Thumbs down to Kyosho Fairwind 900 kit - Page 2 - RC Groups
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Jan 18, 2007, 04:52 PM
UK Footy Class Secretary
For a poor, stupid Brit, what on earth is a Dremel?
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Jan 18, 2007, 05:05 PM
tallastro's Avatar
It's a rotary tool. Spins various bits from 5000-30000 rpm. Useful tool. Drill bits, cutting blades, grinding stones, polishing ...

I used to have one like the Multipro but now I own a Black&Decker brand version.
Jan 19, 2007, 08:24 AM
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msprygada's Avatar
Originally Posted by slowflyer
I am just about done building a Kyosho Fairwind 900 sailboat kit. I feel that I must warn all of you out there that this has been one of the WORST kits that I have ever built.

When you open the box and pull out the hull, the first thing you'll notice is that there is EXCESSIVE plastic flashing left around the outer edge of the hull. The instructions say to simply trim it off with a razor blade....Good luck on this as the flash was so thick on mine that I could hardly cut through it to trim it off. It runs all the way across the top of the deck.

Also the plastic that they used to mold the hull out of seems to be extremely flexy. I hope it holds up to the rigors of sailing.

You will also have to spend an extra $20 on keel ballest, as it is not included.

All in all I'd say you could do a lot better then this kit. I have now built a V32, a Victoria and am working on restoring an old Marblehead hull.

The finished 900 seems to look ok. All I've gotta do is rig it and then I'll post a report on how it sails.

Does anyone else have one of these boats?
Do yourself a favor and get yourself a RC Laser. Comes to the door ready to sail. Set up takes less than 5 minutes. The easiest to transport, can't sink it. Waterproof cockpit, and you can't kill it. No stanchions to mess with and can handle winds from zero to 35+. Can be transported in a carrying bag that will easily fit in a small car or checked as luggage to take with you on vacation. And is about same price you paid.
Apr 28, 2007, 11:59 AM

Fairwind 900

Hi Thumbs down:
Read my construction tips on Fairwind 900 homepage.
The Japanese sequence of construction needed rearranging, plus several tips on construction.
I bought and built 4 FWs for 4 grandkids.
Reason: they have NO keel bulb to catch lake underwater grass.
FW keel passes right through grass.
We REALLY enjoy sailing our FWs.
Frank Perry
Apr 28, 2007, 06:26 PM
Joe Wells
to Slowflyer -- I agree with you completely. It may be an entry level hull but I wouldn't wish it on some beginner. I have sailed full scale from 8' to 66' and models for years. Built three S1Ms and some others as well and was never so disappointed as when I opened the FW kit box. It was a tough build and didn't sail as well as the S1M. I put all the go fasts that the class allows and it still wouldn't get out of it's own way.
Apr 28, 2007, 06:51 PM
Boaters are nice people.
The Fairwind' speed suffers greatly from the thick draggy keel.

A fellow boater has sawn off this bulky thing and is replacing it with a Graupner Saphir keelfin and bulb (sold seperately).

Chances are this Fairwind will be able to keep up with the Sapihirs, Seawinds and Voyagers.

Regards, Jan.
Jun 20, 2007, 12:58 AM
Registered User
How long would it take for a novice to put together the FairWind900 kit
Jun 20, 2007, 08:15 AM
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Aten W Arthog's Avatar
You could do it in 24 hours if you put your mind to it. You'd want that much time for the glue holding the ballast in the keel to harden anyhow. The boat is highly fabricated, it doesn't take long at all to install the radio components, just an hour or two. If you want to detail the boat out, scraping and filling the seams and painting the hull, etc. that could take a day or more but understand that doing so is totally optional; if you are not planning on racing the boat, it comes together quite fast and will look and sail fine on the water. Rigging the stays for the sail is not even all that hard, takes maybe an hour the first time at home, then once you have everything set up, stepping the sail and hooking up the servo lines at the pond takes five minutes or less. The instructions are well-illustrated.
Jun 20, 2007, 10:13 AM
Registered User
Thanks for the head's up. How important are the improvements that some suggest, like ribs in the hull ?
Jun 20, 2007, 10:24 AM
Registered User
Hi Aten, Also, any good source for the parts that are not included in the kit, like the servo and radio ?
Jun 20, 2007, 09:11 PM
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Aten W Arthog's Avatar
I don't know anything about adding ribs inside the hull, don't see a need, though adding carbon fiber ribbon reinforcement on the underside of the deck around the large hatch opening would be a good thing. These hulls are very tough as supplied, IMO. A compression strut belowdecks under the mast step is about the only thing I can think of in terms or reinforcements needed. Maybe extra build-up around the tube for the rudder, because that's the part that's likely to get bumped hard in day to day transportation of the model. I use a rudder pushrod with some z-bends that will naturally deform and prevent further damage if the rudder is suddenly hit or wrenched.

Since I built up my Fairwind over the years from a bare hull, my radio setup is not stock, but I've seen the stock setup and it's okay. For the radio, any brand of 2-channel surface radio for boats will do, I use a 2-stick version of the multiplex-hitec brand, with a standard supplied servo (radio normally comes with 2 of these) for the rudder, and instead of a more powerful, but more expensive winch servo for sail control, I use an inexpensive quarter-scale airplane servo for around $30 and a custom double-ended arm I made myself out of glassfiber circuitboard material. Since I don't race, this is more than enough torque for any weather conditions I care to sail in, in the first place. I'm doing a similar setup in a Kyosho Seawind at the moment, it's a little stronger but still plenty cheap (Tower hobby''s own house brand ball-bearing quarter scale airplane servo), under $40, with only about 20 percent less torque than a winch servo, for less than half the cost of the winch. It does pull higher current, so I am using a y-harness to power it direct from the battery pack so the extra current doesn't need to course thru the reciever circuitry and burn it out. I have never needed to modify my servos to get extra movement out of them, they are completely stock except for a home-made arm I made and attach to the supplied servo output wheel with a couple screws. The arm servo in the Fairwind is now 17 years old, good as new. The home made servo output arm is just a little less wide than the boat's inner hull at the hull's widest point, has a lot of leverage, even without turn-arounds and blocks and etc...

This is a hardy, roomy boat, you can play around with it and make mistakes and modifications without fear or dire consequences. i find it has a very scale-like look under weigh in scale-speed winds, just very pleasant. You'll like it.
Jun 20, 2007, 09:32 PM
Registered User
Aten W Arthog's Avatar
BTW, picture of my Fairwind in another thread:
Jun 22, 2007, 07:17 AM
Oh, Ho, Ho, It's Magic!
mrfirkin's Avatar
I like the Fairwind 900 and almost bought one.

I ended up going with a Voyager but will add a Fairwind to my fleet when I have a few $$$ to spare.

Like the Voyager, it needs a few mods, upgrades and a bit of tinkering but that's half the fun.

Nice scale looks too.

Jun 22, 2007, 08:18 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by U-96
G'day Guy's
I have recently built the Kyosho Seawind and found it to be the best kit I have ever built. I am usually an avid scratch builder but I must say i enjoyed the hassel free building. It too had the excess plastic flashing but it was easily removed and i just buffed the hull to a mirror finish. As for performance, fantastic in the light winds but no good in the high range as she tends to steer straight into wind and i cant seem to do anything to the trim to counteract it. The servo type sail winch is very fast acting and responsive. The fittings in the kit where of a superior quality too with a beautifully made anodised aluminium mast. I think maybe the Fairwind is aimed as an entry model. I am just suprised to here this as all my experiences ,be it not many, with Kyosho have been of the finest quality.
All the best Keith
U-96: Have you ever thought of making an adjustable jib pivot on the Seawind to assist in high winds?

I own a much loved Nirvana II and she has the opposite tendency of the Seawind...the fixed jib pivot point throws the center of effort forward which is great for medium to higher winds but not so good in light airs where she tends to want to run to lee helm.

On the Nirvana, you can't change easily or make adjustable where the jib pivot deck fitting is...but you can rig the line to the jib boom itself by using a plastic connector that the computer guys use to secure cable in the back of the computer instead of a fixed tied knot to the jib boom..

Tighten this connector as much as you can and she will hold fast but still be loose enough to slide up and down the jib boom..

I know there are other ways to correct for center of effort (bending the mast etc.) but these do not cause enough of a change with the Nirvana.

However, with this adjustable jib pivot you can effectively move the boats center of effort more aft (slide the jib connector forward to move center of effort and jib boom further aft) for light winds or more forward for heavy winds and really notice the difference to get that "perfect" heel and tack angle.

Who knows? Could work in the Seawind too and help in heavier winds. ~TC
Jul 17, 2007, 03:51 PM
Hi all,

Here's my Fairwind:-

Got her second hand from a mate who didn't want her anymore. I think she's a very old example of the Fairwind going by her decals which are very different from those on the current Fairwind900 decal sheet. The sails being yellow with age is another clue I guess.

Can anybody tell me what the difference is between the Fairwind, Fairwind 2 and Fairwind900 and which one of these I've got?



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