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Old Mar 11, 2006, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infopimp
killer! sometimes, you can't convert women. but you can get them to film you while flying in certain cases.

Whiskey Tango Fox-trot, Over??



T
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Old Mar 11, 2006, 11:12 AM
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Lookin' GOOD!

T
Old Mar 11, 2006, 11:38 AM
blewis01 is offline
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that's gonna hurt...
Hutch - 2 WOWs

1. WOW - nice work on the Sushi - obvious you have a lot of work into the plug.

2. WOW - somebody stole your truck, fixed it up, and drove it around your neighborhood? And you got it back? What's the Lotto up to now?

Bruce
Old Mar 11, 2006, 11:40 AM
SkyKing RC is offline
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Love it


Mike, Love the looks of your new model. It's funny how so many of us seem to have the same tail design in mind for our twist wing airplanes. I just finished the tail template for the Spyder. The vertical looks a lot like yours. I guess we all have a thing for sharks or something close.

You are doing a great job on this bird. Put me on your buyers list. I'd like to add this one to my already way to big collection of twist wing airplanes.

Ed
Old Mar 11, 2006, 12:31 PM
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Short- Kit!, Short Kit!, Short Kit!

I'll cut the wings.

Target
Old Mar 12, 2006, 03:25 AM
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Thanks guys! I'm happy to see you are still watching out there. It's pretty fun shaping this thing (yes I just mentioned sanding and fun in the same sentence). You see something you don't like and you can just hit it with the sandpaper for a bit and problem solved.

Ed, does the Spyder have v-tails like the shrike? I like the sharky tail feathers...especially when I don't have to worry about hinging them!

Thanks for the offer Target! I'll may hold you to that.

-hutch
Old Mar 12, 2006, 08:41 AM
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Spyder tail feathers


The Spyder will be set up as a Wingeron. It will have a cross tail with an active rudder.

I'm considering producing a pitcheron variant that would have "V" tails. It would be sort of a SuperShrike but first I need to finish the Spyder the way Harris intended it to be produced. It's getting close.

Doug Boyd's (The Winchdoc) wing activation hardware will grace a handful of Spyders for those folks that were lucky enough to have ordered and received his hardware.

Ed
Old Mar 12, 2006, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hutch
Thanks for the offer Target! I'll may hold you to that.

-hutch

Excellent! Let me know.

Target
Old Mar 13, 2006, 02:01 AM
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What's a good filler to use for small spots? Something that I don't have to mix up a big ole' blob of like bondo? There is one last spot that is bugging me.

Off to tap plastics tomorrow at lunch to go get some bigger mixing cups and some brushes so I can start sealing the plug tomorrow night...that is if I don't spend all night staring at it trying to figure out if it's done yet.
Old Mar 13, 2006, 02:13 AM
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Another thing that I hadn't really thought about yet...the canopy. I am not sure how I am going to do this? There is no wing saddle so at this point I will have no opening to use to join the parts once they are in the mold. Any suggestions? Should I be cutting it out of the plug now? Or should I have already done it?

It seems like if I am going to have any access at all I will have to chop it out now and make two molds. Is it a big pain to mold the fuse in one piece and then cut out the canopy once the halves are made? I could build some sort of cut line into the plug that will show on the finished piece. Then I could join the fuse halves easy enough. It wouldn't be easy to join the canopy so it was straight then.

Ok, so if I made some canopy lines in the mold, another idea is to pull only the front half of the first fuse and use that as a mold to make the canopy, Then I would have a mold that would match the canopy cut lines in the fuse, and I wouldn't have to worry about joining it. Then I could just cut that section of the mold out with the bandsaw.

Just thinking out loud here, but I suppose it's time to figure this part out....

-hutch
Last edited by Hutch; Mar 13, 2006 at 02:22 AM.
Old Mar 13, 2006, 07:56 AM
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I think the scratching in a line idea is ok. You really don't even need to do that. You could just do the halves, then decide where to cut it out after. After your mold comes out good, then you could sacrifice the plug, chopping off that section, (but larger), and do a mold of just that, with the line scratched in that piece....

T
Old Mar 13, 2006, 08:39 AM
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You can pull a mold for the canopy before you do the fuse halves. Just mark/scratch/? your desired canopy outline on the plug and pull a mold off just that area. Instant easy canopy mold! After you build the fuse mold halves cut a template from ~1/16" something (plastic) that fits the canopy area and attach it to the inside of the mold before doing your layup. When you pull the part off their will be a 1/16" recess for your perfect canopy (carbon is always nice) to lay into. Keep up the good work!

I will be doing the same thing for a Contender fuse mold in the future. Hopefully, before I get to old to retrieve it from down the hills.

BTW, Are you doing an ASK-18 build thread?
Old Mar 13, 2006, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hutch
What's a good filler to use for small spots?
Spot putty, I think mine is 'Bondo' brand. Comes premixed in a toothpaste tube.

Nauga,
who says, "Mmmm...minty"
Old Mar 13, 2006, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m_acree
BTW, Are you doing an ASK-18 build thread?
Nope, I was actually hoping to see someone else do one. My list of questions on that thing is much longer than my list of answers so far. It's been intimidating me a bit, and I just haven't had the guts to get past dry fitting everything yet. Meanwhile it screams at me from the box "Come on you big wuss put me together!!" I've decided to shoot for Los Banos next year as my completion goal.
Old Mar 13, 2006, 05:56 PM
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It could happen...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nauga
Spot putty, I think mine is 'Bondo' brand. Comes premixed in a toothpaste tube.

Nauga,
who says, "Mmmm...minty"
http://www.bondo-online.com/catalog_...sp?itemNbr=736

Does this stuff leave your teeth ready for primer/paint???

Maybe I'm confused...


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