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Jul 16, 2006, 02:38 PM
Registered User
Maidened mine to-day - an absolute peach of a plane! You guys over the pond are going to love it - of course, once Hitec pull their fingers out and get them stocked.

Mines pretty stock MPX spec - Himax 3516 outrunned, APC 11x5.5 and a CC45 ESC.

Agree with the comments about the tailwheel and main U/C mounting. But it went togther in half a day. I would say that the sticky decals are a bit of a pain - they are very thin and are more difficult to appy than previous MPX Foamies.
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Jul 16, 2006, 02:39 PM
Got shenpa?
flieslikeabeagle's Avatar
Originally Posted by dcalessi
I'm starting to put together my AcroMaster and I'm confused about gluing together the elopar parts.
The question I have is, should accelerator be used on the fuselage? Is it really necessary anywhere? I had problems building my easystar because it cured too fast.
Dan, when I was building my Twinstar II, I had a lot of the same questions. After looking at the vast expanse of Elapor that I was supposed to cover with CA, reading the stories of people super-gluing themselves to their Multiplex Magisters, and considering the unforgiving nature of putting together the two fuse halves with CA and accelerator - you have one shot to get it right and no possibility of adjustment - I really did not feel comfortable with that build method. The final straw was reading some very scary stories here on RC Groups from people who had inadvertently managed to splash microscopic amounts of CA into their eyes while working with it. CA bonds instantly to your cornea, and can render you blind in an instant!

Fortunately, some creative person thought of a much more pleasant alternative: using Scotch (3M) double-sided poster tape instead of CA to glue the fuselage halves together. Just think of the advantages: no irritating and allergy-inducing fumes, no nasty smell, no risk of gluing large areas of your skin to either the fuselage or your clothing, less expense (CA isn't cheap in large quantities), and a more forgiving build - the tape won't bond the fuselage halves firmly together till you apply some gentle pressure, so you have time to make any fine adjustments first.

After cleaning the mating surfaces of the two fuselage halves with alcohol, I cut and placed pieces of the poster tape wherever there was a flat area that would mate up with the other fuselage half, trimming the tape to shape where necessary. Finally I removed the backing from the tape, and then gently placed the other fuselage half down onto the first. A little gentle squeezing bonded the two halves firmly together, and my TSII has shown no sign of coming apart in the several months I've been flying it.

Jul 16, 2006, 06:37 PM
Happy Days
mudlark's Avatar
I stuck my halves together with uhu por. Works well plus flexable.

Got mine up for its' maiden, with my mate as well,,it was great. Had to move the CofG just forward of the 110mm and add 100% expo on every thing, now a lot tamer but it's there if you need it. The roll and spin rate are bonkers. Knife edge is great but keep the power up or it'll just sink.

Second flight was when I got the wot vibration, well just over half throttle actually. Figure it out at the time that I'd lost the cross peice (hadn't read the earlier post). My mate was suffering from the same problem with his.
We will be refixing a sturdier cross member soon. Well he will,, I on the other hand will be re-building the frount end after a very bad timing for the bec to cut, which resulted in no power and a steep inverted dive with no control responce. This is when you find the difference between an AM and a skycat. The frount end is not crash resistant AT ALL so I urge you all

Oh well out with the glue.
Jul 16, 2006, 08:29 PM
Registered User
Just to answer a couple questions i missed...

Harrier landing should be possible but landings are not my forte.... im a heli guy who flies airplanes like i fly me heli so its all well and good in the air... i can even do rolling circles with the AM but i dont have much practice landing. My orientation is there already from the helis but landing takes experience to get right i think.

Anyway for me the problem is that the landing gear are too flimsy and bouncy and when landing in grass that is not very short you tip forward on the prop. I havent broken a prop this way yet but you really want to make sure your engine is out.

I have now taken off the landing gear (i tried without the pants and it was no better) and im now landing it in a section of the field with 2 foot grass. Bringing it down slow and at a harrier angle and just dropping it into the grass with the power off. No problems with this.

However after saying all that, another guy at the field showed up today with one and i saw him land his several times on the wheels with no problems. They had just mowed landing strips very short today tho and also his plane is alot lighter than mine. He went with a much smaller outrunner and prop and hsi battery is half the size of mine. (im running 3S2P 4200mah - he is running 3s1p 2000mah). Mine definetly is heavier but also has more power.
Jul 17, 2006, 08:52 AM
Fly Fly Fly Crash
Dragon 2's Avatar


First off I would like to say I'm sorry for asking a question that has been answered before. Sometimes I dont read a whole thread due to to work 10 hr days.I have been told this before too.Second thanks for the AM. I got it last friday.I will figure out my power source and wont ask anymore already answered questions. D2
Jul 17, 2006, 10:43 AM
Registered User
TexasFlyer's Avatar
Originally Posted by Pjotrrr
You can call them too, Stefan Hoellein speaks english

They are closed from Juli 31 till August 23...
I sent an email to Stefan last week and got this response:
"...we don't stock Acromaster at the moment and it is not expected to come befor our summer vacation :-(. "

So it appears that both Europe and US will need to wait a little longer for more AMs...
Jul 17, 2006, 11:05 AM
Me likes Depron...
Pjotrrr's Avatar has them in stock, I ordered a second one over there last week for my brother.
That one was delivered in five days, building it now
Jul 17, 2006, 11:40 AM
Senior User
Jeremy Z's Avatar
Originally Posted by Dragon 2
First off I would like to say I'm sorry for asking a question that has been answered before. Sometimes I dont read a whole thread due to to work 10 hr days.I have been told this before too.Second thanks for the AM. I got it last friday.I will figure out my power source and wont ask anymore already answered questions. D2
No problem Dragon. Most of us do it from time to time. I just thought I'd mention it before this thread gets to 200+ pages.
Jul 17, 2006, 11:48 AM
Senior User
Jeremy Z's Avatar
Originally Posted by AnnihilaT
Here is another tip. Dont use CA to secure the cross member behind the motor bulkhead which stiffens up the motor mount frame. Harmonic vibes or whatever from a large outrunner motor will eventually just crack the ca joints loose and then ALL HELL BREAKS LOOSE!

Use something stronger like epoxy or drill straight thru it and put a very thick CA tube thru the whole thing and epoxy it in place. Its a bit too flimsy in this area to last for long if you are using an aggressive prop.
Just a question for those of you who are having problems with vibrations and this stiffener breaking loose: Are you balancing your props? After trying it on a few SF props a couple months ago, I am a believer in doing this. It makes a HUGE difference, and especially so on larger diameter props.

I only read that after I had CA'd mine in, or I would've roughed it up and used epoxy. I'm going to balance my prop and hope for the best, and use epoxy if it comes loose.

When you say "all hell breaks loose" when it comes off, what does this mean. I wouldn't think the plane would fly that much differently, maybe just make a lot of noise...
Jul 17, 2006, 11:16 PM
Registered User


I'm just now getting to work on mine some..... I always roughen the plastic a little before I use CA on it. I just sand with some 150 grit sanding block. Will epoxy even hold to the Elapor? Manual says no.... ???. Built the Sonic Liner, Easy Glider and the Funjet. Just medium CA and kicker on all....... of coarse this is going with a lot more torque and power.
Jul 17, 2006, 11:22 PM
Senior User
Jeremy Z's Avatar
STRINGFLY, epoxy doesn't sink into the "grain" of the Elapor the way it should. Some people use epoxy anyhow, but then when they have a "rough landing", the planes sometimes come apart a bit.

It will take a LOT of medium epoxy to build this plane: gluing the fuse, wings... I had great luck with GWS glue for those big glue-ups. Medium CA and kicker for everything else.
Jul 18, 2006, 04:40 AM
Registered User
Couple of observations

Epalor wheels last exactly 30 seconds on tarmac runways! If you fly from the black stuff - ditch the wheels and replace with something else.

The UC is very springy - I modified mine for its second outing - cross member tensioned with a band held by a cup hook. Much better, less bouncy.

This echo's nearly every comment I have ever heard about the canopy hatch clips - use magnets. I lost my canopy 3 times in 3 flights last night.
Jul 18, 2006, 04:42 AM
Happy Days
mudlark's Avatar
Well two evening sessions later and I've rebuilt the nose. I used a solvent based clear glue which doesn't melt the foam but swells it a bit, this is a good thing as it tends to seal the compressed bits (sort of uncompresses it)
As for the cross member brace what I did was to open out those two counter sunk holes in the motor mounting plates to 5mm and went all the way through the foam. I then pushed a 5mm carbon tube right through and glued in place,,, rock solid.
Will add some glass fibre packing tape to the out side for added strenght, not pritty but cheaper than a new plane.
Jul 18, 2006, 09:22 AM
Registered User
TexasFlyer's Avatar
Originally Posted by zippo
Couple of observations
The UC is very springy - I modified mine for its second outing - cross member tensioned with a band held by a cup hook. Much better, less bouncy.

Would you mind uploading a picture or diagram? I don't fully understand your solution. Sounds like a wonderful idea that would benefit everyone.


Jul 19, 2006, 04:57 PM
Registered User

Simplicity itself -- bit of wire bent into a shallow V shape, hold in place using the collets behind the wheels, then in the UC plate drill a small (1mm) hole in the centre of the cross piece (there is a small dimple in the moulding). Screw and cyano a small cup hook in place and the tension the cross member with a small elastic band. If you are familiar with the UC on the multiplex Magister - exactly the same idea.

I did take some pictures - but i seem to have mislaid my USB cable for the card reader!

The more I fly - the more I like this plane. What can I say - it just have very honest handling and its making even my attempts at aerobatics look good. You will not be disapointed with it.

Over in the UK we have a standard club aerobatic aircraft - called the WOT4 designed and still kitted by Chris Foss. Its been in production for something like 20 years and is still very popular - even in todays ARTF world. Virtually every modeller of a certain age has had or has a WOT4 in their fleet. It is just that good ... dare I suggest that the Acro Master might just be as good?

In the last couple of flights - it has stared to "resonate" at certain throttle settings. The motor mount rear cross member is still there and the glue joints are still sound. It still might be flexing - so the engine is coming out tomorrow and something more substantial is going to be fitted!
Last edited by zippo; Jul 19, 2006 at 05:07 PM.

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