Balsa USA Eindecker - RC Groups
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Feb 17, 2006, 11:27 PM
Modeling Retread
Build Log

Balsa USA Eindecker


Bulletin: I actually finished the plane! Now I'm in the process of preparing it for flight. It's been a trial but I've come through. Thanks to those who've hung in with me.


Hello, I'm back. Several years health and family issues had my modeling off the burner entirely. I've spent the last year getting back up to speed and now I'm ready get at it again.


Welcome to my build log on the Balsa USA Eindecker.

Why the EIII?

- I wanted to start building again with a scale model of simple design.
- I thought the basic layout was similar to the Long John 60 that was my most constant companion when I was flying.
- I have a ST 75 that should be plenty for the design

Below are two images: the manual and my building table with the plans laid out and the first pieces of balsa laid down. Most instructions seem to start with the tail feathers. The Eindecker suggests starting with the fuselage. Im actually going to start with The Firewall!

The Firewall? Well, one of the first things you have to do with a new kit is read the instructions and inspect the plans and compare them to what you plan to do. If you plan on doing anything that is not specifically called out, be prepared to modify. Well my difference is my plan to use a Great Planes in cowl muffler instead of the standard ST muffler. Ill cover that in the next installment of this log.

Oh, just for a teaser, I've added a thumbnail of the target scheme. A green EIII in a German museum. I like it because it's green and it has open wire wheels. I have some bigger pictures for my work.
Last edited by GRW3; Oct 18, 2017 at 06:03 PM.
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Feb 22, 2006, 03:44 PM
Ghostrider
Yilmael's Avatar
I like your choice, I just recently returned to RC modeling and chose Balsa USA's Bristol M1. It's funny cause I was torn between that and the Eindecker I'm really interested in seeing how your build develops, I just might get the Eindecker after I finish my Bristol. I'll e sure to start a thread about my baby as soon as I finish the wings this weekend... I wanna have some pics. Good Luck witht he build and keep us posted.
Feb 22, 2006, 11:23 PM
Modeling Retread

Firewall Follies


As I promised, I will start with the engine muffler issues.

This time I am dealing with the PLAN for adding the in cowl muffler. The big question is how far back does it go and that has been determined. Philisophically, I now have to decide if it will be full fuselage width or just wide enough for the muffler. The muffler engine relationship is asymetrical so I also have to determine if the recess is going to be asymetrical to match the muffler or symetric to the fuselage.

Regardless of the muffler issue, I would have started with the firewall and motor mount. I hate trying to drill mount holes in an already built-in firewall. Working this through early also lets you deal with fuel line and throttle control issues in a relaxed manner.
Last edited by GRW3; Feb 23, 2006 at 01:35 AM.
Mar 01, 2006, 11:36 AM
Ghostrider
Yilmael's Avatar
What kind of a difference do you get from letting the CA cure overnight instead of setting in just a few minutes?
Mar 03, 2006, 10:21 AM
Modeling Retread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yilmael
What kind of a difference do you get from letting the CA cure overnight instead of setting in just a few minutes?
It's probably no real difference as much as a "belts and suspenders" action. My experience has shown me that acting on CA glued joints too soon finds them fragile. I don't use accelerator because those chemicals annoy me more than the CA fumes. I'm not in a hurry so the extra time is OK. As they say, your mileage may vary...
Mar 03, 2006, 02:08 PM
Registered User
SAPropbuster's Avatar
Nice thread, George. I'll be watching.......

I wish I had the determination to photo-build myself. But I get into the building and forget to take the pictures. I should have done that with the Legal Eagle U/L!

Maybe the next one.

Bob
Mar 04, 2006, 12:07 AM
Modeling Retread

Tailfeathers - Vertical


Once again I diverge from the recommended order of construction. While the Vertical Stabilizer and Rudder are intended to be the last major construction, the plans are pinned down now for the fuselage.

In the instructions they state that the plans are as accurate as possible but to go with the actual parts if there is a discrepancy. In the case of the vert parts they came out a little taller than the plans. If you find yourself in that situation, try to find a reference point from which to align the construction. Here I used the top of the horizontal stabilizer as the primary reference line.

Another benefit of having these parts done now is I have them to work with for other construction processes. I have tests to run on hingeing, covering and finishing for which these pieces will be very handy.
Mar 04, 2006, 05:49 PM
Gene
Quote:
Originally Posted by GRW3
Once again I diverge from the recommended order of construction. While the Vertical Stabilizer and Rudder are intended to be the last major construction, the plans are pinned down now for the fuselage.

In the instructions they state that the plans are as accurate as possible but to go with the actual parts if there is a discrepancy. In the case of the vert parts they came out a little taller than the plans. If you find yourself in that situation, try to find a reference point from which to align the construction. Here I used the top of the horizontal stabilizer as the primary reference line.

Another benefit of having these parts done now is I have them to work with for other construction processes. I have tests to run on hingeing, covering and finishing for which these pieces will be very handy.
Yimmell
There are a lot of glues that work well and do not bother you as much. Unless you are in a big hurry try sig yellow and white glue as well as sigment. I like using ambroid cement. You need to put it on each joint several times but it will hold well and sand easy. Slot and Wings in Champaign has most of them and sometimes it is in the scratch and dent section where I like to go. I assume that you have been to slot and wings?

Gene
Mar 04, 2006, 11:56 PM
Modeling Retread

Lost Day


I had to go to Dallas and back today so I got nothing done. (Well, that's not completely true, I did remove the pins from the vert stab and rudder and block sand them.) For info on the trip see my blog "GRW3". I did use the driving time to think about the rest of the project.
Mar 11, 2006, 03:04 AM
Modeling Retread
I've been sick this week but I've got a little done. I'll try to post this weekend.
Mar 13, 2006, 12:42 PM
Modeling Retread

Reinforcing the Tailskid


I heard that the tailskid area was a known sorce of weakness for this airplane. I will be doing some modifications to this area to increase strength without adding too much weight. I don't use Carbon Fiber too much but I have some for special applications.

I started with the tailskid now for the same reason I did the vert stab and rudder - the plans were there. Later when it is time to close up the bottom of the fuselage I will make some mods to the mount.

In general, I try to build kits as I receive them, making modifications only when I need to (like the firewall for the muffler) or when there is a known or perceived problem (weak tailskid).
Mar 14, 2006, 02:33 PM
Modeling Retread

Finishing the Firewall


I would have started with the firewall if all I intended to do was set the motor mount but, as you recall, my in cowl muffler has a set back requirement. The fuselage is ready to accept the firewall so now is the time to finish the complete assembly.

I like to take advantage of my available tools, even if they are not strictly necessary. I have a discussion of the drill press, the Dremel Saw and a Belt and Disk sander in my Blog (GRW3)

If you build this aircraft, or any A/C, read the instructions carefully. It says be sure to install the firewall "Square to the Fuselage". Note it is "to the fuselage" not, "to level" (i.e. the building board). Square is defined by the carefully aligned sides and the cutout in the light ply lamination. In this instance we end up with downthrust.

Notes: (too long to add to the picture)

1) When you drill through hardwood or plywood, use a back up block if you want a clean hole. In the first picture you can see it, a 2x4 cutoff. When you get too many holes to find a solid area when drilling, get another piece.

2) I also used the saw to cut out the muffler firewall and formers from 1/8" plywood. This required changing the blade on the saw for the optimum cut.
Last edited by GRW3; Mar 14, 2006 at 02:41 PM.


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