This is mine: wing construction in 3 mm white and red depron, spare in 6 mm.
Not yet finished. Maybe next weekend the maiden flight.
Brushless Cd-rom 1500kV, gunther prop, 2 micro servos, 340 mAh 3s Lipo.

Do you have any information about the winglets dimensions (minimal width and height) ?

SVs Belgium

My Winglets are between 4 and 5" in height, as far as width, they run from the leading edge of the wingtip all the way back to the trailing edge of the elevon. One thing that helps is to mount them so that the bottom of the winglet is below the wing by about an inch. That will give it more stability in banking turns.

Yours looks pretty clean. I haven't tried the depron, but I bet you'll end up with a very light wing, which I assume is what you are going for with the small battery.

Did you get it to balance ok with that setup?

In the middle of building my first wing (ZagNutz) when I saw this thread. Thought I would make one of these out of the scraps since I have all the gear.

Two questions: 1) Is the airfoil symmetrical or do you try and get it semi-symmetrical (hard to see in the photos)? 2)Is there any advantage in removing the paper from the BlueCor before taping?

This is my first time building with foam (had a Cox Sportavia in the early 70's).

Thanks,

Wayne

Good stuff, you'll find that this wing has a very high fun factor. Try to build it straight as you can.

As far as airfoil, I don't worry about it much. The airfoil will kind of form itself as you pull the plates together for taping. It should end up being symmetrical or darn close to it. I usually take the two wing halves and give them a quick visual to see which side has the higher hump, and use that side for the top. If it looks about right, it probably is.

I always leave the skin on the blucor, it seems to give it some strength and will cause no problems. Sometimes some will peel off on it's own during the build process but I try to minimize that.

I'm thinking about making a smaller scaled down version for kicks....if it works out and I have time, I'll post it.

Scott

I usually score the top wing on the inside with the tip of a screwdriver over the spar so it curves and the bottom stays flat. I also have a couple of ribs that also probably keep the bottom flat, although I originally put them in to maintain the top curve. I might try a symetrical wing next time.
One other thing I did different was to make the bottom of the wing as one piece, and the top as two pieces. I have nylon reinforced tape on the leading edges. I also criss crossed the wing with 2 strips of tape on the top and bottom. This makes a really stiff wing.
By the way I also want to thank Daydreamer for the design. I have built several scratch wings and this is one of the most stable I have flown, plus it has room to bury all the components.

the wing holds a symetrical shape for the most part.But as Scottflight said if one side raises up further thats the top. BTW I fly here in the area also at the northglenn open space. I've flown here for quite a few years it's really nice lots of area to play and no whiners just lots of great spectators. Who are very curious about what we do.

Hey Daydreamer I thought this wing looked familiar , I still have mines but think I need to build another one. I've had one too many dates with Mother Earth and I don't think she was too happy

I know what you mean. I now glue BBQ skweres to the leading edge, and tape over them with zagi tape. makes it rigid bounces off the ground. It breaks your motor mount before it snaps the wing.

Not a bad idea, and cheap too. This is still one of the best gliding wings I've flown. Might give it one more chance before I move the motor to the new wing. You did good on this design Daydreamer, a winner.

Psst I've already built the new wing, don't tell the old one.

your secret's safe with me

Wanted to say thanks for the replies to my prior query on the airfoil shape.

I had a huge problem getting the bevel on the TE. I practiced using every knife blade I had and could not get anything that came close to an even cut. Finally tried a serated bread knife using a temporary jig...BINGO, clean and straight. 1st pic shows the jig, a piece of piano wire taped down at the TE for the correct thickness and a straight edge inboard to get the correct angle (practice on scrap). 2nd pic shows the knife doing it's thing. Keep a little thumb pressure on the foam about an inch in front of the blade to keep the foam from lifting. 3rd pic shows the final result.

Bread knife is now located in the hobby room.

Wayne

Boy do I have a hint for you..... I use a vibrating sander like a palm sander, and you have alll kinds of control over how much taper you get. I also use it on the leading edge. It cuts real slow so you can controll the taper. The only downside is that it makes lots of dust that sticks to EVERYTHING. When I tape everything together I can control the thickness. Looks great!!!!

Great ideas guys, I'm going to have to sneak the bread knife downstairs now.

By they way, I tried out a smaller version of this same wing....just took the dimensions down by 25%. I used a 3 cell 500 with a 15 turn cdrom and the same 5x5 prop. It worked pretty well. Very peppy. I think it's not really stable because I'm not straight like I should be, but that can be remedied int he next build. It does have great acceleration and is faster. Pretty fun if you have the desire to go smaller....

S

Here is a set of new cores I just cut this morning. Every thing taken from all my blue core drawings. Just hope it flies the same

is that EPP or EPS?