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Dec 18, 2016, 10:49 AM
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Lynxman's Avatar
I make my own rotors and blades. I used to make helicopters back in 2004-2006. I have lots of threads in the micro forum from back then. These days I use a CNC milling machine and lathe. I might get the Walkera or Blade and make new lightweight mechanics which use the fuselage as a load bearing structure to reduce weight.
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Dec 18, 2016, 11:14 AM
Build'm,Fly'm,Crash'm
redlite's Avatar
I would have to agree with LP, he's done his homework.

Plastic kits are doable, but the amount of work at thinning the fuselage is huge and that is the price. Especially the area aft of the main rotor. The tail is where the worst weight is.

The size of the scale is also important if you want to go cheap (see top post on previous page and last post on next previous page). 1/48 scale is about as big as you'll go. Any larger and you'll have to go LP's route. BTW, 1/72 scale is ultra cheap, but just as much work.

LP's 1/48 H-34 model is about 15 grams lighter than mine. That translates into a more fun flying model and more forgiving of minor mistakes. Vacuform fuselages are the way to go, but one negative aspect is they lack the skin detail of plastic kits, so there are trade offs.

Joe
Dec 18, 2016, 11:35 AM
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Lynxman's Avatar
I'm going to try.
Dec 18, 2016, 02:47 PM
Build'm,Fly'm,Crash'm
redlite's Avatar
Good! Could you post your progress here or start a new thread and I'll be a subscriber as I'd like to see how problems were solved.

This thread is about how to convert plastic kits and not why you shouldn't attempt it. LP points out the major pitfalls, so you shouldn't worry too much if you heed the warnings.

Cutting the fuse weight in half is the ticket...easier said than done, but none the less, must be done. Then you'll have a fighting chance.

I'm not a big fan of modern heli's, but your Lynx is very cool and worth doing. The wildcat paint job is, well, wild! The shape is complex and you'll have your hands full thinning it, for sure...

Joe
Dec 19, 2016, 04:31 AM
Registered User
Lupusprimus's Avatar
It also depends on which heli you can block. Here the German colleague has installed Trex 250 with rear deflection in plastic models.
Detail you find here:
http://www.rclineforum.de/forum/boar...-neuer-250-er/
Dec 19, 2016, 05:29 AM
Registered User
Hi Lupusprimus,

Great works! A micro belt dive system!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lupusprimus
It also depends on which heli you can block. Here the German colleague has installed Trex 250 with rear deflection in plastic models.
Detail you find here:
http://www.rclineforum.de/forum/boar...-neuer-250-er/
Dec 23, 2016, 11:48 AM
Registered User
Lynxman's Avatar
I received my Revell 1:32 Lynx model today. It's pretty good. Some small scale errors here and there which I will fix, plus some variations that don't exist on the Norwegian MK86, which I will also have to change. The biggest change will be to remove the radome under the nose, reduce the bulk of the sponsons and cut down the tailplane to the right length.

I assembled the whole fuselage with tail and sponsons using tape, and it weighs 70 g. There's a lot of extra plastic that can be removed very easily, so it should be easy to reduce the weight. The roofall the way from the windshield to the exhaust fairings has an extra level which can be removed. In addition I plan to use the fuselage as the load bearing part which will eliminate some of the frame weight.

I worked as a Lynx technician from 1997 to 2015, so I really want to get it to work. I also want to buy a 1:6 scale Len Mount Army Lynx and convert to Navy Lynx some day.
Last edited by Lynxman; Dec 23, 2016 at 12:50 PM.
Dec 23, 2016, 04:02 PM
Registered User
Lynxman's Avatar
I think I'll try using a thin MXL belt to drive the tail rotor, using a motor in the rear of the fuselage. I have removed some material in the boom to let the bearings spin freely, and provide room for the belt. I'll have to coat the inside with epoxy and maybe some 25g/m2 fiberglass to add some strength.

The Align T-Rex 150X looks like it has nice electronics for something like this, with a 2S battery.
Last edited by Lynxman; Dec 23, 2016 at 04:25 PM.
Dec 23, 2016, 07:42 PM
Registered User
Hi Lynxman,

a nice plan, and interesting pictures! If you use a mechanism of Trex 150X, you had better to investigate the possibility of a tail-servo conversion because it uses a brushless tail motor system. Makers sometimes use any special signals (not standard ones) between a receiver and controllers.
Dec 24, 2016, 10:07 AM
Registered User
Lynxman's Avatar
I won't use a tail servo. I just plan to move the tail motor forward. If it doens't work out I will just put a small GWS B2C tail motor up on the tail.

I ordered some belts from SDP-SI, and make pulleys witha 3D-printer.
Last edited by Lynxman; Dec 24, 2016 at 10:18 AM.
Dec 24, 2016, 11:27 AM
Build'm,Fly'm,Crash'm
redlite's Avatar
Test hover and controlled drift went better than hoped for.

At 95 grams, she lifts off without a care, mission ready. No extra weight was needed for balance, battery will suffice.

Paint and then decals...Revell supplied excellent graphics for this model, which will help in the final look.

The goal was to keep it under 99 grams...it'll be close...

Joe
Dec 24, 2016, 05:53 PM
Registered User
Lynxman's Avatar
Bearing tubes for the tail rotor shaft. I will build up fairings around the tubes. The Norwegian Lynx has a larger faired area on the left of the tail gearbox than the styrene part.
Dec 24, 2016, 06:26 PM
Registered User
Hi Lynxmann

You can buy the parts including the 6-axis gyro 150X GRS now at:
http://shop.align.com.tw/index.php?cPath=11_21_2944
Last edited by K2-tokyo; Dec 24, 2016 at 08:29 PM.
Dec 24, 2016, 10:04 PM
Registered User
Lynxman's Avatar
Nice. I have to buy a new transmitter to fly the Trex 150 though. That's annoying. I wish they had chosen Fasst instead of S-FHSS.

Here's the progress. The tail boom is close to finished. I used epoxy resin and micro balloons for the fairing, so it's strong. The sponsons have to dry until I can shape the putty furter.

Apart from the cockpit sides and windshield, I plan to assemble it further using screws so that I can have full accss to the internals. The bottom tray covers almost the whole fuselage. I plan to use magnets for the cabin doors to install the battery.

I also 3D-printed a semi scale tail rotor for my GWS B2C tail motor. It weighs 0,7 g and spins very smoothly.
Dec 24, 2016, 11:19 PM
Registered User
Hi Lynxman,

3D printed tail rotors, unbelievable! But, if you use the mechanism of 150X, is the gear module 0.3 too small to drive 4-blades of 400 mm diameter? If not, you might need 2 or three servo signal reversers for larger swash servos and larger controllers:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigyt...-reverser.html
Last edited by K2-tokyo; Dec 24, 2016 at 11:26 PM.


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