Thread Tools
Jun 16, 2002, 05:19 PM
Thread OP

Bluecor FoamFighter #2 the P-47D

Due to the intrest in my Buffalo, I'll document the construction of
my P-47D right here in the Foamies forum, step by step.


Step 1. Buy bluecore foam, 30 bucks for 50'x4'. To build the plane
it will require 4 sq. ft. to build one plane, thats 10 airframes for
30 bucks!

step 2. cut from the bundle 2, 2'x4' sections. Trim the edges where the folds are.

step 3. peel the plastic film from both sides of the sheet. Do both

step 4. Lay one sheet out on a flat smooth building surface.

step 5. Apply spray adhesive (I use Elmer's brand) to the back
of the template sheet.

step 6. Cut templates from sheet and apply to bluecor. The long axis of the fuse parts should be in the same direction as the waves in the foam. (see photo)

step 7. Cut out the parts, while the template is still attached, mark the center on both ends of each part. This is important as
these marks are needed to assemble the fuse sections.
Also note which way side is to the front.

step 8. Fun Time! For those who have not messed with this material cut out a rectangular chunk of foam and practice
bending, rolling, pinching, shaping and squeezing this stuff
to get a feel of what it takes to make that nice, round, scale
looking fuse that will make all yer buddies go gonzo when
you tell them it's not a kit or an arf, it's scratchbuilt!

You should notice that when you try to make too tight a bend
the foam will crack. On pieces like the tailcone you will need
to 1. sand from the inside to thin the piece out where it folds and
where it joins together at the rudder hinge. Also the tailcone
and the rear part of the fuse does not need to join and form
a perfect tube, you can sand an angle at the joint to be glued.
2. place a small amount of packing tape on the outside of tight
bends or folds. This will keep the foam from splitting. It is only
temporary and can be removed when I say so.

step 9. Now that you know how to bend and shape you can glue
and tape! I use 15 min epoxy as it gives me plenty of time to tape
up the part and allows time for the glue to soak into the foam.
Use many pieces of tape and pull them tight. You may need to retape the first or second sections of tape as it's hard to get the
first one as tight as it should be. (see photos)
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Jun 16, 2002, 05:20 PM
Thread OP
Next picture
Jun 17, 2002, 07:06 PM
Thread OP
Fusealage: continued,

Step 10. Join the fuse sections together one at a time, with 15
min epoxy. The sections will not line up perfectly, just get them
close and keep in mind that the whole fuse will be sanded to
shape later so the sections should not be misaligned by more than a 1/16". Also the individual sections will need to be sanded
on the butt joints to mate the sections. The sections as cut from
the templates are only "in the ballpark". My fuse suffered from
a bit of neglect and is not perfectly straight so keep in mind alot
of sanding and test fitting will be required.

Step 11. Cut out a three chunks of bluecore. Trace the firewall/
motor mount onto one of these pieces and then cut 2 more with
the "grain" at 90 and 45 degree angles. Glue em' all together
with your favorite foam glue (I use contact cement, Southern Sourgum).

Now we need to build the wing
Jun 17, 2002, 07:30 PM
Thread OP
The Wing.

Step 1. Lay out your 2nd sheet of bluecor (skinned, both sides)
on the work surface. Cut out a wing tempate.

Step 2. Apply spray adhesive to both sides of the template and
let dry.

Step 3. place template on the foam so that the leading edge
is going with the "grain" and center (as best you can) the leading
edge in the middle of one of the "waves" in the foam. Now trace
an outline of the template onto the foam with a sharpie and
straight edge.

Step 4. Flip the template over using the leading edge as the
"hinge" line (see photo) and trace the mirror image.

Step 5. Decide on the location of the spar and draw it in on both
sides of the wing (see photo).
Jun 17, 2002, 07:50 PM
Thread OP
The wing: continued

Step 6. Using a new blade and a straight edge, cut the wings out
from the sheet of bluecore.

Step 7. Mark the fold line (leading edge) on the other side (outside) of the wing halves.

Step 8. Place a strip of 3/4" strapping tape on the leading edge
mark (see photo). It is important to use strapping tape as it add
a great amount of strength to the wing and ensures a uniform
leading edge. (see photo)
Jun 17, 2002, 07:51 PM
Thread OP
Photo for last post
Jun 17, 2002, 08:47 PM
It's a Great Day to Fly
LenBFP's Avatar
Nice technique Travis. When you write of the templates, is this in the generic sense, or are there some templates for this beauty.

Jun 17, 2002, 09:15 PM
Thread OP
The templates are made by me. When they are perfected I will
sell them as full plans with a manual. Ezoners who want just a
template file in AutoCad 2000 format can have it free. Just email
me. Be warned, it ain't perfect but it's what I'm using.
Jun 18, 2002, 05:55 PM
It's a Great Day to Fly
LenBFP's Avatar

Think I'll work along with you. Probably use Depron instead of Blucor. I have a Corsair I want to build and will get some practice using this technique with the P47.

What size motor are you shooting for?

Jun 18, 2002, 08:52 PM
Thread OP
All my planes are designed for the s400 direct drive. Note that my
planes are not to a fixed scale. I scale the plane to fit in the 16oz
range, 36" wing or under.

Sorry, but tonight is a glue drying night, no new photos or steps.

I have been getting requests for a twin. Suggestions?
Jun 18, 2002, 08:59 PM
a DH Mosquito would be a beauty!
Jun 19, 2002, 08:39 PM
Thread OP
The wing continued.

It may be hard to see in the photo but there is a shallow vee
cut in the back side of the LE. The TE and tips are tapered from
the inside. I use a small hot wire to trim most of this out just to save on sanding, but it can all be done with a sanding block if
you don't have a hot wire.
Jun 19, 2002, 08:53 PM
Thread OP
The next photo shows the spar placement. I use 1/4" sq spruce
for the spar. I don't run the spar full span, instead I keep them
about 3" short of the tip to save on wieght and also to allow
the foam wing to taper nicely.
Jun 19, 2002, 09:01 PM
Thread OP
That previous photo also shows the placement of the contact
cement on the TE and tips
Jun 19, 2002, 09:25 PM
Thread OP
The next photo shows the wings after the folding process.
Please note: I have NEVER had two wing halves come out identical. It's the nature of this material to defy precision so I don't worry about it .

When you fold the wing try to be consistant for both sides.
I can't describe the technique as it changes from wing to wing,
just try to do each side the same way.

Quick Reply

Thread Tools