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May 12, 2006, 05:11 PM
Not THAT Ira
Real Ira's Avatar
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" The Shot Getter " SBP Build

This bird has worked out so well I can't help but share.

The original version was quite costly and time consuming to build so I've worked hard to address those two issues and am finaly there.

Here are some basic specs:
  • Span" 60 or 64 in. two piece 10.5 in chord, foam core.
  • Length: 42 in. with removable tail installed.
  • AUW: Full load w down link and camera ( Nikon 7600 ) 46 oz.
  • Power: AXI 2808/24, Jeti 30 amp, TP 2100 Lipo.
  • Fuselage Construction: Foam sandwich.
Flight Profile
This aircraft was intended to be flown very slowly and has been proven to fly well in winds up to 15 mph.
Stall is straight ahead and at about 3-5 mph depending on effective wingload.
T.O. roll is about 12 ft with Max. load and climb out is about 30 degrees to 400 ft AGL in about 1 min.
When trimmed for a floating glide path while shooting pictures, the aircraft will thermal with ease.
Landing is slow and easy but crosswind landing is not recomended.

I'll try to post about a bit of the build that can be reasonably managed on a day-by-day basis.

Construction Materials:
  • One 2"x21"x71" block of pink or blue foam.
  • Two 2"x10 1/2" x 30" (or 32" depending on wether you want the 60 or 64 in span) blocks of pink or blue foam.
  • Three 5/16 carbon arrows of very high quality and six of the threaded inserts that fit them.
  • Length of 5/16 very high quality music wire.
  • One Aluminum arrow that is a sliding fit over the carbon one.
  • Two 3/16" thick sheets of balsa for tail feathers, ( unless you wish to use other materials).
  • Plastic sleeve type pushrods and 2 mm or larger diameter carbon rod for pushrods.
  • One quality carbon L.G.
  • Two 2 1/2" or larger lite foam wheels.
  • One 1" or larger lite foam tail wheel.
  • Two rolls of Polycover or it's equivilant.
  • Two-pieces of 3/32" lite ply or 3/16" Luan(also knowen as doorskin).
Additional Building Supplies:
  • 5 minute epoxy.
  • Polyurethane glue.
  • Squeeze bottle of micro balloons.
  • CA glue, thin and medium.
  • Assorted hardware,screws 4/40 thread stock, control horns ect....
  • Radio,servos yada, yada, yada, bla, bla, bla

Lets start with the fuselage.
  • Take the 2 in thick block of foam and cut to 21 in long by 6 7/16 tall, a table saw or band saw works best.
  • Lay on it's side and mark the top & bottom T & B respectivly. A fine point sharpie marker works well for this.
  • Mark the edge to your left F and the edge to your right R.
  • Measure 11 1/2 from edge R and make a line from edge T to edge B at this point. Lable this line Datum V.
  • Measure 1 3/4 down from edge T and make a line from edge F to edge R at this point. Lable this line Datum H.
  • Make a line 3/32 up from edge B that extends in the direction of edge F for 4 1/2/ in. Make a dot at the end of this line closest to F and lable it L.G. then shade the area between this line and edge B.
  • Mark a point on edge R 5/8 in. down from edge T.
  • Draw a line from the point you just made on edge R to the intersecting point of Datum V and edge T. Shade the area between this line and edge T and lable the line A.I.
  • Mark a point on edge T 1/4 in. from edge R.
  • Draw a line from the point where Datum H touches edge R to the point you just made on edge T. Shade the small area between this line and edge R and lable the line TA, (no jokes please).
  • Mark a point on AI 6 3/4 from where it contacts TA and mark it CG.
  • Mark a line across the block at CG from edge T to edge B keeping it 90 degrees and square and lable this line CGR.
  • Measure 3 1/2 in. from CGR in the direction of F and mark a point.
  • Measure 3 1/2 in. from CGR in the direction of R and mark a point.
  • Using a square on edge B draw a line from edge B through these points till they contact Datum H. Label the line closest to F CBF and the line closest to R as CBR.

Got to go to work now
Will try to post more tomrrow.
Any questions so far let me know.
Here is a pic of a little bit further along than we are here.
Last edited by RMihara; May 18, 2006 at 03:51 PM.
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May 12, 2006, 09:47 PM
Registered User
two-hill's Avatar
Great start, Ira. Looking forward to this. I'd better get the 'pie finished.

May 12, 2006, 10:18 PM
nakelp86's Avatar
If I only had time to finish my pink Mpie clone :-(
May 12, 2006, 11:39 PM
Not THAT Ira
Real Ira's Avatar
Thread OP
Hi Fellas,
Please not the materials list has been updated as I left out the wing spars and foam.
May 13, 2006, 12:45 AM
Not THAT Ira
Real Ira's Avatar
Thread OP
O.K. where was I?

Mark a point on edge B 1 inch from edge R.

Mark a point 2 1/8 from where Datum H contacts CBR.

Join these last two points and label them TBB.

Mark a point 2 1/8 from the intersection of Datum H and CBF then mark another at 1 3/8.

Mark a point 1 3/8 from the intersection of Datum H and CBR.

There should be two points 3/4 in apart on lines CBF and CBR. On CBF make a line parellel to it between these two point 3/32 in away on the side closest to edge F.

Do the same on CBR on the side closest to edge R.

Shade the area between these parallel lines on CBF and CBR.

Draw a line from point LG to the intersection of lines AI, Datum V and edge T.

Lightly shade the area between CBF and CBR that falls below Datum H. Also shade the small triangle formed by TBB, CBR and edge B.

Stand Foam block on edge T and using a square mark lines across edge/side B at points LG, Datum V and intersection of TBB and B. Label them LGB, Datum VB and TBBB.

Note: the next step is very critical to tail boom alignment.
Find the middle of LGB and TBBB and mark them with a point.

Using these points on LGB and TBBB mark a line the length of side B down it's center and label it TB.

Draw a line 1 1/2 in from side F from side T to Side B. Do this on both sides of the foam block and label them FR.

Transfer a line across side T at the point of intersection of Datum V and AI.

Mark a point on line FR that is 3 in. from side/edge B. Do this on both sides of the foam block.

We will now draw two line from this point, one to point LG and another to the point of intersection of Datum V and AI. Do this on both sides of the foam block.

Without getting too close to these lines and using the photographes in the first post as a rough guidedraw a curved line that will form the profile of the nose of the aircraft. Be sure the curve contacts edge F at some point as this will be important to acheaving proper C. G. later. Don't get pointy keep it nice and round, ya know sort of phallic.
Here is a pic to help.
Will post more tomrrow.
May 13, 2006, 05:31 AM
Registered User
Griffo's Avatar
This is great Ira, really looking forward to this thread
Keep the updates com'n!
May 13, 2006, 12:12 PM
Not THAT Ira
Real Ira's Avatar
Thread OP

Coupeville High School& Middle School

Flew a" Shot Getter " sorty early this morning and got this shot in addition to the $hot I was after.
Think I'll post the $hot in the geo contest just for kicks as kind of a mental tease.
Will post more instructions in a bit.
May 13, 2006, 01:22 PM
Not THAT Ira
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Thread OP
O.K. here we go again,
Mark a line 3/16 in to each side of TB that extends from side F to side R.

Mark a line across side R that is 3/32 up from side B, now mark a point at the EXACT middle of this line.

Now butt your boom end on so one edge touches this line/point and mark a point on the opposite side of the boom farthest from side B. Here is a pic to help.
May 13, 2006, 01:43 PM
Not THAT Ira
Real Ira's Avatar
Thread OP
Now mesure the distance from the point you just made to side/edge B.
This is the depth of the channel you will need to cut for the boom to lay in.

Note: The consistent depth and straightness of this channel will be VERY important to the outcome of this project, the use of a table saw or router table is highly recomended.

Using the tool you select remove the material between the lines to ether side of TB to the depth of the last measurement taken on side R. If using a table saw be sure you are measure the distance from the fence to the proper side of the blade and have a good look at it end on before you cut. Please don't ask why I caution you about this. :O
If needed move the fence and take a couple of passes to clear out the channel for the boom.
If using a router table be sure the bit used is the correct size and the fence/ guide is set the correct distance so the bit is centered on TB or use a smaller bit and adjust for the number of passes required to clear the boom channel.

If doing this by hand with a hobbie knife or other impliment take a lot of time, great care and good luck.

The cut channel can be seen in the pic a couple posts back that shows the nose outline.

Back soon with more.
Here is another pic from this mornings sorty.
May 13, 2006, 03:16 PM
Not THAT Ira
Real Ira's Avatar
Thread OP
Back Again,
Next with great care cut away the shaded areas of the foam block.
The prefered tool is a band saw. If you must use a hacksaw blade or bread knife or some other crude impliment I suggest you mark and shade the areas on the opposite side of the block to mirror the side already marked to help guide your efforts.

Here is a pic of the block after the proper areas have been cut away.
May 13, 2006, 03:24 PM
Not THAT Ira
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Thread OP
O.K. now cut a piece of 3/32 ply measuring 2x3 1/2 in and another piece1x2 in.

Note the line from point LG to intersection of AI/Datum V. Shade everything on this side of the block between this line and side/edge R.

Will be back ASAP,
May 13, 2006, 05:12 PM
Not THAT Ira
Real Ira's Avatar
Thread OP
Lets pick it back up,
Cut two pices of 3/32 ply measuring 3/4 x 2 in.

Find the centers of these pieces and drill them for 4-40 blind nuts or any other size of your choosing,( these will hold and support the camera mount ).

Off to the gulag.
Will post more ASAP.
Also if anyone does this build and gets stumped anywhere just drop me a PM and I'll do whatever I can to help out.
Were almost done with the boring geometry part and get to start slapping on some glue soon!

Last edited by Real Ira; May 13, 2006 at 05:22 PM.
May 14, 2006, 12:12 PM
Not THAT Ira
Real Ira's Avatar
Thread OP

Penn Cove Mussel Rafts

Flew another sorty with the easy "Shot Getter" early this morning.
This pic is the western side of the town of Coupeville Whidbey Island Washington.
The things in the water in the background are rafts from which lines are hung for Mussels to grow on. These are flown all over the world for your dinning pleasure and steamed in white wine with garlic and herb butter they are to die for.
A friend actualy ordered them at a fine eatery in Sidney down under.
Good sorty, 21 shots 14 keepers.
Will try to post more on the build later this evening but today is too nice to sit on my rump in front of the computer so I'm going flying.

May 14, 2006, 02:05 PM
Registered User
I really like this version of your SG... I believe when I purchase my next camera this will be the build I will do.

Wonderful photos!

That Nikon 7600 is doing a really nice job. Are you shooting in Sports Mode and with a servo trigger?

May 14, 2006, 06:14 PM
Not THAT Ira
Real Ira's Avatar
Thread OP

Nikon 7600

Hey Rud,
To be honest I'm a tiny bit dissapointed with the 7600 and wish i had gone for the 7900 for the better lens.
For close in shots,(300 yds or less) it's great but long distance just does'nt cut the mustard and there is a lot of "background" here that is a shame to not take full advantage of.
Ritz Camera offers a smashed camera warrenty "no questions asked" but the camera can show no modifications. Check the camera trigger thread to see what I came up with. It's cheap, lite and has never failed to work.
Bet if Ritz knew what I am using this camera for they would themselfs.
So long as I'm here may as well post the next steps.

Cut two pices of nylon packing banding 1/2 in. recomended at 10 in. long and 2 more at 6 in. long.
( Sorry this was'nt on the materials list). It can be had for free from any loading dock in the trash. Just ask and endure the funny looks.
Also available at any shipping service.

Sand them on booth sides to remove the shine and wipe down with denatured alcohol.

Got to run the babys hollering and being Mother's day I'm on duty
Will post more soon and here is a pic shot about 45 min. ago.
City of Oak Harbor viewed from 300 yds off shore of Snaklum Pt. on Whidbey Island Wa. The Getter's second trip out over the drink. Just for grins I may wear a heart rate monitor next time I do this

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