I used the Apple Barrel Acrylic Paint from Walmart and Tamiya from HobbyTown USA for gloss black (just because Walmart didn't have gloss black). I don't think any paint attacks this foam so really any paint will work.

If you're going to paint your Acromaster, make sure to rub the entire outer surface very well with rubbing alcohol. Multiplex puts some kind of anti-stick coating on the foam so they can remove it from the mold. It washes off with alcohol and makes a surface the paint will adhere to.

One more 3D plane foamy that is top notch in my books is the Airfoilz Edge.

In the photo, you can see my big birds in the background.

Thanks Kerbob for the photo and paint info. I will not go to Walmart though, it's a bit far. I did the same sort of undercarraige change to a HK Cub. I ended up ripping the plastic plate off and a huge section of the foam.

Now I've done it ...

I was just gearing up to get started on my Acromaster build, waiting for some lousy weather to keep me indoors so I had no choice but to get down to it, when lo and behold a Parkmaster 3D shows up! OK, I admit it, I did order the thing. Never could pass up a good deal (I guess it's getting a bit long in the tooth, and the discount was more than I could resist). I seem to have sort of painted myself into a corner.

Right, so I have the kits and all the hardware I need to build an Acromaster and a Parkmaster, and now, being the fickle wishy-washy type that I am, I can't for the life of me decide which one to build first!

Damn.

I think I'm tempted to get the Parkmaster underway first, and use that experience when I move on to the Acromaster,* but if anyone can think of a good reason to do things the other way around, stop me now!

* I have already built and am flying a Fun Cub.

Aside from the modifications to the nose of the acromaster, they are both fairly simple and straight forward builds. I've never owned or flown a parkmaster (except for the simulator), but I bet its about as easy to fly as the Acromaster.
Personally, I'd do the Parkmaster. If I had both, I'd be more disappointed if I lost the Acromaster because it is a nice looking plane AND it flies A-One Top of the line.

Originally Posted by Kerbob

Aside from the modifications to the nose of the acromaster, they are both fairly simple and straight forward builds. I've never owned or flown a parkmaster (except for the simulator), but I bet its about as easy to fly as the Acromaster.
Personally, I'd do the Parkmaster. If I had both, I'd be more disappointed if I lost the Acromaster because it is a nice looking plane AND it flies A-One Top of the line.

OK, that's a +1 for the Parkmaster, with reasoning along the same lines as my own.

Thanks for that Kerbob!

I have been critical of Multiplex with it's failure to address the motor mount vibration problem and even said I doubted I would replace my AM if I trashed it. Well I trashed it but I am going to replace it. It was great to fly but this time I am going to use ply stiffening to the front fuselage and a ply motor mount. I found it was faster then the model on Phoenix simulator compared to say the Addiction.

Hey all AM experts!

Yesterday I picked up a Acro master kit from my local hobby shop, and have a shopping list ready for needed parts. Any thoughts about my list?

I hope the motor has enough power? The weight is a bit less than the stock Himax C 3516-1130 (134gram) but I will reinforce the nose with some plywood that adds weight. My kit came with the Alu motor mount.

Anyway here is the list:


Motor: Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 3536-1200kv
Specs.
Turns: 14T
Voltage: 3~4S Lipoly
RPM/V: 1200kv
Internal resistance: 0.028 Ohm
Max Loading: 38A
Max Power: 560W
Shaft Dia: 5.0mm
Bolt holes: 25mm
Bolt thread: M3
Weight: 111g

Lipo: Have a few Zippy Compact 3S 2200 20c - maybe go for 4S 2200's

ESC: Turnigy Plush 40amp

Prop: 11x5,5 ?

Landing gear: Carbon Fiber Landing Gear 130mm

Wheels: Light Foam Wheel Diam: 60, Width: 10mm

Servo's: 2x Hitec HS-82MG (tail) + 2x HS-65HB

Tail: On my FunCup I used this Tail Wheel Assembly
But maybe it's to heavy so i'm looking at: This or This



Hope this will work, anybody that used this specific motor, and is a 4S lipo a good or bad idea?

.

Stock motor info that I found for comparing:

Himax C 3516-1130 m. Zubehör
Motor der 350 Watt-Klasse
• geeignet für 3D-Flugmodelle von 900g bis 1300g
• Kunstflugmodelle bis 1600g
• Trainermodelle bis 2000g
• Segelflugmodelle bis 3500g
Himax C 3516-1130

Typische Stromaufnahme mit 2S LiPo, Prop 12“ x 8“ ca. 38A
Typische Stromaufnahme mit 3S LiPo, Prop 11“ x 5,5“ ca. 34A
 
Technische Daten:
Hersteller
 Multiplex
Drehzahl (U/min/V)
 1130
empfohlene Zellenzahl 
 6-9 NiCd/NiMH  2S-3S Lipo
Dauerstrom max. (Ampere)
 34A
Maximalstrom (Ampere)
 48A für 15 sec. 
Motordurchmesser
 35mm
Motorlänge
 42mm
Motorwellen Ø
 5mm 
Gewicht
 134 Gramm
Befestigung
 Ø 25mm / 4xM3 

[QUOTE=Justapoke;23483330]Hey all AM experts!

Yesterday I picked up a Acro master kit from my local hobby shop, and have a shopping list ready for needed parts. Any thoughts about my list?.............../QUOTE]

Yes you need to figure some way to stop the vibration. I thought I had it licked on my AM but it came back. The motor mounting is hopeless. Yesterday a friend with a Funcub had the exact same problem. The Funcub has the same system of mounting the motor.

Sorry to be a killjoy but you need to take it seriously during the build or you will be very unhappy. Do a search in the forum to find work arounds.

Hi,

Thanks but I'm aware of that, like I posted I'm going to reinforce the nose with some plywood

Originally Posted by Justapoke

Hi,

Thanks but I'm aware of that, like I posted I'm going to reinforce the nose with some plywood

By all means reinforcing the nose is a good idea but from my observations the problem of the vibrations stems from the fixing of the motor mount. The motor mount only has two bolts holding it in place and one needs to stop the mount vibrating on the axis of those two fixings. The four bolts which adjust the thrust angle are really the only thing stopping the vibration and unless they are hard down on the plastic face of the motor mount supports which are glued to either side of the fuselage the mount can twist on the two fixing bolts axis and vibrate. I found that I could not set the four bolts used to set the thrust angle of the motor in place on the motor mount and then fix the motor mount. You have no guarantee the bolts are contacting the face of the supports. After a while the bolts which adjust the thrust angle wear into the face of the plastic side mounts and the vibrations come back. Not only this but the motor mount plate needs to distort if the four bolts are to contact with the side supports. I find it hard to see how this can happen. Are well keep on keeping on. I am sure someone will have other ideas but I am about to build another AM....I know glutton for punishment.... and I intend to fit a ply firewall further back in the fuselage so that the motor is rear mounted as one would do on a "normal" firewall.

Originally Posted by Kerbob

If you're going to paint your Acromaster, make sure to rub the entire outer surface very well with rubbing alcohol. Multiplex puts some kind of anti-stick coating on the foam so they can remove it from the mold. It washes off with alcohol and makes a surface the paint will adhere to.

Has anyone tried acetone for this?

Originally Posted by Watdazit

By all means reinforcing the nose is a good idea but from my observations the problem of the vibrations stems from the fixing of the motor mount. The motor mount only has two bolts holding it in place and one needs to stop the mount vibrating on the axis of those two fixings. The four bolts which adjust the thrust angle are really the only thing stopping the vibration and unless they are hard down on the plastic face of the motor mount supports which are glued to either side of the fuselage the mount can twist on the two fixing bolts axis and vibrate. I found that I could not set the four bolts used to set the thrust angle of the motor in place on the motor mount and then fix the motor mount. You have no guarantee the bolts are contacting the face of the supports. After a while the bolts which adjust the thrust angle wear into the face of the plastic side mounts and the vibrations come back. Not only this but the motor mount plate needs to distort if the four bolts are to contact with the side supports. I find it hard to see how this can happen. Are well keep on keeping on. I am sure someone will have other ideas but I am about to build another AM....I know glutton for punishment.... and I intend to fit a ply firewall further back in the fuselage so that the motor is rear mounted as one would do on a "normal" firewall.

I'll keep a ply firewall in mind..

I just finished a FunCup with the normal (Alu) motor mount and see how that goes. I agree it's a problametic way of mounting with the 4 settings-scews. I do think it's better for airflow compared to a frewall behind the motor.

Maybe this is a idea and simple solution: just try to add some glue that stays soft (like silicone or something better) between the 2 plastic mounts and the Alu plate / setting screws. This could stop the vibration.

This should be done after the first flights to check if the motor ofset is ok. And you should be able to get if off if needed, so it has to be a glue that stay's a bit soft.

Maybe adding some good quality rubber washers between it could do the trick as well.

Originally Posted by Justapoke

I'll keep a ply firewall in mind............

Here is one answer
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-...:X:AAQ:US:1123

Also look at post 2010, if you haven't already, for a very professional work around the problem.

Rubber mounting and such like I think will not prevent the vibration occurring. It is fairly violent and if you have a Funcub test it by running the motor up to full power. I do this by standing with the elevator wing behind my legs to restrain the plane. It is frightening and I believe a friend, who works in a hobby shop, when he says people have had the nose drop off!

When this plane is flying it is brilliant and an excellent 3D trainer. On my first battery I was doing loops, flips and snap rolls. Take offs and landings were a breeze. I wrote mine off when it went deadstick and I lost it in the sun. I said I would never buy another one if I damaged it but I was so impressed I have ordered another one and I am going to try and work around the vibration.

Originally Posted by FunPilot

Now I've done it ...

I was just gearing up to get started on my Acromaster build, waiting for some lousy weather to keep me indoors so I had no choice but to get down to it, when lo and behold a Parkmaster 3D shows up! OK, I admit it, I did order the thing. Never could pass up a good deal (I guess it's getting a bit long in the tooth, and the discount was more than I could resist). I seem to have sort of painted myself into a corner.

Right, so I have the kits and all the hardware I need to build an Acromaster and a Parkmaster, and now, being the fickle wishy-washy type that I am, I can't for the life of me decide which one to build first!

Damn.

I think I'm tempted to get the Parkmaster underway first, and use that experience when I move on to the Acromaster,* but if anyone can think of a good reason to do things the other way around, stop me now!

* I have already built and am flying a Fun Cub.

I would do the PM first, that only has a less than desirable U/C mount to deal with, as noted in the previous messages, the engine mount and nose on the PM is a whole different ball game.

Mike