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May 24, 2008, 06:57 PM
Paratrooper
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Well I found out why my rudder chain was jumping the sprocket--the duffus at the Lee Kee Ship yard failed to seat the rudder servo in the tray and it was higher toward the bow than it should have been. Since he had been sacked a long time back, it was fixed by another worker and this time they got it right.

Regarding nylon line, Rit dye, sun light, water, and wind--it sure faded fast. All of my gun rigging is back to white. Next time, Floquil paint.


Brooks. Thanks for the input but to be honest I really enjoy these guys, I just do not want to be a duffus like those guys at the Lee Kee Shipyard. It is my intent to not abuse this thread in any way, and I just want people to be comfortable with what I am posting. I really don't have much of an interest of being by myself on one of these, I have thoroughly enjoyed everyone who has participated and allowing me to even be a part of this thing. As for the deployable buoy--I am seriously looking into some options as the lake we were on today is 80 feet deep. It is a new lake having been formed with a dam at Clear Creek in central KY. I think it is marvelous with not such high hills and canyons as on other KY lakes built with dams. In fact, there are very few natural lakes in this state, most are creeks and rivers that have had dams installed to prevent flooding and excessive run off as well as hydro power on the TVA rivers.

I am also seriously looking for a bilge pump for the minor moisture problems I am having.

Ya'll have a good day

Brooks, thank you. I have a hobby dealer looking into this very pump. I appreciate the help. RG
Last edited by Paratrooper; May 24, 2008 at 08:21 PM.
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May 24, 2008, 07:01 PM
Damp and Dizzy member
Brooks's Avatar
re chain cog jumping - On aircraft, the control wires run over pullys that have a "keeper" to keep the wire from jumping out of the pully. Could you make some sort of close-fitting cap to enshroud the chain and keep it from popping off the cog?
====================
RC bilge pump source (I have not bought one, just know of the webpage)

"RAM 45 BOAT SAVER WITH PUMP.
Our RAM 44 bilge water sensor is attached to a small pump so that the warning light signals you of water in the boat while the pump removes it."

RAM 45 Boat Saver w/Bilge Pump 6 - 12V senses water, turns on light & pump $29.95

http://www.ramrcandramtrack.com/rcfails.html
Last edited by Brooks; May 24, 2008 at 07:09 PM.
May 25, 2008, 12:41 AM
Registered User

Newcomer


Hi there,
I just thought I would introduce myself. I am Neil, or you can call me Fleur if you like, living down under in New Zealand. I have just purchased the Grasshopper Brig C027 and I'm currently awaiting delivery.
You could probably say I'm a novice modeller. I've always enjoyed building models but haven't made anything for many years apart fom painting and converting Warhammer soldiers. I did make some radio controlled power boats back in my teens and 20s (I'm now 51) and even had a go at making a clipper ship from scratch but soon gave up. I think girls became more interesting at the time.
It has always been my ambition to build an R/C square rigger since being a teenager so I've taken the plunge, increased the mortgage and gone for it. I hope I haven't taken on too much - reading your reports there seem to be some tricky obstacles to overcome. Still, the challenges make it all the more satisfying I think when you make something that works.
We have a great small lake within 5 minutes drive and there is an active R/C yacht club there which I have walked past with the dog many a Sunday morning. So I should be able to join up later when we are getting close to sailing stage.
This thread is really helpful, it is great to see the support everbody is giving to each other on the construction of these models. Hopefully I can contribute all my successes and failures too.
May 25, 2008, 01:05 AM
Registered User
Wellcome aboard Neil, I have 026,the Rita Jean. You will really enjoy building this ship.
looking forward to your posts.
Fred
May 25, 2008, 03:25 AM
Registered User
DanL's Avatar

Comments on water in hull


Ray-
1. Bilge pump: No. Leaky hatch? Use the foam tape I emailed you about. You dont want to keep getting water in the hull, bilge pump or not.

2. Marker buoy aboard. Yep, but 80 ft is a deep dive, and light and vis are low. You would need an experienced advanced diver for recovery. It's not just pulling it up by a line. To get it out of any soft bottom and to the surface with minimal damage will actually be quite an operation. Expecting 80ft of untangled marker line is too much. Sooo....prevent sinking! Actuallly, with an attached, soundly sealed hatch, it would be very difficult to sink an SC&H brig. Surprise is likely the same. You would see a list or signs of taking on water in plenty of time to stabilze and ground her.

3. Would be great for all if you stay on this thread - it's all common SC&H stuff, and a great central location. Also, it shows up in Google searches. Sheeeooot - over 100 pages and 75,000 plus hits, how can you miss it. I love your pics and work reports. I hate your sailing reports cuz I'm insanely jealous....
Greet the photographer/sailmaker for me.

4. Rit dye fade - OH NO, I used it everywhere. Sorry I suggested it.
May 25, 2008, 06:56 AM
Paratrooper
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G'day Neil, you will have a great time with this kit. They are a pleasure to build. Welcome to the mob. RG
May 25, 2008, 08:59 AM
Paratrooper
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DanL: I have been looking at the photo you posted regarding the sealing foam you mention, and it looks like it is above the white seal is in the hatch well and you are sealing your hatch cover to the top of that. I built mine according to the SC&H instructions noted here:

1) Glue in the ABS mechanical hatch well with isocyanacrylate to the underside of the fore part of the maindeck. Make sure that this is a good bond and lines up with the fiberglass deck. If you can pull it off it was not good enough. {.5 hrs}
2) Support the mechanical hatch back seal in the well with spacers of equal height, so that it rests just proud of the surrounding wall. Glue the mechanical hatch to the back seal with isocyanacrylate. {.5 hrs}


In use this hatch may be made quite watertight by smearing a little Vaseline on the back and seal where it rubs against the wall of the hatch well.

I have the seal glued to the hatch cover and it appears that you are resting yours on the seal. Is that assumption correct?

Here are a couple of photos showing how mine is assembled. The seal is actually down in the well and it is intended that Vaseline be the material to make the joint water tight. I do not know if I did something wrong with mine but I am getting some water in through the hatch. The well always has water in it when I remove the hatch and I assume that some is getting into the hull once the level of the water reaches the lip of the well.

I am really not worried about the ship sinking due to this minor problem, but I would like to keep the hull dry if possible.

Now that I have tasted sailing in a decent breeze I am thinking it is not a challenge to be a fair weather sailer with winds only sufficient to move the ship. I want to SAIL her. RG
Last edited by Paratrooper; May 25, 2008 at 10:54 AM.
May 25, 2008, 09:20 AM
Registered User
DanL's Avatar

Duhhhh...


Ray,
I feel dumber than dirt. In all this time, I thought the white frame was meant to be the machined face that the hatch mated to. After your comment, I see now how it's supposed to work. Whew, minus 10 points on my mechanical aptitude.
Then again, my hatch is EZ on/Ez off and doesn't leak (yet). Go figure...

Ah, but the way you did it - the right way - this might work: Clean off all the vaseline. Lay a strip of the clay-like caulking strip that is sold for weatherstripping cracks into the bottom of the well so that the white frame compresses on it. It's about a 3/16" dia, brown strip sold in a coil. It has the consistency of modelling clay and will deform to fit against the white frame.
That should seal the hatch.
May 25, 2008, 09:36 AM
Registered User
PT, I think this is the right place for all the pictures you want to post! I would certainly miss them. We have to keep this thread alive now that many of us are into the sailing phase. I think it is great that so many new owners are participating here.

Ooops, I used a lot of Ritz dye too. Live and learn. Will try the foam tape on my hatch. Will put it down in the slot where it is protected.
May 25, 2008, 11:01 AM
**NOT GUILTY**
Capt.Crash's Avatar
...
Last edited by Capt.Crash; Oct 09, 2008 at 09:36 AM.
May 25, 2008, 11:41 AM
Paratrooper
Paratrooper's Avatar
Capt'n Crash...I appreciate the input. I am going to try a different method of sealing the hatch cover. I may have done something during the build that is causing the leak but it did not show up during my last water test so I am not sure what it is. I will keep looking. RG

Thank you on the photos concerns.
May 25, 2008, 12:25 PM
Registered User
Philip @ SCH's Avatar

Mechanical Hatch sealing


Just to make sure everybody is clear on the sealing surface of the mechanical hatch, I have sketched the accompanying diagram.
The well forms no part of the seal but is a gutter that stops water running straight in if the seal is breached or if you take the hatch off.
May 25, 2008, 12:29 PM
Registered User
beneteau3's Avatar
Hey Fleur, welcome to the fleet! Always great to have new participants in this building thread. I don't think you need to be concerned about your ability to successfully complete your ship. This kit has obviously been well designed to give us "regular guys" a super R/C ship that does not require years of sophisticated modeling experience and a full blown engineering shop to build.

Many of the "problems" you see on this thread are really not that serious - We just all like to discuss things. I must admit this R/C Groups build thread has been alot of fun, and a great source of ideas. Following the SC&H instructions and mixing in some common sense logic will easily give you a very satisfying build experience.

My C.022 brig build was a new adventure for me, too. I had not built anything for years, and had never undertaken any hobby project of this magnitude. I do not have any designated "shop" setup with shelves of sophisticated tools, either. But I am very satisfied with this build experience, and extremely pleased with the results. I sure learned alot, and am still learning, as I begin the R/C sailing, now that the ice has moved off the lakes. I am still having a wonderful time with this brig, and have never regretted it's purchase.
Last edited by beneteau3; May 25, 2008 at 12:39 PM.
May 25, 2008, 12:38 PM
Registered User
Philip @ SCH's Avatar

RIT dye


RIT dye does fade with exposure to UV (sunlight), but not that quickly. If it "fades" quickly, it is not fading but coming off. The problem is one of penetration of the material you are dyeing. I quote from the RIT instructions:
Quote:
Add 1 cup salt (per 2 lbs dry fabric/ 8 fl oz liquid dye) to dyebath for cotton, rayon, ramie, linen or blends. Polyester or acrylic blends dye lighter. Not recommended for 100% polyester, acrylic or fabric with special finishes...
So, with RIT, a hot water/acid combination dye, choose a material that is dyeable and wash (as well as dye) in very hot water.
Nylon will dye better with simple acid dyes (available from Amazon.com), but coatings will prevent dyeing.
See this clear and well-organized website for everything you could want to know about had dyeing: http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/FAQ/rit-tie-dye.shtml
Last edited by Philip @ SCH; May 25, 2008 at 04:15 PM. Reason: more information
May 25, 2008, 01:21 PM
Registered User
Philip @ SCH's Avatar

Heeling and its effects on sailing


As Brooks has pointed out in a previous post (#1500) sailing with too large a press of sail is not a good idea at all.
1. The form of the hull that is below the waterline has changed - it has become vastly inferior in terms of the correct shape to push through the water.
2. The rudder (as mentioned by Brooks) loses a lot of its effectiveness as its axis inclines and tends to try to push the ship up or down rather than side to side.
3. The lower sails are closer to the water and partly obscured by the heeled hull - their wind is "muddied".
4. The keel and ballast keel, being so much inclined, have less resistance to the effects of windage on the whole ship so she slides sideways, downwind, and you cannot make course.
5. You ship water through gunports which drags on the ship and exposes the deck penetrations to inundation and additional risk.

All these factors reduce control. The sails when set on masts so heeled are spilling the wind that hits them instead of using it. You should try to set an amount of sail that will limit her maximum heel to 20 and will balance the wind pressure fore and aft so she does not require much helm.
Last edited by Philip @ SCH; May 25, 2008 at 03:54 PM. Reason: clarity


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