Glostik Design and Build Thread - Page 2 - RC Groups
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May 31, 2006, 05:14 PM
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OK , Here is a pic comparing the different designs.
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May 31, 2006, 05:24 PM
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Here I have drawn the bottom part. The triangle in the back is an internal reinforcement, and should be 1/8 longer than the horizontal tail cord.

The front of the triangle reinforcement is about 3/4 inch wide. Don't want to make that area to thin. This is to add torsional stiffness to the back.

The Mid section between the wing and tail can be straight or curved. I like curved. This one was stretched 1 inch like the fuse.

The internal formers are 2 inch's wide, with 2mm sheeting on each side. So your bottom piece will be about 2 1/4 inch wide overall. This well give you sanding room.
May 31, 2006, 05:39 PM
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Using the measurements from the top and side view of the drawing , it should be easy to figure out the size of the formers.
May 31, 2006, 05:46 PM
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By the way. I should mention that if your going to build from the provided plans.

The Red lines are the cut lines for the parts made of 2mm depron.

The blue lines are the cut lines for the parts made of 3mm depron.
Last edited by UAVPilot; Jun 11, 2006 at 07:47 PM.
May 31, 2006, 05:57 PM
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Found some pics of Mike Connallys 45 inch span GloStik.

Made with 3mm ,and 6mm depron.

It is a exact copy of the 30" span BioGloStik he has, but all the measurements were x 1.5.

He added crow and flap mixing, could slow it down real slow. It was light enough to fly indoors. Looked strange flying something that big indoors. Usually cleared the airspace when he flew it
May 31, 2006, 07:20 PM
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Next I guess we can draw the wings. The pic below is from the existing plan.

The two halves of the airfoil section of the wing gives a 26 inch span model , The wing tips are 2 inches a piece giving a total of 30 ".

The one I well be drawing well have a 28 inch long airfoil section, with 1 inch wing tips , giving it a span of 30"

Mikes 30" span BioGlo had a full 30' span airfoil wing with no wing tips. The fuselage was also an inch longer than the one I am drawing now.

You can make many variations of wing lengths by changing the airfoil section length, and the wing tip length.

The longest span I put on one of these so far is 32 inches. Built it for a guy that just like to fly slow and easy. Thats also the one I put in the dial a color fuselage lights in
Last edited by UAVPilot; May 31, 2006 at 08:08 PM.
May 31, 2006, 07:23 PM
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once again , the red line is the cut line for the 2mm depron. It shows to be longer than the wing cord ,but it will shrink when rolled into the airfoil shape.
May 31, 2006, 10:55 PM
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Hey ernie,Cool thread man.Thanks for sharing this with us.I've been wanting to pick your mind for a while now.I'm going to go ahead and start gathering up the materials.I'll post pics of my progress....If it was'nt for the demo flight you gave gave me,I'm not sure if I would have been this interested...Talk to you later ...
Jun 01, 2006, 01:09 AM
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Thanks jerry

I found a video that mike did awhile back. GloStik Video

There are more videos of them flying at night that some others have ( Dick , you watching?)
Jun 01, 2006, 02:34 AM
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I went ahead a finished the tail. This tail will be kinda plain.

The GreenGlo had this tail but the tips were cut with a curve in them.

The blue outline shows a possible tail design.
Jun 01, 2006, 03:13 PM
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OK , have the wings drawn.

once again, the blue line shows a different possibility.

The airfoil section was lengthened to 14 inches. with a 1 inch wide wing tips.

the wing template is over sized to allow for the curvature of the airfoil and to allow it to be sanded flush.
I also can't stress enough on how square the wing template needs to be. This is to help build a straight wing. Check it twice!

Ailerons can be made however. Just not to big, cause this plane can go fast!

You will need two airfoil templates.

There are three, 3mm ribs that will be cut for the center section . The center rib is the one for the carbon tube used as a front wing pin, to the left of the picture.

The plans only show two center ribs, this was later updated to three to allow for easy tube insertion

The other 8 ribs will be 2mm . The first one needs to be 1 inch away from the center of the wing. This will position it right over the fuselage wing saddle.
The two ribs in between just need to be spaced out accordingly.
Jun 01, 2006, 10:01 PM
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I guess we can start cutting templates.
If you plan to only build one, you can cut directly through the plans into the foam.

But I recommend cutting out templates. At least for the parts you have to cut multiples of. Best to cut the poster board on top of another piece of poster board to help save your knife blades.

I'm not going to bother cutting out the one I have drawn since I already have templates for that model. Well probably cut it later on the modified lines for another model.

I can scan any of the parts I have modified, if any one needs it cause they don't have a curve set to draw curved tail parts.
Jun 01, 2006, 10:17 PM
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If my Dad ever gave me anything useful it was probably this transparent curve set. I have had them as long as I can remember. He actually made these himself except for the upper ones, those were store bought.
Jun 02, 2006, 02:18 PM
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OK , We can start cutting parts. But first, We need to find the grain direction of the foam. This is only important for the wing panels.

First apply a piece of tape to the corner of the 2mm depron. Make it rectangle so you know which direction you cut it off from.

Cut the area around the tape then try to roll it into a tube. A piece of pipe , broom handle or anything round well help.

If it rolls up smooth with little wrinkles, than is the grain direction you want to cut your wing panels.

If it makes big wrinkles when trying to roll it , then this is NOT to way you want to roll your wing panels.

Also note that some depron is more shiny on one side than the other. I like to put the shiny side to the inside to let the light reflect around better. Plus , on the wing panel , the shiny side will crack easier.
Jun 02, 2006, 02:44 PM
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Forming the wing panels

Lets get the hard part out of the way.

After you cut your four wing panels, making sure they are sguare, it's time to roll a airfoil into them.

The 2mm foam rolls pretty easy, especially if the shiny side is to the inside.

If you have trouble with it cracking, this is were the Scotch 3M blue # 2080 painters tape comes in handy. Just put it on the outside of the leading edge of the panel and you can roll it as much as you want. Fact, you can bend around 180 degrees and it wont break. All of mine so far, I have not had to use this method on the 2mm depron. It's pretty flexible. But you have to if your building a larger one with 3mm.

Roll it enough to were they fit the ribs as close as possible. You can use a bigger tube through the center , then use a smaller tube toward the leading edge.

Afterward, you can remove the tape. The tape can be reused on the next piece if your cheap like me. ( that stuff is $10 bucks a roll!)

Do not try using the 3M Blue #2090 as it can remove the surface of the skin. The #2080 is less tacky.
Last edited by UAVPilot; Jun 13, 2006 at 07:24 PM. Reason: add title

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