Empire RC's Hyperion Brand Sukhoi 31 ARF Review - RC Groups
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Empire RC's Hyperion Brand Sukhoi 31 ARF Review

Mike Llewellyn finds this exciting new scale electric aerobat to be not only 98% pre-built as promised, not only made of exceptionally high quality materials, but also as aggressive and aerobatically capable as advertised!

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Wingspan:37” 941mm
Wing Area:229sq” 14.8dm2
Wing type:Semi-symmetrical two piece
Kit weight:10oz 280g
AUW weight:20oz 560g
Length:29.4” 747mm
Wing loading:12.5 oz/sq. ft.
Servos:4 – Waypoint 6g BB
Transmitter:Airtronics RD8000
Receiver:Berg 5 Channel DSP
Battery:Hyperion LiteStorm 1200 3s LiPoly
Motor:Hyperion Z-2213/20
ESC:Hyperion Titan 30 AMP
US distributor:Empire RC

Hyperion has released three new park flyer scale acrobatic aircraft: the Cap 232, Extra 300L and this the Sukhoi SU-31. These are fine looking scale ARF aircraft. When they say 98% complete they are not kidding. There is very little left for the builder to do, so they are a perfect choice for someone wanting to get into the air fast. Having flown models of CAP’s and Extra’s before, I knew the Sukhoi was the one for this review.

I was immediately impressed by the looks of this ARF while browsing the main page of the Aircraft World website. The Russian heritage and amazing acrobatic qualities made this model a must build.

The review package was shipped from Japan and arrived in Texas in just 3 days. It was well packaged and the contents in the kit box were very well protected. Empire RC is the Hyperion distributor here in the US. They have a number of vendors that can ship these Hyperion ARF’s from the US as well. Please see: Empire RC for purchase details.

The full scale Sukhoi SU-31

The Sukhoi SU-31 is one of the latest single seat aerobatic aircraft from Sukhoi. Introduced in 1994 the Sukhoi SU-31 is still one of the highest performance piston acrobat’s made. It is being flown by members of the Russian aerobatic team and remains one of the world’s most nimble aircraft -- holding that title for more than 10 years is no small feat! With the 400HP motor, it is also among the most powerful.

Of note everything behind the cockpit is composite rather than the normal tubular steel. This reduces the weight of the aircraft by over 30kgs. That is very significant for an aircraft of this type.

In terms of flying qualities the SU-31 was designed to be a tad more unstable than the SU-26 and is more suited for the free-style flying done today. As you could imagine, it snap rolls much faster than it’s predecessor the SU-26.

The SU-31 has a continued amazing track record winning successive World and European championships.

Kit Contents

Kit includes:

  • laser cut parts built up into beautiful assemblies!
  • fiberglass cowling
  • decals, not pre-applied
  • laser cut stick & box (outrunner) mounts both included

Kit requires:

  • Power pack "HP-Z2213-20 full set", includes motor & Titan 20
  • APC 9x4.5E prop
  • 3S battery, 17A draw (Hyperion LSVX1200-3S recommended)
  • 4 servos, 7-10g each
  • Servo extensions
  • 5-ch minimum transmitter

Part weights

As with all ARF kits, the builder has little control over the final flying weight. The first impression was this was going to be very light. The contents of the kit were removed from the box and weighed.

ARF Weights
Wing Panels, 2 84g
Cowl 34g
Fuse and tail surfaces 105g
Canopy 34g
LG/Wheels 34g
Hardware 10g
Total weight 301g (10.75oz)

It is clear from these weights this plane will be an excellent performer with a light wing loading.


Assembly is correct, just not much for the builder to do. The instruction manual is the pictorial type, with little text. The Su-31 ARF is very nearly ready to fly out of the box...they state 98% done.

Done for you:

  • Hinges are slotted and ready to glue.
  • Wings remain removable and need not be joined!
  • Wing eye hooks pre-installed to rubber band the panels to the fuselage.
  • Covering is all done.
  • The canopy and cowl are pre-painted.

The builder will need to:

trim the canopy,

  • apply decals, if desired,
  • install landing gear,
  • install radio and power systems.

So for most builders 2-3 hours will have this airplane ready to fly!


Wing highlights:

  • The wing panels come separate and are mounted via a ply joiner... they are removable! No gluing.
  • The wing spar box and fuselage both have an installed plywood box for this ply wing joiner to slide into.
  • The wing roots have open eye hooks installed, so a rubber band can pull the wing together and keep it tight against the internal ply box. This makes for a simple and effective wing joining method!
  • Wing servo mounts pre-installed, but the covering needed to be trimmed.

No servo wire string guide was included, but the servo wires easily dropped right to the root without much coaxing at all. If necessary you can tie a small nut to a string and drop that through the open structure to allow for a string pull for the servo wires.

With two aileron servos and a computer radio, setup of flaperons is easy. This allows the use of both aileron and flap functions.

The ARF includes laser cut plywood control horns. I did divert from instructions and used Dubro micro nylon control horns. This was simply a matter of preference, the supplied ply horns would have worked equally as well. I also used Dubro mini E/Z connectors (not supplied) on the servo ends. These mini E/Z connectors are great time savers.


Next I added the tail feathers to the fuselage. The surfaces were straight and true with no warping. Also a plus, the surfaces are all built up to save tail weight. Covering must be cut away from the fuselage where the horizontal stabilizer attaches, but the covering is already removed from the fuse for the vertical stabilizer slot. That is a quick job, with a new sharp #11 blade. Next I removed covering where the surfaces will be glued into the fuselage. Make sure you don’t score the wood on the surfaces, as that can cause them to fail.

The fuselage slots for both the vertical and horizontal stabilizers are true and straight. This is a welcome plus! The tail surfaces also fit into the slots with a nice friction fit. I used thin CA to secure the tail feathers to the fuselage.

I did divert once more. The model calls for a wire tail skid (included), but I like the positive response of a steerable tail wheel. It is easy to add, I used a piece of 1/16” ply and an old brass servo grommet, inserting a piece of wire and I had my own custom steerable tail wheel.


Not much to do here either. We needed to remove the covering over the wing insert areas. The wing actually slid inside the fuselage sides, allowing the wing root rib to sit against a plywood box. The hole cut in the side of the fuselage accepted the wing with a nice friction fit. The ply wing joiner fit perfectly into the internal fuse box and wing halves as well. No question this plane was “jig” built and parts fit is great.

I had to drill holes into the fuselage gear mount for the aluminum landing gear. The fuselage gear mount is nicely secured with additional bracing inside for those not so perfect landings, or grass field operations. The aluminum gear is pre-drilled for both the wheels and the mount screws. Three wood screws were included for attachment of the aluminum gear to the fuselage. I used CA to harden the surrounding wood and make stripping or pullout harder before installing the screws.

The landing gear is the dural aluminum type. It is very light and tall a welcome feature. A nine inch propeller allows an inch of clearance.


The canopy cut lines were molded in and careful cutting resulted in a great fit. The canopy slid up under the cowl in the front and attached by screws to the fuselage sides. Take your time while cutting the canopy, as it is easy to cut too much.

The canopy front lip is intended to go in between the fuse former and cowl, but the fuse former in my plane was a bit too tall. I simply sanded that former down and the canopy fit in between the former and cowl perfectly. This was the only misfit part in the entire plane.

The instructions had me screw the canopy rear to the fuse, but I prefer magnets so I installed on them in the top of the canopy and a small screw in the fuse. This allowed for no tool removal of the canopy for battery changes.

The distinctive cowl and large bubble canopy are focal points for this airplane and they both look fantastic.


The cowl is a work of art. It is all fiberglass and it has a great deal of detail molded in. No question it will also be very durable (but of course still could be damaged). The good with the bad, it is also heavy. Color match is good from cowl to the red covering, but the canopy red paint is slightly darker than the cowl.

Radio installation

The receiver was placed on the floor of the fuselage partially under the servos. I am using the Berg 5ch DSP receiver using channel 5/6 for the flaperon function.

Motor mounting

Now it is time to attach the motor mount. The outrunner box motor mount was the most assembly on the entire project. (A stick motor mount is also included!) The motor mount is a box of lite-ply, laser cut and keyed for square assembly. The builder must be careful here as there is a right and left side for proper right and down motor thrust. The following instructions are not included in the manual so please make note when building the mount:

Building notes:

  • Included Box Mount for Z22 Motor has right thrust built in. Make sure you don't assemble the mount backwards. Recently-produced kits have a notch at front of mount LEFT side plate (viewed from top-back of model). Assemble the mount to the model without glue to check that you have right-thrust.
  • SU-31 and Extra 300L do not have down thrust built in to the Z22 motor mount in first production version. Check yours to see if there is down thrust. If not, file the slots in mount side plates such that the motor-mount plate includes about 1.5 degrees down thrust.

Note courtesy of the Hyperion Manual updates webpage.


Covering used on the model is very opaque, always a plus. It arrived without a single wrinkle. This is a first for any ARF for me. It is a very low heat covering, so be careful if you do have some areas that requiring re-shrinking.

The SU-31 ARF’s are available in both red and blue finishes. Both are real lookers.

Power system

Hyperion Z-2213-20 Motor

  • Motor statistics:
  • Stator Diameter – 22mm
  • Magnet length – 13mm
  • Turns - 20
  • Weight - 53g
  • Shaft - 3mm
  • Max efficiency current - 8-14 Amps
  • Peak current – 18 Amps
  • Resistance Ohm – 0.102
  • Io A – 0.65
  • KV (rpm/v) - 1025

My thoughts on the motor: The motor was very impressive, never skipping a beat. It pulled this 20oz ship with significant authority. It is clear that more of these fine motors will be in my future.

The motor fit inside the ply box like a glove. The motor mount box is long, extending the motor shaft directly to the nose of the cowl. The precut firewall had the motor standard 16mmx19mm bolt spacing pattern, to allow the use of motors with that spacing pattern. Clearance around the motor is very limited so do note that.

The battery tray was already installed and is made from lite ply. It has cooling holes everywhere, so I added a thin 3/32” piece of ½”x 4” piece of balsa to allow the hook and loop fastener to attach with more adhesive grip. The ESC wire routing was done without any modification directly, under the ply battery tray. Direct cooling will flow to the speed controller. ESC motor and battery wires were just long enough to extend to the end of the battery tray.


The Hyperion motors have been around for some time now. They are very high quality and I have been impressed by their looks. This was my first Hyperion motor and it did not disappoint. The fit and finish was excellent, bearings were smooth and cogging was comparable to most of my out-runners. Performance was stellar as can be seen.

Amp draws

The motor produced the following results using the following propellers:

Motor statistics
APC-e Props Amps Watts Voltage RPM
8x6 14.3 148 10.5 9000
9x4.5 15.3 150 10.4 9400
9x6 16.5 166 10.4 8500
GWS 9x5 14.4 147 10.4 9300

As can be seen, this motor is very strong and will give this airplane significant motivation. The bearings and cogging were as expected and as can be seen it is powerful and smooth. I highly recommend it.

Titan 30amp ESC

Hyperion Titan 30A brushless ESC

  • Size – 44x27x8mm
  • Weight – 27.1g
  • Programmable for the following settings via TX stick:
  • Brake – On / Off*
  • Battery type – NiMh/Nicad or LiPoly 2s or 3s*
  • Soft Start – On* / Off
  • Switching Frequency – 8 kHz* / 16 kHz
  • Timing modes – Auto* / 7 deg / 30 deg
  • Motor Rotation – Reverse off* / Reverse on
  • LVC cutoff modes – Hard / Soft*
  • Governor mode – Off* / Range 1 / Range 2 / Range 3

Programmable for the following settings via Hyperion meter or PC software cable

NiCad/NiMh voltage – 0.6v* / 0.7v / 0.8v / 0.9v

  • LiPoly cutoff voltage – 2.7v / 2.8v* / 2.9v / 3.0v / 3.1v
  • Default ESC settings noted by asterisk

My thoughts on the controller: The ESC performed flawlessly out of the box. It started and ran the outrunner smoothly.

I did not need the 30 amp capability this ESC can sustain for this application, but knew the extra AMP capacity would come in handy on a future review. In fact Hyperion recommends their 20 amp ESC for this application, more than sufficient. After soldering my preferred Sermos/Anderson connectors to the battery end, I attached the 3.5mm Hyperion connectors to the ESC and motor. These fine connectors allow for ESC or motor swaps to be made quickly.

The ESC is covered in clear shrink wrap. The component and chip attachment and soldering are neat and tidy. On the FET side the controller has a large heat sync attached, a nice touch. Wires on both the motor and battery end are just a tad short for my taste.

The ESC starts the Hyperion motor smoothly and quickly. I did not make changes to the factory default settings for the initial tests. LVC worked properly, something I always test as our LiPoly batteries are expensive. The Titan ESC does have programmable settings and can be changed with either transmitter stick settings, PC software/serial connector or via the Hyperion emeter.

I found the transmitter stick programming easy to use and it worked well. Full instructions are included with the Titan ESC instruction sheet.


The Hyperion LiteStorm 1200 battery is new to the RC scene. It is touted as a 20c pack with burst rates to 30c. Here is what the Aircraft-World site has to say about these Hyperion batteries:

"These new Hyperion VX-Series 20C+ packs deliver the highest voltage and retained capacity in their class, and in very slim format packs. We are truly impressed by their performance. We have tested virtually every other cell type on the market, and have yet to find one that beats the VX in usable power over many cycles. On left is factory data for the VX1200 cell, for example. At 15C (18A continuous) and 3.0V cut-off the delivered capacity is over 96%!! And 15C aging tests show that the packs are extremely robust, losing under 10% of capacity after 200 cycles, on average.”

Hyperion HP-LVX1200 20-30c packs

  • Cells - 3s
  • Capacity - 1200 mAh
  • Weight – 99g / 3.5oz
  • Size – 31.5 x 100 x 16mm

My thoughts on this pack: The pack performs very well. It holds voltage very well, including the 16+ AMP draw testing.

The battery performed very well at the ~15 Amp discharge rates used on this plane. I am not going to jump into the 20c debate but note the discharge curves listed on the website sure are promising. Hyperion HP-LV1200 discharge data. This battery held voltage well under 14-16amp loads in testing.



Note there is a change to the included instruction book on the CG. Please note it should be set to 50mm (not 60mm as indicated) for the initial flights.

Please note the following changes to the manual – from the Aircraft-World site:

Build Notes not in manuals:

  • SET CG AT 50mm from wing leading edge for initial flights

Information provided by Hyperion's Build notes including FAQ’s.

The 50mm CG worked well and a more rearward CG might result in a very hard to control airplane. With the recommended equipment the plane balanced perfectly with the battery in the forward part of the tray. Nice to see a plane that balances properly, as that is far from my luck with many planes. The battery can be moved back for a more rearward CG.

Rates and transmitter setup

I will use my trusty Airtronics RD8000 radio for this plane. Rates were set as recommended in the manual. Ailerons at 8mm, rudder at 30mm and elevator at 12mm. No high rates were mentioned so I set those at about 20% more throw.

The little 6g BB Waypoint servos are very impressive. While setting up the radio system I noticed these little servos center well and they are lightning fast at .11sec. They are also very smooth in operation. I highly recommend them.

I usually like 25-35% expo on ailerons and elevator, so I used 25% expo for initial values. Flaperons were set to slow down landings, if necessary. The flight timer was set to count down from 8 minutes. That should be plenty long with this plane and give ample time for landing before the 1200mAh batteries are depleted.


When you have a plane this pretty you need to snap some pictures before the first flight. It has scale lines and is a fantastic looking plane!

First flight

I anticipated a lively airplane and was not disappointed. This plane required very minor trim changes and was flying straight and level. On first flights I make all attempts to check the basics, trim the airplane and check stall.


Takeoff is very short only requiring a few feet. Mine lifted off with a touch of up at near full power. It had an aggressive climb rate. It only required a small rudder correction to keep it straight down the center line.


Power was substantial and the recommended system is all anyone will need. Even with the 9x4.5 prop the top speed was more than adequate, a surprise to me. I like fast planes and the power of the motor was such that the relatively low pitch was fine.


The landing was very easy just control when trimmed with a nice sink rate. Be careful to fly this one down, too much flair may be rewarded with a wing drop. Fly this plane down for wheel landings with good speed.

Flight #2

Second flights mean a bit more fun. This is where you might anticipate that this airplane will really come alive. It has a very comfortable feel. It goes just where you point it and it gets there in a hurry!


This plane stalls very deep and hard. It does give significant feedback before it stalls, however. It will clearly signal by dropping a wingtip then the other in a sort of waggle. It is controllable right down to the last second. The plane will need time for recovery so do not try stall tests without altitude. Too much elevator and power might result in unexpected results.


Very easy to control and keep large and perfectly round. It really shines here! Nice big huge 100ft loops were easy with no corrections needed. Very impressive.


They are completely axial and very fast with the rates set at manual recommendations. Exponential was a good idea in roll and the estimated 25% softened the controls well. It tended to dutch roll a bit with elevator input so make very minor corrections if any. To be honest it really didn’t need elevator inputs I was using, more stick time will help.

Split S turns

The plane is very sensitive to roll and pitch just as expected, but the plane had no tendancy to over-rotate the rolls in the split S turns. It was very smooth and predictable. It stops roll and pitch as soon as you do. Very responsive.


Spins are tight and furious with this plane, even with the forward CG. Recovery is quick, allow adequate time for recovery to flying speed.

Snap Rolls

Well you know you are comfortable when you are doing snap rolls on your second flight. The Snap rolls were amazing. I used to think that the Cap aircraft were the kings of snap rolls, well guess what! This thing snapped on a dime and gave 9 cents change. It was simply amazing. They are scary fast and tight. Recovery from the snap is near instant, but you need to fly out of the snap with power, altitude and speed. It will snap again if recovery is tried without adequate power or too much elevator is used. Fantastically brilliant maneuver.

3D flight

This ship has very "scale" sized tail surfaces and throws so it really does not lend itself to that flight type. It is intended to be flown "on the wing" and not hanging on the propeller. For those who are fans of 3D, Hyperion has released a plane similar in size to the Sukhoi. Look for the Hyperion 3-Delight balsa ARF kit now available.

Although not intended for 3D flight, please take note of the video links provided below. This shows the non-hover acrobatic ability of this line of scale ships.

Propeller choice

I settled on the 9x4.5 propeller for the test flights. It worked very well, and I saw no reason to switch this. It clearly did not need more speed even with the low pitch propeller. The hotter wind motor certainly helps this.

Recommended power system

The recommended power system for this plane gives breathtaking performance. I like power, this system delivers. Ground roll can be nearly non-existent and there is plenty of reserve power always a plus. I found myself flying at about half throttle, using full power only for vertical maneuvers.

With the 9x4.5 propeller and Hyperion 2213 motor this 20oz ship would easily go and hang on vertical. As pointed out this is not a 3D ship, but the recommended power system provides more than adequate hover power, with snappy vertical pull out power. The /24 wind version of the motor would allow even larger propellers suited for 3D type wing manouvers.

Is this plane for a beginner?

This airplane is an advanced acrobatic craft and it is not in any way a beginner ship. Just as the full scale aircraft it is designed to perform aerobatics the model is quick, nimble and responsive. As expected it is not self correcting, something that beginners need. So beginners, learn quickly!

Flight Video


I think the flying characteristics follows the other Hyperion planes in this line. For an excellent professional quality video of the Hyperion Cap 232 check the 3dhobbyshop site for an excellent flight video (Use Internet Explorer browser as the video is imbedded in the page).


I like airplanes that well, look like airplanes. Scale aircraft are always high on my list and it is great that we have three new aerobatic scale ships from Hyperion. The Sukhoi SU-31 is very easy to assemble with little more to do than install the radio system, tail feathers and power system. Those looking for a quick build will be very happy with this.

The flight performance is simply breathtaking. I spent so much time with snap rolls grinning ear to ear it was hard to focus on much else. I have never had a plane that snapped this fast and hard. My jaw was on the ground in amazement. Flying it requires a light touch and attention. This plane is recommended for those who want a very capable aerobatic scale aircraft. It builds in just a couple of hours and it looks fantastic, especially the cowl. It is priced well also, including a package deal that includes the plane, ESC and motor.

This would make an excellent addition to anyone’s hangar.


  • Excellent looks
  • Aerobatic flight performance
  • Super fast assembly
  • 98% complete out of the box
  • Light weight


  • Former fit between cowl and canopy
  • Slight paint mismatch from cowl to canopy
  • No steerable tailwheel

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Jan 14, 2006, 02:27 AM
Registered User
Hi Mike,

I think you had better check your break down of the ARF kit weight. I think you missed out a wing! Also my hardware pack weighed 37g excluding the stick mount so I'm not sure what you had included in your 10g's of hardware.

My total kit weight was 328grams.


Jan 14, 2006, 04:15 PM
Registered User
pda4you's Avatar
Originally Posted by Heather
Hi Mike,

I think you had better check your break down of the ARF kit weight. I think you missed out a wing! Also my hardware pack weighed 37g excluding the stick mount so I'm not sure what you had included in your 10g's of hardware.

My total kit weight was 328grams.


You are right - I missed the 2nd panel in the total weight. It should read 301grams 10.75oz total.

Sorry about that. I have a minor in math - o well!

The AUW remains correct at 20oz. It is a fine flyer. Just out again with it today.

Jan 14, 2006, 05:06 PM
Registered User
Ken Myers's Avatar

This is the best reivew I've read on the Ezonemag site. Keep up the great work! Even with the little math snafu, it is still outstanding.

Jan 14, 2006, 05:47 PM
Registered User
Mike's review od the sukhoi is spot on. This plane is fantastic aerobatically and as Mike said the snap rolls are amazing. Even though I crashed mine, I am considering buying another because it was a joy to fly. Certainly all the nitro plane flyers at my club were impressed by the scale appearance and flight characteristics of this plane.

My only suggestion would be to glue the ply brace and wings in place with epoxy if you wnat to do snap rolls, etc
Jan 14, 2006, 07:31 PM
Registered User
pda4you's Avatar
Thank you Ken and polar bear.

I cant tell you how much fun it is to fly! Polar Bear you will have to get another one!

I am also amazed at the value of these $80-100 ARF's. This was my first ARF build where I was done in 4 hours. The cowl was simply amazing!

It will not be my last Hyperion plane that is for sure. And for the warbird lovers - it appears their p-51 is out!

Jan 15, 2006, 09:14 AM
Registered User


Where can you buy this? I tried several dealers listed on Empire's site but none had them listed.

Last edited by RCWW1; Jan 15, 2006 at 09:15 AM. Reason: spelling
Jan 15, 2006, 09:30 AM
Registered User
pda4you's Avatar
Originally Posted by RCWW1
Where can you buy this? I tried several dealers listed on Empire's site but none had them listed.

Here they are:
http://www.espritmodel.com/ has it listed as well under parkflyers

Those are just the first two I looked at.

Jan 15, 2006, 10:45 AM
Registered User
AZcrashpro's Avatar
Originally Posted by RCWW1
Where can you buy this? I tried several dealers listed on Empire's site but none had them listed.

Also ww.bmkdesigns.net has them. I may have to get one of these for myself.
Jan 16, 2006, 07:30 PM
AMA 148796

You're right on with respect to the build process. I have the SU-31 with a Hacker A20-22L and the Extra 300 with a hacker A20-20L. Both went together very quickly - I glued the wings on, though.

Thanks for the suggestion on hatch hold down as that's been my only issue with the kits. These are very well built.

I have the Yak on order, next up on the bench. Likely an A30-28S for that one.

Jan 23, 2006, 05:21 PM
I want to fly everything!
Lance Nordby's Avatar
I bought one of these a couple months ago.

I really like the looks of the plane and feel that it is great value. But,...

With all the cutout bits and pieces I was expecting it to weigh less than my Wattage Extra 330L. But it is a little heavier. It also feels like it isn't as stiff as that plane. The landing gear mount broke a little too easy when the wheels snagged on a tuft of grass.

I have to grudgingly admit that I like the way the 330 flies better. It just seems more locked in. Maybe I have the balance too far aft on my Suke.

Ken, did you fly it before you glued the wings on?

It is a beauty and I like it, but it isn't my favorite like I thought it would be. Maybe with more tuning.
Jan 23, 2006, 07:32 PM
AMA 148796

Mine hasn't flown yet. Still waiting for the rain to quit. Hey wait - what's that bright thing up in the air???

Feb 09, 2006, 12:27 AM
Registered User
cyberhoops's Avatar
Is is possible to hand launch the airplane, or would I be asking for trouble? The park I fly in does not have the smoothest of grass surfaces.
Feb 09, 2006, 09:05 AM
Registered User
pda4you's Avatar
Originally Posted by cyberhoops
Is is possible to hand launch the airplane, or would I be asking for trouble? The park I fly in does not have the smoothest of grass surfaces.
It will hand launch fine, just give it a firm level toss. If propped for 15ish amps it will zoom away qucikly. Most have found very little trim changes also. It is very straight and true.

Feb 16, 2006, 05:26 PM
Registered User
cyberhoops's Avatar
My plane is nearly ready for the sky, but one last question. What method did you use to secure tha battery? Velcro?

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