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Old Aug 09, 2006, 03:49 PM
chichisport is offline
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Is there any trick as heating it to bring back the gloss to the elapor after sanding?

Heating slightly works on depron .
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Old Aug 09, 2006, 03:56 PM
TexasFlyer is offline
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Good question, Chichisport. I was just watching Derk's 2nd video (again) where I think he was flying Pjotrrr's plane. It appears to be very smooth with a satin gloss. Also, the canopy is pure black with none of the usual "foam" shapes underneath.

Pjotrrr - Is that your plane? Can you give us tips on how you got that nice silky finish and solid canopy color?

Thanks,

Alan
Old Aug 09, 2006, 05:07 PM
sspiker is offline
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Although it is hard to tell from the attached pics, from my experience as long as you do not oversand it doesn't start appearing dull. I sand everything with 400 grit and of all the guys here I am the only one that sanded the mold marks off their AcroMaster. On the canopy I used Rustoleum Gloss black applied in light coats.

You also can't tell from the pics I cartwheeled the AcroMaster down the runway
Old Aug 09, 2006, 05:21 PM
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Now I remember that I´ve got a spare X-twin to practice finishing techniques in epp foam.
Old Aug 09, 2006, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspiker
I sand everything with 400 grit
sspiker,

Just to clarify, do you literally sand the entire plane (Elapor parts, that is) for an even look, or do you just sand around the actual mold marks off?

Alan
Old Aug 10, 2006, 02:39 PM
Jurgen Heilig is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspiker
...
I sand everything with 400 grit and of all the guys here I am the only one that sanded the mold marks off their AcroMaster.
...
You are not alone :
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=310

Jürgen
Old Aug 10, 2006, 03:14 PM
sspiker is offline
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Hitec/Multiplex USA
I lightly sand the entire model simply because the bumps are so close together...If a crease develops in the paper it can leave a tiny gouge so I change the paper often.

As far as the spray paint it seems the propellant actually attacks the foam so I keep the can as far back as possible for the first couple coats. This has worked well for all my Multiplex planes.
Old Aug 10, 2006, 06:39 PM
chichisport is offline
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But the damage is not that bad , turbulated canopy
Old Aug 10, 2006, 06:40 PM
chichisport is offline
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Jurgen , do you use the mpx primmer or tamiya directly?
Old Aug 11, 2006, 12:38 AM
Jurgen Heilig is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chichisport
Jurgen , do you use the mpx primmer or tamiya directly?
No need for primer. I have used the Tamiya paint on many Elapor canopies before.

Jürgen
Old Aug 11, 2006, 04:23 AM
chichisport is offline
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Great .
Old Aug 11, 2006, 10:41 AM
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hi i am new here
if my english isn't very well, then i excuse me becaus i am 15 years old and from belgium :P
i am flying an mpx easystar, minimag and i just bought a mpx acromaster with the himax power set.

now i read somthing about the motormount, that it aint very well if you glue it with CA, well i was wondering can i use UHU POR ore isn't it a good glue?
and what do you guys think about that himax set? how much is his trust actually?

well nice to be a member here to :P now i have to watch 2 forums (modelbouwforum.nl and rcgroups :P)

greets, sam
Old Aug 11, 2006, 11:51 AM
MikeMayberry is offline
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There has only been one reported failure with the motor mount so I would not worry about that. I don't know about the glue you refer to, but I used CA for mine and it's showing no signs of stress.

The Himax power set is best matched with a 3S 2100mah lipo (16C+) for the best performance. It is an excellent motor and has shown no signs of overheating even in hard flying.

Mike.
Old Aug 11, 2006, 12:24 PM
samuel s. is offline
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ohw very nice, i am going to fly with a 3s 2100mah 16c and 3s 2250mah between 16c and 20c
but i thing i am going to glue the mount with uhu por
anyway, thanks makemayberry!

greetings


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