Paint or recover fuselage? Remodel help needed for my Astro Viking. - RC Groups
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Feb 14, 2006, 01:50 AM
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Paint or recover fuselage? Remodel help needed for my Astro Viking.

Hi All,
As said in my other thread, I'd like to add side windows to this 63" Viking.
Also remove old wrinkled white and yellow(hate it) monocoat from forward 2/3 of cabin area, rear 1/3 and rest of plane is a yellow/goldish transparent monocoat type film(I like it).
I'm at least the 3rd owner, and it looks like it was covered w/ solid yellow before the y/g transparent.

1) After removing w/y mono, I would like to just seal the exposed balsa and paint it red with the front black like the free flight planes of that period. Sort of like this lovely picture below, but black where his is red.
2) Should I cover the balsa with something for strength first, then paint??
John(balsa illiterate, but learning)
Last edited by MISTERSCOTT; Apr 24, 2006 at 12:19 AM.
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Feb 16, 2006, 08:57 PM
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Since you are flying electric, you don't need to seal the balsa. However, the paint will look a lot better if you use sanding sealer or dope/balsa dust or dope/talcum powder to fill the wood grain before painting.

But it is much too cold to paint this time of the year, so cover with Litespan or Ultracoat, and then paint over the covering, if you must. You can easily paint over Litespan, but you will need a degreaser for the Ultracoat, then scuff up the surface a bit with a scouring pad.

By the way, you can use clear monokote for the side windows - it is easier than using clear plastic.

Feb 17, 2006, 01:14 AM
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Thanks Dick,
Yea, when I made the Hover Fly I just sealed the fuselage then sprayed it.
But grain still showed, because I kept it lite.
Does Litespan go on like Monocoat, and can it conform to the curves at the front of the fuselage?
Feb 17, 2006, 03:47 AM
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vintage1's Avatar
Covering balsa is almost mandatory..its not that stable and will crack and craze..usually we dope tissue over it first before finishing.

But a heat film will do also.

I would not leave it bare...did that once and in a few weeks the paint cracked everywhere.
Feb 18, 2006, 12:58 AM
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Thank you for the advice.
Will cover with something first. I'll look into Litespan
Heres some pictures of the stripes on the fuelage, at last nights indoor flying.
No, I left the reciever at home so the guys would not dare me to fly it...
Feb 18, 2006, 09:18 PM
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I don't have my Viking anymore - it was my first electric back about 1993 and I just wore it out. Memory says I covered the cowl in four pieces of Litespan: top, bottom and two sides. Litespan doesn't have an adhesive on the back, so it is a little more work than monocoat. You brush balsaloc or balsarite on the wood, which is then heat activated when you apply the Litespan. The Litespan does stretch and heat-shrink some after application. It's not harder than monocoat, just different. It looks a lot like colored silkspan.

Feb 20, 2006, 12:34 AM
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This is the planned paint/window ideas.
As with Fliir's Viking thread, he covered the fuselage sides,sealed and painted the nose to avoid overlaping. I'll try the same?
Found some Silkspan and tissue in my basement and am testing them with Polycrylic.
Stripped off the yellow and white Monocoat Saturday and sanded.
Guess I could just by some red Monocoat, but that would be cheating!
Last edited by MISTERSCOTT; Feb 21, 2006 at 12:49 AM.
Mar 08, 2006, 10:45 PM
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Heres pictures of windows cut in.
I have sealed the balsa with polycrylic.
Apr 24, 2006, 12:13 AM
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Heres the final product in the air.
Have two out of 10 flights that had 25+ min. in air, w/ 12 min. motor run time.
Sanded and sealed balsa w/ 3 coats of polycrylic funiture finish, and painted 2 coats of Nelson polycrylic paint (red), Modelmasters acrylic(satin black). No weight gain from removed mono coat.
Now have pull/pull controls to lighten tail, and a 7 cell 1700 and 2400 nicad free from a friend powering the AF 05 brushed.
33.25 oz. w/o batt.
Last edited by MISTERSCOTT; Apr 24, 2006 at 12:25 AM.
Apr 24, 2006, 11:27 AM
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Airboatflyingshp's Avatar
Nice one john ........fancy a go at a 2/3 scale version of a Radio Queen next 52" span it would make an easy build and electric convert.

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