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Jun 05, 2002, 03:31 PM
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cathode's Avatar
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Foam Glue, what do you use?


Hey,

I've been looking for the perfect foam glue. I'm using 50min epoxy and Pro-Bond. I've heard UHU Por is great, fast drying and flexible. Does anyone know where one could buy that stuff in the US?
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Jun 05, 2002, 04:54 PM
Registered User
Ben74's Avatar
i use Goop for EPP foam. can't beat it. epoxy or foam-safe CA for EPS (styrofoam).
Jun 05, 2002, 05:05 PM
G G Ghost Pirates !!!
Vyceroy's Avatar
3M 77 spray adhesive for laminating ..Epoxy for spars and fuse joints.. and foam safe CA for fast bonds
Jun 05, 2002, 05:26 PM
Flying Saucer Mechanic
Stef's Avatar

foam safe glue


I have tried many glues for foam, one I haven't tried is "UHU for foam" Hobby Lobby carries it.



Stef
Jun 05, 2002, 06:02 PM
GOOP for EPP and elmers wood glue for white foam, it take some time to dry but it's cheap and strong. and 3m 77 to join epp to white foam and for applying tape.
Jun 05, 2002, 07:04 PM
Here's what I use on blucore:
Any type of epoxy,
Probond polyurethane glue,
Liquid Nails for Small Projects (tube size),
Southern's Sorghum contact cement
Jun 05, 2002, 07:51 PM
R/C Enthusiast
sgil2001's Avatar
I use Probond and Epoxy on foam, but I also use HOLD THE FOAM. I got it at the craft store. It's a tacky white glue. I used it on all my GWS planes. It's real easy to work with.
Jun 06, 2002, 01:27 AM
Int'l Slope Observer
webguyjv's Avatar

Elmer's ProBond


I learned to build with EPP on my Push-E Cattwo years ago. At that time, Darwin instructed builders to use ProBond.

I still use it although I can see why so many builders use Goop. Excess Goop can be wipred away before curing, so it's pretty clean, and it's incredibly tough.

I like ProBond as it foams up and cures to a hard surface that easily sandable. I had a dabate with a friend recently and I conceded that he's right about Goop being better overall, but I found that soetimes when you get in a bad crash, and there are uneven chunks of EPP involved, and you're too cheap to uy a new block of foam and rebuild (liek I do usually -- I'm CHEAP!), ProBond is excellent in that is fills all of the gaps where the missing EPP once was, and it's sandable (so you can get your nice surface back) and it flexes on impact.

The nice thing about these adhesives is that there are so many proven brands and techniques -- pick the one that works best for you and don't let anyone dissuade you from it. If it works, don't fix it

Happy flying ;-)

webguyjv
Jun 06, 2002, 02:37 AM
Las Vegas Realtor
Inari's Avatar
One thing I use alot is hot glue. Yes, if its too hot or you put too much on it can melt low density foam. But its great for quickly tacking things together or for holding things in place while the "other" glue dries.
Jun 06, 2002, 02:40 AM
Registered User
Good advice jv. For flyers in the UK, I have recently found a 2-part polyurethane glue called Poly Power from hardware chain B&Q. This is much better on foam than epoxy - lighter and tougher.

It's slower to set, so no good for field repairs, but it goes off very predictably and remains movable for some time. You need to wipe it with a stick, as it's almost impossible to remove from your fingers!
Jun 06, 2002, 02:53 AM
I notice several people mentioned 3M 77. Be very careful with that as it's just been reformulated and the new version, in a red can, is definitely not safe for use on normal EPS foams. There's an interesting picture of the effect it has in the latest QEFI magazine .

Steve
Jun 06, 2002, 10:27 AM
Yes, if you can find some 3M77 where the first ingredient listed is "cyclohexane" (the old formula), it's safe for EPP and EPS. If it says "acetone" (the new ozone-friendly version), it will eat foam if sprayed directly on. You can still use it on foam if you spray it in a cup and stir it for a few minutes to evaporate all the acetone, according to Trick R/C.


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