Hi my name is jonny and i have recently brought a wingrush and i have noticed that the run time is too short. I realised i have 2 options 1. get a bigger battery. 2. water cool the motors. I know all you more expierienced boaters are out there thinking why the hell would he even buy a wingrush. The answer is simple i just really enjoy the boat so my querie is simple does anyone have any suuggestions of how to water cool the motors? thanks in advance jonny.s

come on guys i can see that 13 people have seen this and at least one of yous must know PLEASE i really am DESPERATE

Water cooling probably won't give you a noticeable increase in run time. The battery pack that comes with the boat is said to be a 1700 mAh 7.2 volts NiCad unit. I would check around for prices but the recently standard racing size 3300 mAh cells have come down a lot in price and should give you almost twice the run time.

hi i put an 8.4v 2400mah in mine then speed 400 motors it was quite quick then i put a 9.6 3300mah in it , it was mental (uncontrolable with the vector steering).
i now have an .18 nitro motor in it and i think its a superb hull for the money cheers pete

thanks i have considered this and i have realised that water cooling it was probably a bit stupid but my older brother reckons that the extra amps will burn the motors out will it?

Assuming you're still going to be running on 6 cells the only difference in amps would be down to what a better battery pack would push out compared with the current pack. It's likely to be minimal anyway.Doing as Pete es did and increasing to 8 cells will definately make water cooling essantial.
The general advice for making these bigger "toy" boats move is to strip out the motors and drive units, swap a 700 type motor on 12 cells and driving a single prop. But that's going to take it well outside its design envelope and may make handling very unpredictable.

Doubling the runtime will most certainly heat up the motors, if they are hot to the touch with the 1700mAh, using a higher mAh pack will make watercooling a must.
Frequently overheating a motor will cause loss of the magnetic fieldstrength, reducing the power.

This hull will perform great with a 700 motor, flexshaft with strut (surface drive), seperate rudder, a regular RC set and 12-14 cells with a matching ESC.

Regards, Jan.

A couple of friends have wingrushes.
I modified this one to run 2 sp400 with advanced timing (one retarded of course) on 7cell GP3300. The motor mounts had to be replaced to allow for the cooling coils. It was a bit of work but worth it, runs great and reliable.
The next one to be modified will have a single 550.

I've seen one fitted with a 700 on 16cells and was quite fast but way too heavy and hard to control.

Just replacing the 1700 batt with a GP 3300 6cell makes the motors too hot to touch.

thanks for the help can any of tell me where to get cooling coils for the motors and if no-one makes them can someone give some pointers on how to make them

Hi Jonny,

Take a piece of aluminum tubing, 4mm outside diameter (for a 400 motor), close one end by squeezing it flat (not my favourite) or taping it shut.

Fill the tube with salt (or fine sand), tapping it until the tube is filled solid, close the open end.

Find an round object slightly smaller than your motor and wind the aluminum tubing around that, smoothly without dents and warping.

Slide the coil off and open up both ends, if you've used salt, you can rinse it clean in lukewarm water, if you used sand, tap it out, while turning the coil around.
Turn and squeeze the coil onto the motor can.
For better heat conduct, use heat conductive past between the coil and the can, cover the coil with a piece of shrinking tube, which presses the coil onto the can and covers the (toxic) heat conducting paste.

Voilá, one cooling coil.

For "normal" use these coils will do, if you really need / want to keep the can cool, look at the Tips & Info section on Offshoreelectrics for the 'non-plus-ultra' in can cooling ( www.offshoreelectrics.com )

Regards, Jan.