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Discussion
Fliton Jumping Jack
There must be a ton of these out there, but I have not heard much about them in a while. I flew mine today after a spell in the hangar and had forgotten what a great flying plane this is. Hacker A20-20L, TP1320 Prolite - 22oz.
Looks like e-flightline.com is offering one that looks just like it - the Blender. I would love to hear some other flight reports. |
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I find it interesting. This is one of the better flying planes in my hangar but I hear very little about it. I know that at $150 the desire to purchase was limited. But now at $99 these are gonna sell like hotcakes. It makes the Katana Mini, Mini Funtana, Mini Edge 540 and others look like slugs.
Check these killer videos: http://www.e-flightline.com/movies/3D%20blender.wmv http://www.fliton.com/new_english/movie/test.wmv http://www.fliton.com/new_english/movie/JJstent.wmv http://www.fliton.com/new_english/movie/new_jj.wmv |
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Hey all I am going to get one of these JJs what is a decent motor and esc? I am a beginner/intermediate. I can fly all the 3D planes in th simulator but this is going to be my first aerobatic plane. For the most part I loved the look of it, the finish on it, the excelent reviews for it. I decided to get one now. I am pretty much going to practice on it. I want to spend as less money on the motor and esc for now as I can. I can buy used motor and esc too if you have or know any. I will be using 3cell 2100 bat. on it. Please help
Thanks alot Deniz |
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Quote:
My neighbor bought 2 0f the Blenders. Identical to my JJ. Only$60. Ouch. |
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im thinking about getting another jj from Horizon hobby now that they have em. this plane was sweet until i did an inverted dive into earth! definately still one of my fav's. i had mine powered with the hacker b20:18L but i imagine something like a hacker A20:20L or a30:28s (maybe a bit much) will do the tirck. 11x4.7 would be the wya to go or 10x5.5.
just double up (sandwich style) on the main spar and use a LOT of 30min. epoxy on the main wings ... trust me, it'll be worth the extra mod. i always put epoxy on both wood surfaces being joined to make it extra buff. make sure they are seated flush too. errthing else is pretty good to go! i had one of those knock off blenders or whatever, as a quick replacement but it was nasty. left wing panel was like 10grams off in weight then the right and major warpage. flew like a gimp. what can you xpect from 60 bones? goodluk |
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Mike, Mini Buzzard is running a Hacker 20-20L, 10x4.7, with a outrunner/stick motor mount, last I heard.
E-Flightline doesn't seem to carry the Blender. Horizon has the JJ @ $109.99 and has spare parts. I bought my "Desert" clone from Hobby-estore.com @ $63.00 to my door. They have them now for $58.90 + shipping and tax (if in CA.). The quality is Excellent! My wings didn't weigh the same (never do). I weighed all the wing and tail parts. The heavy wing side received the lighter aileron and tail section. Balanced out less than 1 gram apart. For an inexpensive power system I used LightFlightRC's ARC 20-34-130 motor @ $25.95 (39 gram Razor 2500 clone) and Cobri gearbox. Running a 12x6 APC E prop. I'm pushing the motor @ 18 amps, but it doesn't get hot. Can always re-gear a gearbox for lower or higher amp draw, though. This setup = WOW!!! I've done some mods, CF flat on the plywood wing spars, cut out cockpit from turtle deck, reinforced landing gear area, CF hor. stab., CF elev. joiner, CF rod thru balsa motor stick, magnet hatch, CF landing gear (on order). If you would like to see some pictures, let me know, and it will be done. - Lance |
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Is 5 minute epoxy much different than the 30 ? I want to use my "Top Secret" prop and only 200 watts. It should be slow and low. I know, Rick probably'll hate it. I'll do the Spar and Stab mods for certain. I wonder if my good buddy (and neighbor) would swap me a couple of Pico BBs for some Naros.... Or will Picos (in the tail) be proficient? Lance, did you have a tough time cutting the cockpit? I heard it saved a little weight.
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I've got one of the first production JJ here at the forums for $80 shipped. Great deal!
Nice looking plane. I really like it! It may take me another couple of weeks to put it in the air. Here's some pics of it. Lance, What gearing are you using with the ARC motor. I bought a Castle CM-2042, for a Cobri GB with a 11x4.7SF and Motocalc says 18A with a 4.5:1 gearing. BTW, use Gorilla glue for the wing spar "sandwich" inside the fuse. It's lighter and stronger than epoxy. |
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Mike, Pico for Naro, Absolutely! It's what you need for those knife edge / tail slide / snap rolls you've mastered. 5 min. vs 30 min. vs 3 hour - The longer the cure the more time it has to adhere/soak the part and the longer cure is more flexible if mixed correctly. I weigh my two part epoxy on my digital scale, works great. Cockpit shaved 7 grams and looks COOL opened up. "Top Secret" and 200 watts, Love It!!!
Fly2Low, I bought a (PA) Katana Mini ARF and it was much worse to assemble. It's a nice plane but the workmanship got me pissed. Paid $119.00 to my door. Better workmanship on my $63.00 Desert. I think the Desert is from the same plant in China where Flitons "WERE" made. Fliton built their own plant and I think the old plant said "SCRU YU, we sell them out back door". My Desert didn't come with the Fliton decals, or instruction manual. It did come with a match painted turtledeck and cowl, some decals, and some HI-VIS white strips for the bottom of the wing. Nice hardware, too. I'm Very Happy with my Desert (JJ) ARFs. Malves, That is definately a type one JJ. You can tell because it doesn't have the two ply stringers that tie in the firewall and bulkhead. Did you do "The Mods"! Makes it ROCK SOLID!!! Looks like your on your way with the build. I see some CF in the hor. stab. I was hoping you wouldn't ask what gearing. I'll have to count some gear teeth to be accurate, but I think it's a little higher gear ratio than 6.66. What's the KV on the CM-2042? I was going to use Gorilla glue, but decided on 3 hour epoxy. It's hard to control the foam action of the Gorilla, but the foaming fills gaps great. The 3 hour epoxy gave me ample time to line everything up, and a Great bond. Hope the CF landing gear works, that'l be GREAT. Found a set for $7.50, we'll see if it works out. Must also have a tail wheel, OH YA!!! Lance |
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Malves, NICE JOB!!! It's hard to see in the picture, does the wing spar doubler go to the second rib? Try a 12x6 APC E on your calc with about a 5 to 5.5 ratio. Should have more speed and more thrust for about the same amp draw. The JJ is a full-on "BEAUTIFL" pattern plane that can do 3D, well. It has a high wingload and ain't no floater, but I've heard it discribed as "even a beginner can fly and land this plane". With that said, it likes to fly fast, but just how slow will it fly?
I'd go with the PH25. The S3110 have had some good things said about them. I wonder if the 7+ gram servo gears can handle the loads. I went with GWS Naro BB/Fast/HP in the tail @ 11 grams each. Heavy, thick, gears compared to my GWS Picos, and HS 55's. (Me LIKE!!!) I had to add about 10mm to the stock balsa stick. The motor/prop wouldn't come out the cowl without craming the cowl on. I even shaved the hump on the stick (hump might not be on the type one), but still not enough. You might think about a CF rod thru your balsa stick or a hardwood stick. It's really a MUST DO with the power you'll have. - Lance |
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Thank you, bro. Yes, the doubler goes to the 2nd rib. Camera is not the best one.
I actualy asked someone here to run the setup thru MC, but since I have a Power Analyzer, I can work things out easy. I've been using Futaba servos since I started in the hobby last year. Never had problems with them. First was the S3108, now the S3110. My only complaint are the very short leads. I've seen a vid of the JJ landing really slow, once. I am a beginner with balsa planes, but I believe this plane will be good for the transition from foam. I know the ME540 I tried wasn't. The CM-20/Cobri combo should weigh ~2.5oz. I have some angled supports for the stick mount, from my long dead ME540, that fit perfectly. I wanna wait until I get the Cobri to fit the cowl, and to paint it. By your comments, now I am positive I'll have to cut it. I may have more pics tonite, if I get the chance to work on it. |
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