Square Rigger kit-18 Gun Brig-of-war of 1797 - Page 11 - RC Groups
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Feb 12, 2007, 02:37 PM
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Bob, those rods are just some I have fastened to a 2x12 for a base to hold the ship while I work on it. I have noticed the same problems getting the ship on them that you mention, even though they are smooth and rounded at the top. I didn't realise it would be a problem later too. I will try to make top loading ones when I get to that point, and see how they work.
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Feb 12, 2007, 04:22 PM
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DanL's Avatar
Robert,
Threading SS rod of that dia. is a tough job. Do you have access to a lathe? Just shave off all the unwanted thread on the existing rods. Smoother surface and reduced diameter will give you the easier slide that you want. Rods will still be plenty strong to hold the ballast weight.
If no lathe, you can do a passable job with a disc grinder/sander.
Also, try permanently attaching a nut to the top of the rod. Insert from top and use the nut like a bolt head to tighten into the ballast.
Just a thought.
Thanks for the tip on top insertion. Makes sense.
Feb 12, 2007, 04:22 PM
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Last edited by Capt.Crash; Oct 09, 2008 at 09:50 AM.
Feb 13, 2007, 10:31 AM
Registered User
Ship's Wheel

I would like to spruce up the plastic rudder wheels with "brass" bands around the outer perimiter. Philip says "Do you have a lathe or a milling machine with a rotary table? The only good way of doing this (in my experience at any rate!) is to put a groove in the plastic and press brass strip into it. Foil would be too difficult to handle and fragile, paint would be an exceedingly difficult mask" It sounds like a lot more work than it would be worth. I can't even imagine cutting thin brass plates into the narrow circular strips the diameter of those wheels. Anyone have any ideas for doing it easily?
xdeckx xbuildx xfurnishingsx
Last edited by Ray C; Mar 01, 2008 at 11:24 AM.
Feb 13, 2007, 11:28 AM
Registered User
DanL's Avatar
Ray,
If you have a lathe, cut a groove of desired width into the rim, glue in a piece of brass wire with a diameter the width of the groove. Should be relatively easy to handle the brass wire - make sure it's soft wire and not hard brass rod. (You can soften it by heating) The groove should be half the depth of the wire diameter. Flat sand the face of the wheel to take off half the diameter of the wire. Polish the now flat wire face.
Feb 13, 2007, 12:17 PM
Skipper
tallastro's Avatar
Have you thought of trying a turntable/spindle approach? Not a full blown lathe to cut and inlay brass but just something to help you score a groove to take some paint. Or just apply the paint with the help of a spindle. A little practice and a steady hand should give excellent results. I used to do wheels this way and painted on whitewalls.
Feb 13, 2007, 12:53 PM
Model Designer
keven64's Avatar

...pliers that are kind to your model !


Not specifically help in painting the wheels, but...

Quote:
Hoghappy said
I could use pliers to turn them, but I need to find some that won't mess up the threads.
I cannot take a picture - as my son has my camera and he is in France, but...

I am one for modifying tools to better suit modelling purposes...

Get yourself a pair of snipe-nosed pliers and cut a couple of pieces of wood to fit onto the inside faces of the jaws.

I used hard 1/16" balsa, and used CA to attach the first piece of balsa to the first jaw, whilst holding the pliers handles-up - so that no glue can get into the hinge...
Once that was set, I used an abrasive metal strip ( I forget the trade name ) to sand the surface of the wood and so reset the angle between the wood and the other metal jaw.

Apply the other piece of wood using the same method - when set, use the abrasive metal strip again to get the wooden jaws to mate as the handles are closed...

I use my "wooden pliers" for all kinds of things where the ribbed metal jaw surfaces of pliers 'as bought' will damage the part of the model I am working on...

Did all that make sense ?

Keven.
Feb 13, 2007, 01:02 PM
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Last edited by Capt.Crash; Oct 09, 2008 at 09:50 AM.
Feb 13, 2007, 01:06 PM
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Last edited by Capt.Crash; Oct 09, 2008 at 09:51 AM.
Feb 13, 2007, 01:18 PM
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keven64's Avatar
You're welcome...

Good quality hand tools can be bought for only 1 each at the moment here in the UK - making adaptations such as that I described WELL worth the effort...
I have also a pair of 'regular' ( square nosed ? ) pliers with jaws that I have faced with 1" balsa squares - so I can hold pieces of depron fairly tightly without marking them... when making aeroplanes, usually.

Keven.
Feb 13, 2007, 01:21 PM
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Last edited by Capt.Crash; Oct 09, 2008 at 09:51 AM.
Feb 13, 2007, 06:49 PM
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Some good ideas, guys. Gives me something to ponder.
Feb 14, 2007, 10:12 PM
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DanL's Avatar

She has arrived!!


The 18 gun brig USS Syren build has started! Funny thing is that the first activity was assembling the cart! Impressive model. Amazingly well designed and complete kit.
I will likely build the ship generally following the design of the USS Syren, built in 1805 for the very new US Navy. See fantastic Syren model pics at http://gallery.drydockmodels.com/album396?page=1

Note on the flash powder smoke system: Looks really great, but after a little over 20 shots, the nichrome burned out. The igniter tubes are a pain to put together, so I'm re-thinking the approach since keeping 9 or 18 guns operable would become a job in itself. Already have some great results with fog-fluid "smoke" generator and helpful input from Philip Roberts. Will post info and pics soon.
Feb 15, 2007, 02:07 AM
Registered User
DanL's Avatar

SC&H Brig deck plugs


According to Petrejus, nails, bolts or plugs were used to attach decking. Jose Baretto, in his super-detailed, and I assume very well researched and accurate model of the USS Syren (the prototype I am trying to follow), shows deck plugs.
I did the whole deck plug pattern in one hour flat using a tool you can make in 10 minutes.
Branding, or wood-burning, was used to add the plugs. Ink, markers, etc, run in the grain and you can't really do this type of small circle pattern with them.
A one inch long piece of 1/16" copper tube was wired to the tip of a temp controlled soldering pencil. The working tip of the tube was drilled out to make the wall much thinner to burn a thin line. T was set at 800F. Each impression was burned in at a slow count to four.
Pattern followed was based on pics from Petrejus, Baretto and SC&H site.
No, I didn't count.
This model kit has tremendous possibilities...
Feb 15, 2007, 08:30 AM
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Last edited by Capt.Crash; Oct 09, 2008 at 09:51 AM.


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