is there an up to date plan and best parts list for a standard springer?

Originally Posted by tghsmith

is there an up to date plan and best parts list for a standard springer?

The most comprehensive plan set is the Ken Riley PDFs set linked on the first page.
Post #8282

After reading this thread, weeks, I can't remember half the stuff I read.
What is the common rotation of prop for a stock direct drive motor?

Terry

Mine is left hand, anti-clockwise rotatation.

Originally Posted by marter1229

After reading this thread, weeks, I can't remember half the stuff I read.
What is the common rotation of prop for a stock direct drive motor?

Terry

Originally Posted by Umi_Ryuzuki

Mine is left hand, anti-clockwise rotatation.

There is a difference in how europe and North America label the rotation of a prop. In Europe, it is when standing "in" the boat/ship looking aft at the propeller. In North America the convention is if you were standing behind the vessel looking at the prop. The standard rotation for a prop in the North American convention is Right hand, so that is a left hand prop in Europe as Umi mentioned.

Hope that clarifies for ya
Cheers
G-O

Just order a three blade 40mm left hand propeller from Harbor Models.
http://www.harbormodels.com/site08/m...s_raboesch.htm



Springer tug boat propeller size

Originally Posted by Umi_Ryuzuki

Just order a three blade 40mm left hand propeller from Harbor Models.
http://www.harbormodels.com/site08/m...s_raboesch.htm



Springer tug boat propeller size

LOL!!
Sorry Umi,
For some reason i had it in my head that you were in the UK! (guess cause hats where most great modelers are from!)
In the end it comes down preference. All the single screw vessels i know of use right hand propellers.

Cheers all, hope i didnt confuse you!

G-O

Yes, on a REAL boat, but he stated that he was using direct drive, MOST motors, turn better left handed, so you want a left handed wheel!! CaptCB

Originally Posted by CaptCB

Yes, on a REAL boat, but he stated that he was using direct drive, MOST motors, turn better left handed, so you want a left handed wheel!! CaptCB

Learn something everyday!
I didnt realize electric motors like left hand rotation better!
Thanks CaptCB

G-O

No neither did I with the cheaper motors.

I always thought that it was the direction that they ran most when bedding in the brushes that determined which way they ran best.

Most cheaper motors are zero timed , but some are timed and you never get much indication so just assume that all of them like LH better. Racing types are timed and will be quick to let you know they are not happy. Tend towards the Servo types of surplus since most are multi poled and zero timed which comes out to torque and either direction is ok with them.

As most of you know our industrial division (LMP Inc) sells well over a million motors a year from several manufactures. We have been the US rep's. for Mabuchi and Nichibo for over 60 years..
Most DC motors have a 2-4 deg advance timing. This would be for left rotation looking at the front of the motor (opposite the brush end).
For model purposes this makes no difference in the running, you may lose 1-300 rpm in reverse. IT WILL NOT damage the motor.
All motors should be broken in. This seats the brushes and laps in the bearings.
I have been using this method for almost 60 years. An old slot racer trick.
For 6-24 volt motors;
Use 2 “C” or “D” size dry cells connected for 3 volts. (I use a D size battery holder) Determine that direction that the motor will be running and use leads with clips on both ends to connect the motor. Suspend the motor in a container of water making sure the shaft dose not touch. Let run over night, when the batteries are dead wash the motor out with alcohol and re-lube the bearing with a light machine oil.
If you check the current draw before and after break in you will find that it is lower as the brushes are seated and the bearing are also.
The water dose not damage the motor, unless left in it for a week or so.
The best motors I have found for boat use are model train. Most are 5-7 pole and wound for high torque. The basic 540 motor is 3 pole and will run 14-19,000 rpm. The same size train motor is 5 or more poles give a much smoother run and a higher torque at 4-10,000 rpm. This gives you a motor that is not working as hard, so lower drain (longer run time) and longer lasting.

I'm cutting and pasting that info onto a document so i have it for later reference!
Great info Gill!

Thanks and Cheers!
G-O

Where do yo get the good motors then, Gil? I have been using the 550 5 pole motors without concern for several years now on my springer standard and mutants.
Running the motor both forward and backwards is the best way to break-in a motor..other wise you can get a burr at one end of the brushes so that when you reverse direction it can make the motor stall.... also the timing is maintained in both directions. Under water...are you kidding?These are not race motors with hardened brushes that need to be carefully broken-in or you wouldn't be able to buy them for less than $10 on the internet.
It is best to put a drop of oil on the bearing on each side of the motor now and again and clean the motor of dust etc with a good motor cleaner (meant for this purpose) every 6 months or year depending on use.
jim

Its been a while since I posted a picture of my second Springer build. I will be working on the pilot house and the smoke stack next. I will also be adding some additional detail to the lower deck....