New "Bat" Epp combat wing. Fast! - Page 15 - RC Groups
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Aug 15, 2009, 11:39 AM
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norstaroption's Avatar
I'm confuse already and I just want to make sure. The bottom of the wing is where the servo bays are, right?

Thanks
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Aug 15, 2009, 05:55 PM
Ming's Avatar
Quote:
I'm confuse already and I just want to make sure. The bottom of the wing is where the servo bays are, right?

Thanks
Yes, did you see the manaul?

Ming Lou
Aug 16, 2009, 12:28 PM
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norstaroption's Avatar
Thanks, Ming. Just making sure I got used of building wings where the systems are on top.
Aug 17, 2009, 12:10 PM
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norstaroption's Avatar
I'm building the Bat stock, approximately how much weight do I need in the lead compartment to balance the wing?
Nov 17, 2015, 09:31 PM
Ming's Avatar
Last 24 Bats remain:
http://www.windrider.com.hk/product.asp?page=2&id=165

Ming Lou
Nov 18, 2015, 02:11 PM
Objects in mirror are losing
1000MPH's Avatar
I have a spare kit but maybe one more wouldn't be a bad idea.
My Bat folded at an unknown speed when Bruce flew it at Parker on a good day. My guess is that it was faster than the 163 I got out of her.
It has since been repaired and will fly again.
Oct 31, 2017, 05:21 AM
Registered User
Hi all, I just received my bat kit today. I got Ming to include the carbon ribbon used in the bee kits which is great. I only intend to replace the elevons with balsa and run the carbon strip top and bottom straight from wing tip to wing tip. I'm wondering if I should also use the carbon spar as well? I'm aiming to build this around the 1kg mark as that seems to be a general good all rounder as per the previous posts.
Oct 31, 2017, 06:35 PM
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1000MPH's Avatar
Are you going to DS? At that weight you will definitely need the carbon tube either way. Maybe even upgrade the stock carbon.
I would also recommend a Sub TE spar. Make sure you have plenty of room for lead up front.
Oct 31, 2017, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000MPH
Are you going to DS? At that weight you will definitely need the carbon tube either way. Maybe even upgrade the stock carbon.
I would also recommend a Sub TE spar. Make sure you have plenty of room for lead up front.
My build will be mainly frontside. From what I've read in this thread 1kg seems to a good balance for frontside from light to heavy winds. In regards to putting a SUB TE spar, I'm not clear where this should be. Can you confirm if I've got it right in the attached pic ? Also the elevons will be replaced with balsa.
Last edited by Rich00; Oct 31, 2017 at 08:44 PM.
Oct 31, 2017, 11:56 PM
608 km/h!
josh18's Avatar
I think he means at the trailing edge of the eleven cut out of the wing, in front of the eleven. Also known as a drag spar. Gives more stiffness and a better hinge point than just foam.
I saw a bat with reduced chord of the elevens once and it flew well. They are pretty huge in stock form. Will you be removing the reflex from the trailing edge also? This makes them fly a lot better. There are good threads about on it
Nov 01, 2017, 12:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh18
I think he means at the trailing edge of the eleven cut out of the wing, in front of the eleven. Also known as a drag spar. Gives more stiffness and a better hinge point than just foam.
I saw a bat with reduced chord of the elevens once and it flew well. They are pretty huge in stock form. Will you be removing the reflex from the trailing edge also? This makes them fly a lot better. There are good threads about on it
Hi Josh,

This is my first bat build and at this stage I will keep the reflex in, I've a few threads on the mods. If I decide to remove it later it gives me an excuse to get another bat. Ok understand about the drag spar, will include that. Thanks for the clarification.
Last edited by Rich00; Nov 01, 2017 at 12:50 AM. Reason: More comments
Nov 01, 2017, 06:38 AM
608 km/h!
josh18's Avatar
I would really recommend removing the reflex, otherwise they need a very forward CG, which means more all up weight but worse they really can't fly fast without ballooning. I also think it will make it really prone to tip stall. I had a mate with one where he left the reflex in and to make it fly right he progressively moved the CG back and added down trim to compensate. He got it flying neutrally eventually and it ended up going very well but it had about 10mm of down trim.
Removing the reflex is easy, you just cut off the fixed trailing edge parts and re glue them with the underside against a flat surface. Look up Predator on here and he has a really good thread on building them.
Cheers
Josh
Nov 01, 2017, 07:06 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by josh18
I would really recommend removing the reflex, otherwise they need a very forward CG, which means more all up weight but worse they really can't fly fast without ballooning. I also think it will make it really prone to tip stall. I had a mate with one where he left the reflex in and to make it fly right he progressively moved the CG back and added down trim to compensate. He got it flying neutrally eventually and it ended up going very well but it had about 10mm of down trim.
Removing the reflex is easy, you just cut off the fixed trailing edge parts and re glue them with the underside against a flat surface. Look up Predator on here and he has a really good thread on building them.
Cheers
Josh
Ok, since I'm waiting on some aileron stock to come in and this is now turning into a slow build I'll remove the reflex.
Nov 01, 2017, 08:21 AM
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1000MPH's Avatar
Exactly as Josh wrote. You really need to remove the reflex.
Nov 01, 2017, 05:42 PM
Registered User
Hi, I've found the predator bat mini build thread and the flex removal looks pretty easy. In regards to the drag spar/ sub TE spar should it be one piece of carbon ribbon running from one side to the other ? It's a bit hard to get anything over a 1 metre locally. So wondering if I could join 2 bits together by exporting the over lap ? Also in regards to taping, should I apply a bias pattern that covers the entire wing top and bottom ? In his pics it seems there is only a few strips.

Thanks in advance.
Richard


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