust off excess or blow off with air.
The PVA flows superbly without any of the surface tension fisheye phenomenon that otherwise happens.
Fantastic results.

Jim.
i wish i understood any of that

is this for fibreglass, carbon, or some other method of mould ?

i am a complete noob with composites
Jan 24, 2013, 07:57 PM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by scruffy1
...........................
is this for fibreglass, carbon, or some other method of mould ?

....................
This applies to any composite moulding process. That is, fibreglass of any variety of resin and reiforcement combination.
Not to plaster or plaster based moulding systems.

I'm not sure just how detailed an answer you are looking for.
Last edited by Jim.Thompson; Jan 24, 2013 at 07:58 PM. Reason: More information.
Jan 24, 2013, 08:23 PM
looking up, down under
scruffy1's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim.Thompson
This applies to any composite moulding process. That is, fibreglass of any variety of resin and reiforcement combination.
Not to plaster or plaster based moulding systems.

I'm not sure just how detailed an answer you are looking for.
that'll do

i am still getting to grips with carbon tissue and finishing epoxy; my release mechanism in wax paper on a glass surface

curves are for future experimentation
Jan 25, 2013, 08:04 AM
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sroge's Avatar
I had problems with my Somethin' Extra and had to turn the engine by 90 degrees, but the t-nuts were in the wrong place now. How install new ones inside there? Finally I came up with this idea and it works perfectly:

Stefan


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