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Mar 01, 2006, 08:32 PM
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Build Log

Beginners EPP Aileron Trainer, SportyT, Build log


I posted on the Airplane Talk as well.
I've had a bit of trouble finding a crashworthy trainner for the people I train to fly RC. So I came up with a all EPP high wing sporty trainer, that uses the GWS IPS motor and lipos. Its a little faster than a pico stick or tigermoth, but a lot slower than a E-starter. Yet it will go almost vertical for a burst. Its ailerons and elevator. If you have any sim time at all, you can fly this one. My goal is to keep it cheap, simple, light weight, crashworthy and easy to repair. So let me know if you guys are at all interested. Thanks, Butch


Since I have a few guys building the Sporty Trainer, I'm going to post a build log instead of trying to print up instructions. Butch
Last edited by Butch777; Apr 20, 2009 at 10:34 PM.
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Mar 01, 2006, 08:46 PM
I'll need an aileron trainer soon to move up to from my slow stick (not my first or most advanced model I've flown, just first one to survive more than 2 hours total time in the air ) and this sounds like it would fit the bill perfectly.
Mar 01, 2006, 09:11 PM
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Yea, It definitely lasted longer than many Stick models and is real easy to fix. It flys in some wind and is a lot funner than a pico stick, which I have over ten of!
If I can get the right airfoil, it would slow it down a bit and even be ok for a first plane. I fly mine in the street, with trees and cars all over the place. It will loop and roll and turn real quick after you get used to it, but at first, low rates or maybe 20 degrees max on the control surfaces would be best. Butch
Mar 01, 2006, 10:17 PM
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Price? Will the GWS 350c gearbox stick mount motors work on it? What are the dimensions? Wingspan, length etc? It looks really good to me, like a Mountain Models kit. I have their Magpie and I love it.
Mar 01, 2006, 11:08 PM
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The plane was designed as a light weight plane. With the IPS, under proped, on a small 3 cell lipo, it will climb almost vertical. At 75-80% throttle (max cruze) it pulls 2 amps static. At max throttle it will pull about 2.5 amps, which is ok only for a burst.
The 350 would probably rip the wings off or at least flex them way out of shape. Plus it'd have to have a larger ESC and batt and it would throw the C/G way off.
At this time the wing span is 26", length is 26" with a flying weight of under 6ozs.
No price yet, I'll have to see how much interest there is.
Butch
Mar 02, 2006, 12:17 AM
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Will it fly with Nimhs?
Mar 02, 2006, 12:43 AM
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With the sanded flat plate airfoil, it flys a little better than a flat plate foamie. But with the weight of nimh batts, it would have to be flown faster. This is not a super great flyer, but its a good flyer and cheap. Right now it will fly a about half throttle which is good with only a 26" wing span and a IPS motor. Since a cheap 3 cell lipo can provide the 2.5 amps and can be bought for around $20.00, I never tried the nimhs. I've mounted the lipo batt in a slot in the 18mm fusealge, so it stays in well even when crashed. But I'm sure if this project gets going, someone will try it. I may try it later, I've got about 40, 7 and 8 cell nimh packs, but I've got several other designs I messing with, so it will be a while, Butch
Mar 03, 2006, 10:05 PM
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I'm trying to come up with a cheap IPS gearbox mod, because they snap right through the bearing seats. Almost all of the IPS boxs I've broke right there like in the top pic.
The twin IPS box is supported by a tube, bearing to bearing. So I've cut the other motor out to make a stronger box, but it needs to be mounted on a tube, not a stick.
Also I just found out that Balsa Products has a metal box, so I got one. A bit costly, but probably worth it for a beginner. Beginner planes need to survive all those crashes. So far this one does very well. Butch
Mar 15, 2006, 03:44 AM
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Build Log,
The Sporty Trainer is made simular to most EPP flat-plate foamies. Its made light to be crashworthy, but not to 3D.
I started with some 9mm EPP from Slofly.com. The wings are 26" and the Fusealge is 26", but I've been asked for a 28" wing, so I'll do this build 28".
The glue I'm using is 5 and 15 minute epoxy and Goop for Crafts. Several different types of glue could be used as well.
For cutting the EPP I used a snap-off knife and an x-acto knife, also a single edge rasor blade comes in handy. EPP needs a sharp blade to keep from tearing it.

Here I have the parts laid out. As you can see the fuselage is two 9mm pieces. Thats to give a bit more body and hides the carbon fiber rod inside.
The carbon fiber rods can be any size, but I use .080, .090 and .099.
All the parts have been sanded to shape, the wings have a sanded leading edge, the fuselage is shaped and the control surfaces are tapered. You don't need to sand them, but I think it looks better and will fly a bit better. Butch
Mar 15, 2006, 04:04 AM
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Before gluing the fuselage halves together, a slot was cut in one half, for the C/F rod.
I used a stright edge and made 2 shallow cuts, then took some 120 grit sandpaper, folded, to sand it to the right depth for the rod.
Next. Gooped the rod in and then spread a thin layer of goop with a plastic spreader (old credit card) on both sides and then quickly put them together so I could adjust them if needed. Then put a couple books on the assembly and let dry over night.
You could use 15 min epoxy, spread thin. It would make the fusealge a bit more stiffer. But I think the goop is a better choice, even though a spray contact adhesive will probably do the job as well. The rod is set low in the fuselage to give room for the battery and electronics above it. The wing is glued on, so it helps stiffen the top area of the fuselage. Butch
Mar 15, 2006, 06:02 AM
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Subscribe,
Mine should be here soon,
Mar 15, 2006, 03:56 PM
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butch. before i start assembling ths mighty plane 1 question, how are the 2 fuse halves attached in the shipping box? i dont want to tear them appart io cut them appart if im not meant to. cheers
Rohan

PS. looks very very very nice
Mar 15, 2006, 08:35 PM
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I double sided taped them together. It will come apart no problem, but to remove the tape from the surface, I took a piece of masking tape and taped the the tape to get it up. More later this evening, Butch
Mar 16, 2006, 12:31 AM
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Since the fuselage is still fumeing from last might, I'll go to the wing, ailerons and elevator.
I choose to put 2 C/F rods in the wing. One close to the front and one on the rear edge. The rods are 26", giving about a 1" cushion on each side. and the front rod is back from the leading edge tips about 1/2" to 3/4". You can put in both the same size diameter rods or go larger in front and smaller in back. I use 15 min epoxy to put them in and haven't had any seperation after many crashes. The first SportyT, had a 24" wing and used .090 rods. You could see the wings flex some on a hard pull out, but every thing flexes with it so no big deal. For this 28" wing I'm using a .098 rod in front and a .080 in back, trying to keep the weight down.
The slots are cut the same way as the fuselage. Some people even use a soldering iron to make them.
Be carefull on the trailing edge rod not to go too deep, because the aileron hinges will be right under it. I should be flush with the bottom and trailing edge of the wing.
Here's pics of the wing slots, Butch
Mar 16, 2006, 03:16 AM
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I use CA hinges instead of tape. For a light plane like this, I use 1/4" strips and sometimes take a hole punch and thin each side to give it more flex. Then I fold them back and forth a couple times.
Line up the ailerons with the wing and seperate them about 1, 1/2" for the fuselage, then trim them to the edge of the wing tips. Next, mark the hinge points about 1" from the ends and in the middle. Then take a pointed blade and cut the hinge slots, checking each with a hinge to see that its deep enough. Then take a rasor blade and cut a 45 degree bevel on top and bottom. You can sand them with 120-180 sandpaper if you want.
Next, glue in the hinges into the ailerons and elevator, make sure to clean any exposed glue off before they dry.
The ailerons can then be glued into the wing, but don't do the elevator untill after the tail is glued on. When you glue the ailerons and elevator on, push them in all the way, then move them 45 degrees up and down, then let dry. This will set the gap. Because there beveled, the gap will be nice and tight. Butch


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