what is the "gear" switch for ? why is there?

Originally Posted by Ah Clem

Cowboy Ray,

Thank you for the information on the DUZI part. I had seen these on the net, but did not know if they were a direct fit.

Thank you very much!

They are close to a direct fit but the way Duzi treats the main shaft is totally different. They split it in two at the head block and so you will have to cut the 3D shaft to get it to fit/work. The anti-rotation arm is too short as well. The quality of the DUZI parts is the best in the biz though and they fly Caddy smooth, I have the whole head assem. and swash.

Chris

Originally Posted by superdave420

what is the "gear" switch for ? why is there?

On our helis its not going to do anything. Its and expansion channel for us for future models.

Chris

Thanks C of G :-)

Well I crashed mine already

I spun it up and up and up and up it did not even begin to lift off til like 80% stick, then it shot up at full blast and went right into the flourescent lights !!.. bad setup guys,
mabey you could turn the gear switch into a throttle hold for checking pitch range....

So now I need to get a new boom, blades.

hind sight says I should have disconnected the main motor first and checked pitch range.... dang hindsight.... lol

nobody has the parts, any one know where I can get new grips ?

back to the drawing board, I put the lipo in today,when it took off it was up and down real fast. I managed to land, Then I made sure both limit and delay were set to 50% and took it back up. Both plt and pzt were set close to 0. It was going up and down spuraticly again.

I figured out why this happened. I stripped the main setscrew in the aluminum headblock, then I replaced it with one that was too short. So I was waiting on the new headblock, to replace it again, I put locktite on every screw but that one, because I figured I'd replace it before it happened again. I was wrong. Whats funny is that I just bought setscrews today for that main reason. All I could think was get LIPO working. LIPO LIPO LIPO. Whats bad is that this is the second time I learned my lesson about the headblock setscrew. But much more expensive this time.




VENF-7711 Flybar - VNR3D 1 $3.99
VENF-7712 Flybar Control Tray - VNR3D 1 $7.99
VENF-7714 Pushrod Assembly - VNR3D 1 $7.99
VENF-7715 Flybar See Saw - VNR3D 1 $11.99
VENF-7722 Landing Gear Set - VNR3D 1 $7.99
VENF-7724 Main Gear - VNR3D 1 $11.99
VENF-7729 Tail Gearbox Housing - VNR3D 1 $6.99
VENF-7731 Tail Boom - VNR3D 1 $3.99
VENF-7732 Tail Rotor Shaft - VNR3D 1 $3.99
VENF-7733 Tail Spur Gear - VNR3D 1 $3.99
Subtotal $70.90
Shipping & Handling $8.90
Total $79.80

Can I borrow some money?
I work for my heli now.

Is this flybar seesaw going to be the correct one? Because the picture in the manual is wrong.

Hey Boing same thing happend to me. Dang. I was so anxious to fly this thing.

I ordered all the parts form Venoms website. they have a very weird shipping deal.

Nice monitor setup... But a eMachines keyboard??

Yeah... LOL

I pissed off the I.T dept. and they gave me a crappy keyboard.

I think I'll put together my new APLUS 300 that just arrived, since my night ranger is down....

Well, I found everything I need in Redding but the link kit. Guess I will be searching the yard today for those 2 little buggers. (short one's from the see saw to blade grips)
Cowboy Ray, I could care less about getting good at flying a heli. I only wish to hover, and land on various things such as stools and coffee cans and such. For this I need high stability, precise reaction to stick inputs, and alot of luck. My goal is to make my heli tight, accurate, and stable for stool and table hopping fun in the house. I have already figured out where alot of the instability was in mine. I have found that by getting all freeplay out of the seesaw arms, improves the stability bigtime. The retainers must hold the little arms back against the seesaw snugly. It's a game to me, and one I almost gave up on until yesterday. That was the first time I ever saw my heli hoover with any stability whatsoever. I see I have a considerable amount of freeplay in the pined link joints too, except for the 3 at the servo arms, they are nice and tight. Too many crashes elongating the holes I suppose. In either case, playing with this machine has been alot of fun. Before I take er up the next time, everything is going to be as accurate and tight as it can possibly be, and eventually, if they become available, I will fit it with an aluminum, rotor head assembly. I also have a slight bit of slop in the main shaft bearings, and that will have to be corrected also. Needless to say, I am having lots of fun... Dennis

Boing, disreguard the picture, you need a 7715. The link kit is a 7714.

k, thats what I ordered.. Do the blade grips come with new bolts and nuts?

Also the arm that connects to the blade grip attaches to another arm that connects to the see saw (I need that arm). Not sure what its called, I doubt I have ordered it. Any ideas what part it is? Actually this part should be in the pushrod assembly. Just isn't in the picture on the manual. Rebuilding this thing should be a scary, which arm adjusts tracking? Its tracking was almost perfect from venom so I didn't have to. Whats the best way to get the tail gear out of the old housing into the new, as I know this has been a problem for a few of you guys? I can dremel it out as the housing is damaged anyway. But sticking it back in the new housing.. Drill the hole out bigger? .

This post is prolly going to grow into a couple pages of questions about problems I'm just now running into. Atleast I'll know how to fix the parts.. Just wasn't expecting to so soon as my flying skills are El337. (jk) but I fly ok unless the heli is coming apart