Thread Tools
Feb 01, 2006, 10:32 AM
No Guts No Glory
kestrel2003's Avatar
Thread OP
Discussion

Estar Bronco


Hi guys

I just secured one for me, hope to see some building threads soon, so do not have to do the mistakes first

Not that I do not have enough to build, nor do I have the time I would like for my hobby....


http://www.estarmodels.com/shop/index.php
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Feb 24, 2006, 06:43 AM
Registered User
CustomPC's Avatar
I've got one too and started the build last weekend. So far i've only got the rudders, elevator and horizontal stab built. I'm planning to start the build in earnest in 1 week's time.

How are you planning to power yours?

I've gone with 2 Mega 16/7/7's with cobri 4.22:1 gearboxes and VarioProp 8.9 props and they will be powered by a Thunder Power 4S2P 2650 Pro Lite pack.
Feb 24, 2006, 03:25 PM
No Guts No Glory
kestrel2003's Avatar
Thread OP

2 Hackers or two Tsumami outrunner


I may go for two hacker B-20-18L (theycome with Maxon gears)or two tsunami Outrunner. I am not sure just yet. I have to Ramoser Variprops 3 blade Props and will skip the Undercarriage.

It is a price question, the Hacker are 200 Sfr (ca. 150 USD) a piece without the controller. But I am so happy with the other Hackers I have I may commit financial folly once more

I am looking forwared to your building pics and wish you lots of luck in getting it in the air.

Ps: I will have more time in 3 weeks, after some exams, to start mine.
Last edited by kestrel2003; Feb 24, 2006 at 05:24 PM.
Feb 24, 2006, 11:48 PM
Registered User
CustomPC's Avatar
I'm sticking with a stick mount gearbox so that i can keep the correct thrustlines through the cowls.
Mar 24, 2006, 09:22 PM
Registered User
I don't know how far along you guys are, but I'm into the fuselage construction now. Check your formers F17 and F18. Mine did not have a notch to accept the stringer F27. It's an easy fix.

Also, at step 13, the instructions refer to edges F23a and F23b. These should be F30 and F31.

Bob Fox
Last edited by ninpofox; Mar 25, 2006 at 11:56 AM.
Mar 25, 2006, 12:44 AM
Registered User
When you get to the tail cone, you'll have to "warp" a few of the pieces. Two of F23c, Two of F25b, Two of F1c, Two of F32, Two of F33, parts 24c and 26b. I soak mine in hot water until they are flexible and then pin or clamp in place while I glue them. The frame pieces are the toughest since they are thick. Also, a notch is missing from each F1c that can easily be cut before glueing.

This would have been a good piece to have vacuum formed in the kit.

Bob Fox
Mar 25, 2006, 12:47 AM
Registered User
CustomPC's Avatar
Mine Too.

I've finished all of the construction and now doing all the final sanding into shape before covering.


Here's where i'm at so far.
Mar 25, 2006, 12:53 AM
Registered User
CustomPC's Avatar
How are you going to power yours ninpofox?

Mine is 2 x Mega 16/7/7 with 4:1 cobri gearbox and 3-bladed VarioProp's with 8.9" blades and set at about 7" pitch. Each motor is controlled by an MGM Compro Easy 25A ESC which are both connected to a single Thunderpower 4S2P 2650mAh LiPo. The RX and servos are powered by a UBEC.


So far, everything on the scales tallies up to 1420gm before covering.
Mar 25, 2006, 01:31 AM
Registered User
CustomPC's Avatar
Oh yeah...

Another Tip is to Put the Pushrod tubes in before you put the top and bottom sheets on the booms. It will save you a lot of headaches.
Mar 25, 2006, 12:10 PM
Registered User
CustomPC, thanks for the tip on the booms.

I'm currently planning on using Uberall Nippy Black 1608/160 motors with 6x4 3-blade props, Castle Creations Pheonix 25 speed control, (2) Thunder Power TP2100 (Prolite) LiPo, and a seperate battery for the receiver and servos.

I estimate my ready to fly weight at 54 oz. (1530 g).

I ran this setup through MotoCalc and it reports that I should have excellent performance with approximately 10 minutes of flight time (actual miles may vary )

Bob Fox
Mar 29, 2006, 08:58 PM
Registered User
Finishing up the booms now. I made new firewalls to mount the Nippy Black motors. In my kit, the alignment holes on parts B22 did not line up with the formers B16, B17, and B18 (easy fix to re-cut). At step 6, I had the longerons glued to the formers first and then sand the taper by folding a piece of sand paper and pulling it between the longerons until they are to shape. Followed CustomPC's tip and glued the pushrod tubes in place before gluing on the sides. I also ran a piece of nylon fishing line inside the right boom to help in pulling the servo lead wire through when it comes time to mount the vertical stab.

Bob Fox
Mar 29, 2006, 09:44 PM
Registered User
CustomPC's Avatar
I think i had the same problems with the booms. I can't remember exactly.

I know that for the first boom i glued all the longerons and formers and then sheet the sides only to find that the side sheeting didn't quite match the lugs on the formers.

On the second boom i glued the longeron and formers concurrently with the side sheets and the boom came out perfect.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ninpofox
I also ran a piece of nylon fishing line inside the right boom to help in pulling the servo lead wire through when it comes time to mount the vertical stab.
I didn't think of that. I can see i'm going to have some fun threading the servo lead through the boom. I have some thin music wire which will probably do the trick.


I'm still busily sanding all the parts but it's starting to look really good now.
I'm going to be covering mine in Grey Oracover and possibly with the top of the wing in white as per the pic of the scale model below.
Mar 30, 2006, 01:15 AM
Registered User
do you think 2 x axi 2212/34 will be able to drive it
Mar 30, 2006, 01:44 AM
Registered User
Firefly too, Those motors will work if you have the right combination of batteries and prop. Also, I think you'll have to keep the overall weight of the plane down. Do you have a specific combination of batteries and speed controls you want to use?

Bob Fox
Mar 30, 2006, 01:49 AM
Registered User
CustomPC's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefly_too
do you think 2 x axi 2212/34 will be able to drive it

No, You need to run 9" props for scale reasons and to clear the side of the fuselage.

Motor calc predicts the motors on 3S will only put out 135W between them and Estart reccemend 300W.

If you want to use an outrunner the the Hacker A30 28S looks the best.


Quick Reply
Message:

Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion eStar Bronco ampster Electric Warbirds 4 Jun 06, 2007 05:03 PM