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Old Apr 18, 2006, 11:45 PM
Sparky Paul is offline
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I keep telling myself NO MORE PLANES... but I don't listen!
I cut the forward servo mount off, and ginned up a mount for the aft servo.
The next one would have that servo probably close to where the pushrod comes thru the support, to get some room for the ESC, which has wires -just- long enough to reach the wires from the motor.
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Old Apr 19, 2006, 06:05 AM
jcfetterly is offline
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[QUOTE=sierra-gold]
Is the order of components starting at the chopped off nose - motor - battery pack - ESC - receiver - servos?


Sierra,
I thought it would need more weight in the nose than it did. I put the 65HB's inline under the CG. Planned on the Electron 6, controller and 4oz battery under the canopy and LE to balance it. It turned out it nose-heavy. I had to stuff the receiver under the cables behind the servos and push the battery back to balance it. No lead. There is enough room under the canopy for a small pilot. I'll take pictures tonight of the way not to do it and mark them up with the way I will do it next. I said in #30 I was impressed with the quality. I mean the quality for $89. The wing and pod are great. The boom looks weak near the stab as they discuss in other threads. I expect that is where it will break in a less than perfect landing. The same thing happened to my HL Fling. A tapered, wrapped carbon tube or carbon arrow shaft will be ready to replace it in the future.
Old Apr 19, 2006, 06:20 AM
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Sierra,
BTW, my eyes are getting old to. The fling has a 3-4" bright red diagonal stripe on the bottom of each wing that really helps in tracking the thing. I can tell which way is up. All future planes will have the same thing installed before I fly.
Old Apr 19, 2006, 07:32 AM
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I suggest thread wraps (~6 turns) in CA or epoxy just before the fin and near the aft end of the boom (more ~6 turns).

Also wrap the boom just before the plastic control tube exiting the boom.

The holes in the boom are weakness spots.
Last edited by Ollie; Apr 19, 2006 at 08:16 AM.
Old Apr 19, 2006, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ollie
I suggest thread wraps (~6 turns) in CA or epoxy just before the fin and near the aft end of the boom (more ~6 turns).

Also wrap the boom just before the plastic control tube exiting the boom.

The holes in the boom are weakness spots.
Good idea Ollie, I'll do it before I fly the next time(should be flying now, a great Michigan spring afternoon). Probably wrap it from ahead of the snake outlets to the end of the boom. A little thread on the stab mounting surface won't hurt. Even 50 turns won't add noticable weight. Thanks
Old Apr 19, 2006, 10:10 PM
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The Santa Anas died enough to get my Fling in the air.. It appears the suggested c.g. is right about at the aft limit.
Dive test with a windmilling prop was just on the stable side. With a braked prop, neutral.
Old Apr 21, 2006, 06:55 PM
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How not to do it


I cut the nose off with THAR down and right thrust. It works well, little pitch change from power on to off. Trimmed an aluminum motor mount till it fit snug when pushed from the inside. Epoxy it in place. Put a balsa bulkhead behind the AXI 2212-34 to keep everything away from the spinning case. Put the servos inline under the wing. I planned on the 2 cell 1800 Lipo under the canopy with receiver behind it and ahead of the servos. NOSE HEAVY!!! I had to stuff the receiver behind the servos and push the battery against them to balance. All I have is the controller under the canopy now. I use Blue-Cor against the balsa motor bulkhead and the battery to hold it in place. Would be better to put the battery under the wing, Servos under the back of the canopy, receiver ahead or behind the servos as required. The rear air outlet holes are just ahead of a ply former to minimize loss of strength.
Old Apr 23, 2006, 12:26 AM
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Great thread guys. Sounds like a fun plane.
Old May 03, 2006, 01:35 PM
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For those of you who have not chopped the nose off , is the CG really that far back - as per the instructions?
I'm used to CGs being on or at least near the spar. The instructions put the CG a bit further back than I would have expected.
So, has anyone flown it with the recommended CG?

Thanks,


Mitch
Old May 03, 2006, 02:05 PM
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Mine is about 3/4" ahead of that.. after fixing the washin on the left tip, it's much more reluctant to tip-stall out of left turns than it was.
Old May 03, 2006, 05:07 PM
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An 1800mAh seems like a huge battery for this application. I'd think a 600 would give you good duration, faster climb, and wing loading acceptable for thermaling. That is unless you live in the desert or something. How has it worked out for you?
Old May 04, 2006, 09:06 PM
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Whorges,
The 1800 is large but what I had. the 2 cell only weighs 4.5 oz. It's a bit underpowered but I've put a 13-8 on it and will try it this weekend. It now draws the 8 amps the motor calls for instead of 6 with the smaller prop. I'm new at this and experimenting. Besides, I never do anything by the book.
Old May 12, 2006, 10:47 AM
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Any updates on the Fling 2M as regards durability from the "had it for a while crowd"?


R/E
Old May 12, 2006, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rud-elev
Any updates on the Fling 2M as regards durability from the "had it for a while crowd"?


R/E

Stuffed mine nose first into the asphalt on a bunged up hand catch attempt.Split the nose on the seam but came out better than expected for a 5 foot drop .Also built mine with a two piece wing and no damage that I could see at the spar/wing joiner from the nose first ground attack

HTH

Steve
Old May 12, 2006, 04:40 PM
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Sorry to hear about that.

Probably not a "normal wear and tear event."

I found that with my Ascent, a piece of kevlar fabric epoxied into the bottom of the nose in the high impact area helped with the fuse.

I'm still deciding on whether to purchase a 2M Fling or not.

Thanks for the update.

R/E


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