the best building tip you ever got - Page 52 - RC Groups
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Jan 16, 2011, 04:20 PM
Registered User
Peteohms's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenatorLTFO
Always use fresh sandpaper.
Same with toilet paper.

Pete

Couldn't resist!
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Jan 17, 2011, 12:07 AM
RCPlaye
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peteohms
Same with toilet paper.

Pete

Couldn't resist!
and even when you think you have a no wiper a safety wipe is always necessary
Jan 17, 2011, 12:30 AM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtesa
I forgot that. my left hand finger was in path of a very sharp knife.
Fingertip was cut of in a split second.
7 days off. changing bandages 2 times per day.
Still hurts like hell, I you touch it.
I learned to build boats with a guy 25 years older than me who had been building wooden boats and later steel boats for around 50 years at the time.
The skin on his hands were leathery with scars from many, many cuts like the one described above.
He was adamant about his radical way of treating cuts. He stressed that first of all they should never be washed. Then they should be firmly wrapped with clean cloth or better still, bandage with blood intact etc.
The limb or appendage is to be kept dry for 7 days without changing the bandage.
When the bandage is removed on the 8 th day, it smells of course, but the cut is cleanly healed!
I have tried it (bravely), and it does work. The salient point is to not wash and dirt or foreign matter into the wound. And then to exclude water and oxygen.

Jim,
(Trust me!)
Jan 17, 2011, 02:53 AM
Is my CG correct?
discostu956's Avatar
I still remember a car salesman saying "trust me" I always had a rule to never trust someone who said that!!

Will give it a go next time I get a bad cut

Were you implying that this method is instead of stitches etc as well?
Jan 17, 2011, 05:30 AM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by discostu956
Were you implying that this method is instead of stitches etc as well?
No. However, my old work mate Bob would have!

The "trust me" bit was very much tongue in cheek.

Jim.
Jan 17, 2011, 06:02 AM
Is my CG correct?
discostu956's Avatar
Cheers Jim, will still see the doctor then!!
Jan 19, 2011, 05:20 PM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by maukabud
.

LOL! Disturbing...but nice to see others are as "plane-crazy" as myself!

Three classics indeed...at Miramar NAS....sweet.


Oh...since this is technically a build tip thread...be careful using the supposed "low tack" green painters tape...I just pulled up a bunch of blue paint I just painstakingly rattlecanned on last night, trying to do black borders on blue stripes on my glider wings. Maybe I just didn't let it dry long enough? Taking care of a 4 year old boy and doing detail paintwork definitely don't mix!!! (It's like herding cats!) :exhausted:

-Bud

On my last paint job I let the paint dry 2 days before masking for painting trim colours. The masking tape still left tape marks in the paint. I will wait at least 4 days next time. I was using the cheap generic masking tape.

Jim.
Jan 20, 2011, 12:12 AM
Registered User
st99's Avatar
The cheap generic type is too sticky. Use the 3M blue masking tape from an auto parts store that sells Automobile paint. You will like it and it will leave a sharp nice paint line when you pull the tape off.

st99
Jan 20, 2011, 01:01 AM
KE your cub.
Curare's Avatar
agreed, Also beware that a lot of the paints you'll encounter in the home-handyman section of your store will take weeks, if not MONTHS to cure, and will show finger marks and the like from premature handling.

Patience or paying more for better paint are the only two known fixes.
Jan 20, 2011, 06:23 AM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by st99
The cheap generic type is too sticky. Use the 3M blue masking tape from an auto parts store that sells Automobile paint. You will like it and it will leave a sharp nice paint line when you pull the tape off.

st99
Ok. I will buy some of the 3M stuff.

Jim.
Last edited by Jim.Thompson; Jan 20, 2011 at 02:24 PM. Reason: correction of error
Jan 20, 2011, 06:27 AM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Curare
agreed, Also beware that a lot of the paints you'll encounter in the home-handyman section of your store will take weeks, if not MONTHS to cure, and will show finger marks and the like from premature handling.

Patience or paying more for better paint are the only two known fixes.
Yes, I found out by experience that our local brand "Dulux" cured extremely slowly. It would show finger marks after 7 days!
Our "White Knight" brand is ok. Still slow, but better than the above. And cheaper too!
These are both rattle can paints. If I use proper spraying enamel through one of my guns, they do dry much better. But the rattle cans are so convenient for trims etc.
Now I am acustomed to using my airbrush more, I will use it with superior paints rather than a rattle can.

Thanks for comments.

Jim.
Jan 20, 2011, 10:41 AM
Registered User
st99's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbello
Ok. I will buy some of the 2M stuff.

Jim.
3M stuff
Jan 20, 2011, 02:25 PM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar

Ooopps!


Quote:
Originally Posted by st99
3M stuff
Oops! Asleep at the wheel again. I've corrected my post.

Thanks.
Jan 21, 2011, 02:01 AM
KE your cub.
Curare's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbello
Yes, I found out by experience that our local brand "Dulux" cured extremely slowly. It would show finger marks after 7 days!
Our "White Knight" brand is ok. Still slow, but better than the above. And cheaper too!
These are both rattle can paints. If I use proper spraying enamel through one of my guns, they do dry much better. But the rattle cans are so convenient for trims etc.
Now I am acustomed to using my airbrush more, I will use it with superior paints rather than a rattle can.

Thanks for comments.

Jim.

...and as I found out, they're not particulary fuel proof either. I've gone back to using acrylic laqcuers. It's just nicer.
Jan 21, 2011, 03:24 AM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Curare
...and as I found out, they're not particulary fuel proof either. I've gone back to using acrylic laqcuers. It's just nicer.
Yes I am tempted to do so too. I am learning to airbrush and have acquired a set of acrylic lacquer in the primary colours, white, black and some clear. I like using it so much, I think I will use it in my detail gun for all my painting. Clear over the top, and a follow up fine grit wet sand and polish if necessary.

I am planning on a very simple conversion of a small shed I have into a spray booth. That will solve the frustration of witnessing small insects and leaf detritus etc. spoiling an otherwise good spray job.
It simply involves installing an extraction fan in the place of one window and filter/screening one of the others. I can block up around the door with hanging drapes or some such material to sufficiently exclude insects etc.
The biggest job will be giving it a good clean before use!

Jim.


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