LE & TE - RC Groups
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Feb 12, 2006, 07:32 PM
Registered User


Hi All I'm in the process of down sizing a 40 size Cloud Dancer for Electric flight. The original 40 Cloud Dancer WS was 60" the smaller one would have only be have 36" WS.. My question is will I still need LE & TE sheeting??

The original one had LE sheeting up to main spar and the length of the wing..The TE was just a 1" x 1/16 also the length of the wing.

Also on original CD had the top fuselage and turtle deck were covered in balsa ..Do you guys think that all that is necessary for the smaller version??

Thanks Dan

PS The CD will be flying more like a sport/pattern type plane.. NO 3D
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Feb 12, 2006, 08:56 PM
Ascended Master
Sparky Paul's Avatar
A sheeted leading edge is better aerodynamically than just an l.e. and ribs.
The built-up t.e. is better than a single stick.
With vertical grained shear webs, the t.e. can be the stiffest part of the wing.
For the fuselage top, stringers covered with M'kote are OK.
Feb 13, 2006, 12:23 AM
It must have a machinegun
Scaledown's Avatar
The so-called D-box wing section is also structurally more efficient, giving tremendous torsional rigidity and excellent bending strength with only a small main spar. 1mm sheet would be adequate at that size. You need to be more accurate with your construction, because once the sheet is glued on, any warps are there permanently.

I don't go in for complex trailing edges. It just needs to hold the aileron hinges firmly and be stiff enough not to be pulled in by the covering shrinkage.
Feb 13, 2006, 05:21 AM
You sabotaged my plane.
eliworm's Avatar
Does it NEED it? No. I have some larger planes that have no sheeting on the wing and they do fine. I also have a 100 inch sailplane with no sheeting. If you want alot of strength and a little better looks add sheeting.

Feb 13, 2006, 10:19 AM
Registered User


Hi Guys Thanks for the fast replies .. So I guess the TE & LE sheeting.It's really a matter of preference.. I'm thinking It CAN"T add that much weight.

I have 1 more question..I'm building a Sig Kobra for E flight..The cowl is made of the 2 fuselage sides a 1 balsa block. I will closing in the top with the balsa block and leaving the bottom open pretty much for cooling.. Any suggestion/idea's for making the cowl removeable..Here'sa pic of what is called for..

Thanks Again Dan
Feb 13, 2006, 11:57 PM
It must have a machinegun
Scaledown's Avatar
Why do you want it to be removable? If its open at the bottom you can slide the motor in or out through that opening.
Feb 14, 2006, 06:46 PM
Registered User

removable cowl

Hi Guys I don't think getting the motor if need be, will be that easy.. I might have only access to only 3 of the mounting bolts....I could always hack it apart if I have too, then rebuild..No Problem..

Thanks Dan
Feb 14, 2006, 10:57 PM
Registered User
Originally Posted by DBono99
g.. Any suggestion/idea's for making the cowl removeable..Here'sa pic of what is called for..

Thanks Again Dan
How about short locating pins (3mm dowel) to prevent shear and rare earth magnets?
Feb 14, 2006, 11:31 PM
It must have a machinegun
Scaledown's Avatar
Most of my motors are mounted at the front. I have a ply ring at the front of the fuselage and the screws go in before I attach the prop and spinner.
If the motor mounts at the back, then I see your problem. A one piece cowl make from block, held in place by locating pins and magnets, as grizzlyone suggests, would work.

Alternatively you can drill some screwdriver holes from the front of the cowl to get to the inaccessible screws. They would look like typical WW2 machine gun troughs. The motor could then drop out the cooling hole.

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