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Old Dec 11, 2006, 04:38 PM
chichisport is offline
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If you want it superlight , you can try a depron Knockoff of this design . Some guys in Swiss made a depron Jumping-jack that was a good plane at half the weight.

Nose explosion: they recommend a motor,prop combo . Surely in the intruction is a warning about modifying the design . I always do mods ,sometimes they fail sometimes are a vast improvement, thatīs life.
This type of fail is surely present on those balsa planes with too light motor cages .
Also noted early in this thread is the fact that Modelmotors recommends folding props even for aerobatics ,flaping of the blades cures your problem to some exent , they want his bearings to last also.

Cheers.
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Old Dec 11, 2006, 06:42 PM
TheWingman is offline
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When in doubt, Wing it.
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I think Skiermike may already be from another planet....but seriously folks, the AM rocks! No problems with durability yet but I don't have a large number of flights on the airframe. It does inspire confidence...first flight for trimming resulted in a couple clicks of "up" then on to the fun stuff. I found myself doing aerobatics I have never done on a maiden before because the AM inspires so much confidence (overconfidence?).

Need to upgrade my TP Prolite 2100's before going too balistic in high-alpha. They have been only warm upon landing but I don't want to push them. Haven't looked at current draw yet but I can tell that the plane lacks punch in hover with the Eflite.10 and a 12X6 APC e prop and 40 A Speed control with AUW of 33.5 oz.

It's a nice canvas for artistic expression too. Photos to follow soon.
Old Dec 11, 2006, 07:17 PM
SD_Raptor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armengol
Hi guys,
Then came the third fly, and after some inverted barrel action, when cruising along to relax a bit... something went wrong: the fuse front end broke and the motor went away. Fortunately the pack showed on the front balancing it somewhat and the plane landed nicely, but still looking for my beloved 2820/10...
If you look at the broken front (pics enclosed) I see this is really TOO FRAGILE. Too small thickness of material here, this is elapor, not a solid thing. I will repair, but this plane need some tape or reinforcements here.... or had I a defective one and am alone on this? (my props are well balanced and everything sounded nice and right btw).
Regards
Josep
Josep,

I ripped the nose out of my AM on Saturday - Hyperion Z3013-14 with 12x6 prop. She flew great on 3s packs and after draining two packs I stuck in a 4s pack. Gave her full throttle to take off and the motor flew forward, taking the nose with it. The nose definitely has a torque limit which I exceeded with the 4s pack and big prop - I shoould have propped back to 11x5.5 or 10x5 but forgot.

I CA'd it all back together and will try it on only 3s from now on. I have some very light CA roving (like a tape but only the fibers) that I may wind around the nose to reinforce it.

I think the plane is designed fine for the recommended power setup - it certainly can't handle TOO much more.

Randy
Old Dec 11, 2006, 08:22 PM
punkindrublik is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD_Raptor

I ripped the nose out of my AM on Saturday
Sorry to hear that Randy

Did it have about the same tear pattern as Josep's??
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Old Dec 11, 2006, 08:36 PM
blucor basher is offline
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ExtremeFlight - 3DHS - Legacy
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I ripped the nose off of mine on Friday, tore off in the same place...but I hit the ground at full throttle. I CA'd and GOOP'ed it back together today and it flies fine. This plane is very durable (this was not my first crash) and it's easy to fix.
Old Dec 11, 2006, 09:38 PM
PGR is offline
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Low AltiDude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padesatka
You could try a planet with less gravity.
This may be the funniest thing I've ever read in RCGroups.

Pete (who's not that easy to get chuckling)
Old Dec 11, 2006, 09:46 PM
Trexflyr is offline
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What motor would work best for this plane?
Old Dec 12, 2006, 12:56 AM
cynjon is offline
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Retired USAF
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Are the wheelpants supposed to be a Left and Right set, or are there two identical pairs? Mine came with two identical pairs, but at least it's foam--I was able to move the plastic re-inforcement to the opposite half and make a L/R pair. I think I'll be mostly flying off grass, so I don't know how long the wheelpants will be on it anyhow...
Old Dec 12, 2006, 11:00 AM
SD_Raptor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by punkindrublik
Sorry to hear that Randy

Did it have about the same tear pattern as Josep's??

Yes, a very similar break. Every thing fit back together nicely so it will fly and look decent again but before trying so much power I will have to make reinforcements.

When I was repairing, it was obvious that this was a twisting tear from torque, not a fracture from too much weight in the nose combined with hard landings. Reinforcing with CF roving shouldn't add more than a few grams if I am judicious with the epoxy. I'll have to remember to get some longer uring time epoxy as well - the 30 minute sutuff will cure too fast to get it sufficnetly thin and uniform.

I'll post pics when I do the reinforcement.

Randy
Old Dec 12, 2006, 11:29 AM
armengol is offline
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Randy my experiences with Elapor and epoxy reinforcements from past models are not that good. Much better is to use Cyano and some carbon or glass fibers, even glass fiber reinforced tape.
Good luck anyway, unfortunately I lost most of the front part (and my beloved 2820, not yet found and recovered) and am doing a wood motor mount and God knows what else to let it look not much ugly :-S
Josep
Old Dec 12, 2006, 12:29 PM
punkindrublik is offline
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Yeah, stay away from epoxy...

Brian
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Old Dec 12, 2006, 01:11 PM
bobber is offline
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Flyin brick
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From my experience epoxy doesn't stick well to elapor..... CA or PU glue is the choice
Old Dec 12, 2006, 03:09 PM
Mike Smart is offline
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A question for AcroMaster owners - have you sanded off all the moulding marks, even if you are not painting it? Do the stickers apply OK if you don't sand the moulding marks off?

Mike
Old Dec 12, 2006, 03:17 PM
jantel is offline
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Jantel
Mike

I sanded mine before assembly, this made things much simpler - not a 5 minute job either but a little patience and 400 grade Wet / Dry saw it done.

I glued the wings and fuz then placed all the stickers before final assembly they stick well to the Elapor as long as your greasy fingers haven't touched the virgin surface.

Excellent model with the recommended Himax

Terry
Old Dec 12, 2006, 03:33 PM
chichisport is offline
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If you heat slightly the stickers onces in place and pass a soft cloth over then , the film softens and adapts better to the rough surface , permanent gluing but test in scrap or in the inner of the wings first , too much heat and your AM will look like it was bite by a snake !!! The pressed (and flat) balls in the surface will take his original shape , ughhh.


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