the best building tip you ever got - Page 7 - RC Groups
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Sep 08, 2006, 09:45 PM
Smashes Things
RCTyp's Avatar
Thanks for all the tips, this helped me.

I was told to get a thick glass plate to build on. That, on top of my 2" maple building table is dead nuts flat.

Wrap masking tape around your finger tips to stop CA'ing the fingers together and to the balsa.

Use flight sim (I know that is flying tip)

Did you know that a brass tube makes a great drill bit?

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Sep 09, 2006, 09:09 AM
Registered User
When spray painting small or light parts place them on a widow screen, they won't blow away as easily.
With electric airplanes, whenever you're going to change any radio function or check servo direction, make sure you remove the prop first.
Sep 09, 2006, 05:00 PM
Smashes Things
RCTyp's Avatar

Help - Harriers

Deleted, wrong thread
Last edited by RCTyp; Sep 09, 2006 at 05:15 PM. Reason: Wrong Thread
Sep 09, 2006, 05:16 PM
Smashes Things
RCTyp's Avatar

Help - Harriers

Last edited by RCTyp; Sep 09, 2006 at 05:17 PM. Reason: Argghhhh, I can't believe I did it again
Sep 09, 2006, 06:44 PM
Linux addict
Ekim's Avatar
always cover your models in an area that is colder than anything you expect to fly in... (an airconditioned hous'll do) cause if you don't the coverin will sag (at least some of mine have) esp. fabic covering..
Sep 10, 2006, 07:55 AM
Registered User
Iflyrc_vic's Avatar

Use a Laser Level

A laser level can be used for a variety of building tasks. You can check the alignment of ribs, check wing-stab incidence, and line up anything before you glue it in place.
Sep 10, 2006, 08:18 AM
Fly long and land softly
Jim_Marconnet's Avatar
Originally Posted by Iflyrc_vic
A laser level can be used for a variety of building tasks. You can check the alignment of ribs, check wing-stab incidence, and line up anything before you glue it in place.
Could you share or point out how you use it to check wing-stab incidence?

And wish they came a little more powerful for cutting balsa, plywood, carbon fibre, etc.
Sep 10, 2006, 10:36 AM
Registered User

Great tip! I'll use it later.
Sep 10, 2006, 06:21 PM
Registered User
Iflyrc_vic's Avatar

Laser check

Originally Posted by rocket_Jim
Could you share or point out how you use it to check wing-stab incidence?
When using a laser level to check wing incidence, you must have a method of stabilizing the lazer position and then get the laser leveled. Mine came with a tripod and leveling bubbles. Your laser must also have a horizontal line function and be able to rotate the horizontal line.

1. Place the plane with the wing tip facing the laser.
2. Set the plane so that the laser beam runs as close as possible along the center of the wing from one side to the other (with straight wings this is near the main spar). I set my laser in the "dot" mode and point the dot at the wing tip nearest the laser. Then just rock the plane left or right until the beam is hitting the far wing tip. Adjust the location of the plane so that the beam hits both wing tips at the same distance from the leading edge.
3. Now switch to the horizontal line function. Line up the laser line on the side of the plane with the line running along the thrust line (axis) of the plane from front to back. This should start at the tip of the spinner and run along the axis to the rear of the plane. Note the angle indication on the laser.
4. Then rotate the level so that the line is running parallel to the wing root (leading edge to trailing edge). Note the angle on the laser.
5. The difference from the first angle to the second is the incidence.

If your laser does not have angular indication then perform the steps listed above. Move the plane out of the way, and shine the horizontal beam on a piece of paper on the wall. First set it to the thrust line - mark the line with a pencil on the paper. Then set the laser to the angle you got from the wing - mark the line with a pencil. Use a protractor to measure the difference between the two lines - that's the incidence!

This same process can be used to check the stabilizer incidence.

This laser method works better than using a level with angular indication because it does not have to "sit" on the wing which is normally curved.
Last edited by Iflyrc_vic; Sep 10, 2006 at 06:40 PM.
Sep 11, 2006, 08:24 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by gwinhh

Simplicate and add lightness.

Are you sure??

Alternatively you really did mean "simplify" but gained your English degree at the George Bush School of Inventive Speechification.
Sep 11, 2006, 04:08 PM
Registered User
Mark Miller's Avatar
When you think you are done sanding you are halfway there.

Sep 11, 2006, 04:26 PM
Just a sip
jinithith2's Avatar
don't sand in your bedroom (i sand in my bedroom)
Sep 12, 2006, 07:34 AM
Registered User
the wiz's Avatar
i truly believe in using a shop vac with the inlet of the hose close to the work when sanding or using power & hand tools for cutting or shaping. i'm lucky enough to have an understanding wife. she let me have her rainbow vac. it's a great shop vac. the water traps all or very nearly all dust and doesn't let much back out into the shop environment.
Sep 14, 2006, 02:39 PM
Registered User
You can get hepa filters for shop vacs now, and the new quiet series sold by Lowes have disposable bags as well. I use this combination when sanding and cutting carbon fibers and anything else.

I've also installed a kitchen hood over one of my workbench and used a drop cloth to close in the area. I've attached a clear plexiglass to the front of the hood and use this for all my epoxy,CA,painting and goop work. It works great, all the fumes are exausted to the outside. It works much like a chemistry labs fume extraction system.

Last edited by kfong; Sep 14, 2006 at 02:45 PM.
Sep 15, 2006, 12:24 AM
Practice more "crashing"
Hangup's Avatar
don't have a celeing fan above your workbench(im still trying to remember mine is above my bench)

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