Jet Hanger Hobbies A-7 D/E ARF - Page 66 - RC Groups
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Jun 30, 2011, 03:53 PM
Registered User
...changed the servo with two different ones..still having the problem...i am almost sure that are the collars that still got a tiny wee bit of play. i used thread lock and longer screws but no luck any idea on how to lock the collars? Thanks...
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Jun 30, 2011, 09:18 PM
deltas are cool
AIR SALLY's Avatar
are the brass tubes hallow ? or is there some solid metal rod or C/F rod pressed into the tube where the collar tight'ns down on the brass
Jun 30, 2011, 09:45 PM
Registered User
jefffassbinder's Avatar

Brass Tube

First of all is this the current production version with panel lines? Second are the brass tubes filled with epoxy and or some form of solid inside. On mine they were filled but only part way. What I ended up doing was to put a solid rod in the exact inner diameter of the brass and glue in with epoxy. Then without flat spots I was able to tighten down the collar. Also if your collar has two hole locations you can use one grub screw and one 4/40 a 1" or 3/4" long as per the instructions. It's been a few years since I put a few of these together but the one I still have works fine and flys great. If you not sure you could if in doubt try Larry and purchase another set of stabs. But they should not be able to tilt up and down. You links need to be quality Dubro or sullivan and the horns use dubro or something that allows you to use maybe a dubro type ball if necessary. I'm using overkill on servos I have 200 oz on each side. Only need 70 oz. but that is not a big deal. Just make sure you linkages are slop free and then you only need to worry about the aileron type like that you thread onto the 4/40 bolt with a fange as again per the plans. It does work great, and the brass sleeve than extends into the stab also help to minimize the lateral play in the stab. Well avoid making flat spots on brass as it is more than soft enough when you tigthen down on the 4/40 remember you can also use a second screw and if your collar doesn't have a quick run at a drill press and a tap and your money. Good Luck.

Jeff Fassbinder
Jul 01, 2011, 12:26 AM
Registered User
Thanks jeff! the version that i have has panel lines and the rods are full with epoxy. At the moment i soaked the thing in thread lock and made another hole with an extra screw. So far seems that i have no play but i haven't used the radio yet. i will let you know tomorrow..hope it works..
Thanks every one for the support
Jul 01, 2011, 04:34 PM
Registered User
ok eventually made it work!!! It took me a whole week!!! Now.. another exciting part fitting the fan.....does any one can tell me the length of the rings that go in the front and the back of the fan... in the instructions it is not said and neither at what distance to screw the fan...
Jul 01, 2011, 04:42 PM
Registered User
bri6672's Avatar
Originally Posted by Fab3105
ok eventually made it work!!! It took me a whole week!!! Now.. another exciting part fitting the fan.....does any one can tell me the length of the rings that go in the front and the back of the fan... in the instructions it is not said and neither at what distance to screw the fan...
Congrats on working out the slop issue! I think the fan position might be a personel preference since the model was originally designed around glow ducted fan. It will also effect the CG. I am guessing the further back the better so there is room for the main landing gear when retracted and I believe you want to add weight to the tail so that could help. I am sure one of the guys that has flown one might have more info.
Jul 01, 2011, 07:06 PM
Registered User
thank you! if i set full it forward i have no problem with the gears retracted...
Jul 03, 2011, 12:05 AM
Registered User
the engine is in place but i have a gap of 0.5cm between the fan's aft shroud and the tail it going to be a problem?
Jul 03, 2011, 12:08 AM
deltas are cool
AIR SALLY's Avatar
it needs to be seal off ...normal ops is to overlap the tail pipe at least 3/8" over the shroud.and tape on real good ...if it comes off or leaks thats not good.
Jul 03, 2011, 08:55 PM
Registered User
Motor is done i have never had a plane so stuffed!!...Now thanks to every one but this plane it is such a pain in the a@@! The instructions are awful... and i might be retarded but everything is such a pain..could some one suggest me how to fit the pylons? how do you put the wood pieces inside the pylons? where are the hard point to drill the hole? the whole top part of the pylon is the same!!
Thanks a lot
Jul 04, 2011, 01:05 AM
The RC Geek
JetMang's Avatar
There are full size drawings of the pylons showing the assembly of the aluminum tubes and the wood blocks and the spacing of everything. to get those assemblies into the pylons, you'll need to create openings in the pylons to receive them. it's not hard work, just tedious since there are 6 of them. when you make the openings in the pylons, make sure you check them to the hard points in the wings first.

Jul 14, 2011, 10:34 PM
Registered User
started to work on the doors...what a pain in the a@@!!!
This plane to build it is anything than an ARF!!
I feel like crying!!!
Jul 16, 2011, 12:31 AM
Registered User
Jetnfast's Avatar
The JHH kits are the real deal, a true "builders ARF". Lot's of work, but the result should be nice!
Jul 16, 2011, 08:54 AM
Registered User
if you say so...i found the instructions very difficult, a lot of update to find on the web to correct several flaws...When I buy an ARF is because i want the things to be straight forward...I don't know you...
Jul 16, 2011, 10:44 AM
Dream Build Fly Scale
strictlyscale's Avatar
The doors can be a challenge, but worth the effort. While it is called an ARF, you can rest assured that yours will be unique and a real head turner. I found it helpful to put the doors aside for a few days when it became tough and turn my attention to another task. Then after a break revisit the doors. Keep at it!

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