GUPPY electric sailplane Building&flying PART 1 - Page 51 - RC Groups
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May 14, 2007, 06:19 AM
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tlgibson97's Avatar
Originally Posted by kitebugy
I tried the Guppy Hotlier on G3 and it fly's real good except even doing a mild loop I keep folding the wing. tlgibson97 is there any way to beef it up?
Thanks Chilliwack Dan
You can edit the guppy in G3. Just change the strength multiplier of all the components. In that version I think I had it set to 25% and you are correct by it being too weak. I have bumped it up to 50% in all the versions I have now and dont have any trouble with it breaking.

I will double check the settings on them tonight and get them posted up.
There will be four versoins available:

Standard wing unpowered
Standard wing electric
Hotliner wing unpowered
Hotliner wing electric

I would suggest that anyone who uses these models to modify them to fliy like your own guppy. The things I would look to change would be:

component weights.

Change those around and it should fly pretty close to your own. I tried to set it up according to Mitja's original.
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May 14, 2007, 08:26 AM
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heliboy355's Avatar
Originally Posted by ultralajt
Hey boys and girls!

A bunch of colored Guppies for a stimulation!!
Hey Mitja,
You gave me an idea...


May 14, 2007, 12:18 PM
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Looks like no one wants to win the May contest!
May 14, 2007, 12:42 PM
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heliboy355's Avatar
We will wait for the June....
May 14, 2007, 01:04 PM
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ultralajt's Avatar
June is to late!
Only March, April and May.

Originally Posted by dennymaize
Here's the deal guys

For March, April and May Send your guppy pictures here to the thread. I think we should talk Mitja into being the judge here:-) At the end of the month they will be judged for creativity and resourcefulness. The winner will
be the featured picture for the following month on the web site and receive a prize of some sort, pair of servos, small outrunner suitable for Guppy or a gift certificate for $25 at Polecat. Just to show you my heart is in the right place,
it does not have to be from a Polecat kit, it can be scratch built also! Just trying to promote the art of building and personalizing your pride and joy.

May 14, 2007, 02:09 PM
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Icoman's Avatar
I think everybody is playing tactics and waiting for the end of the month ...
Or not?
Anyway, here is my Guppy. I did endeavour to be cool and still scale looking glider. It is built from plans and it has a hotliner wing.
I made some stickers with CAD sw. to have the same registration as I have it on CONDOR competition soaring simulator.

I feel kinda blue these days ...

Best regards, Ico
Last edited by Icoman; May 14, 2007 at 02:44 PM.
May 15, 2007, 06:26 AM
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I am just fitting the pushrod to the elevator - up through the tail on a nice curve...

What I have noticed is that the Dubro micro pushrod (#852 with 0.032 wire) appear really hard to move.

I have a spare Sullivan gold-n-wire that I also tried (#587 with 0.025 wire) and it looks a lot better and is easier to move.

I have got a smooth curve - that even matches the plans - but there is still a lot more friction that I like.

What pushrods is everyone using here?
Is there some trick to getting it to move more easily?
Does the wire eventually take up the right shape and start to move with less friction?

May 15, 2007, 06:47 AM
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ultralajt's Avatar
Originally Posted by TugBoat
What pushrods is everyone using here?
Is there some trick to getting it to move more easily?
Does the wire eventually take up the right shape and start to move with less friction?
I use two pushrods (dont know the manufacturer) that are
of plastic tube with outside diameter of 2 mm, both containing a steel rod with diameter 0,8mm.
But I replace one steel rod with thinner one that have 0,6mm diameter.
This one goes for the elevator. The friction is not so great to be worried about at my "setup".

And a hint!
Install pushrods in complete...(plastic tube and steel rod inserted), because if you want to install rod later into curved tube, you can encounter troubles, and later also a higher friction...

May 15, 2007, 07:14 AM
Nothing like a good WOODIE!
cooper998's Avatar
When setting up my elevator control wire (supplied Dubro from the kit) I pre curved the wire in the area that has the arc and I noticed much less friction that way. Just make sure you dont over curve the wire or you will still have friction. It's definitly a trial and error setup but works fine once its set.

May 15, 2007, 08:36 AM
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Aio_1's Avatar
The thinner wire solution works well. I've done the same as Mitja in the past. The mini snakes I used might be the same ones. They're about 2mm plastic sleeve with a piano wire inner. The LHS sells them with either 0.6 or 0.8mm piano wire in the same outer. When you bend a tube it tends to flatten and pinches the inner. I'm sure that's the source of most of the resistance. I wouldn't have thought the bend in the inner itself would matter much.

May 16, 2007, 11:22 AM
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heliboy355's Avatar
Almost finished !
May 17, 2007, 05:20 PM
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rtherbe's Avatar
I'll add my two cents on the control wire debate: I use carbon rod of similar size to the piano wire, it is lighter and self lubricates. You just need to ca some short metal wire pieces(Z-bends) on the control ends, wrap with braided fishing line or Kevlar thread. soak some more ca,and there you go...
May 18, 2007, 11:17 AM
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had an idea myself, although not tried it yet, but i will certainly have a go when i start to build my guppy kit, unless of course somebody can think of a reason why it wont work.

I thought of heating the tube up enough to soften it so that it can be pre bent to shape, that way the tube shouldnt pinch the wire since it will form around it.

Cant really see any probs with that, apart from totally melting the tube.
May 18, 2007, 12:22 PM
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ultralajt's Avatar
corkyo4, there is no fear for common type of pusdhrod bowden (plastic tube and steel rod) to be "damaged" on bending, when setting it into curve inside the vertical fin.
This "system" of acutating the elevator on top of the fin is common at "T" tailed sailplanes. Look at some hotliners! many have the same design.
And the friction is not such a problem. Indeed it is much larger that at straight linkages, but still managable for the servos.


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