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Sep 14, 2010, 10:18 AM
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Thrawn150's Avatar
I got the "RS 333-90 Electric Retract 90'(Wide) PAIR". Plane went down and is being rebuilt So I can not take the Pic right now. You are going to have to take down a rib by about 1/2 and remove some on the plastic.
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Sep 14, 2010, 09:08 PM
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brati4's Avatar
Pics from this weekend flyin. The formation flight was done with a friend's Fly Fly F-100.. and yes we flew that close and no it is not photo shopped.
Before anyone says anything, yes mine is glow powered
Oct 30, 2010, 09:01 AM
chinehamgeorge's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinehamgeorge
Hi Guys, How do you like my new prop?

The above picture was using a cheap and plastic static prop which was just wind milling and a very slow shutter speed.
I just loved the look of this large 4 blade prop that I decided that I wanted to fit a big 4 blade prop on my 'bolt.
I knew Ramoser Varioprop used to do variable pitch 4 bladed props but they only went up to 14 or 15" diameter.
I was very surprised to see that they now do much larger props upto 22.6".
So in a moment of madness I ordered up a 18.6" four blade hub and paddle props - it cost a fortune!!

My original setup was a 410kv Purple Power Professional PPO-5065-410 and a 16x10 APC Patten prop.
I tried the Varioprop on this motor and set the pitch as fine as I could.
The power was way up but it had no airspeed, it felt like it was going to fall out of the sky.
So I changed the motor to a PPO-5065-270kv and set the pitch to 18", the power was around 1180W on my very old and tied TP 13C 6S3P 5,300mAh LiPo's.

It now fly's very similar to the original setup.


The only difference is that you need to feed the power in very very slowly to stop it swinging on take off.


Doesn't it look great with that big prop




It has brought a new lease of life to the old girl

Cheers n beers
George
Oct 30, 2010, 10:38 AM
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flmlm's Avatar
Looks Great!!!!

Regards
Mike
Nov 01, 2010, 06:42 AM
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ozgur's Avatar
Thrawn150,

I also ordered the same retracts "RS 333-90 Electric Retract 90'(Wide) PAIR" for my Top-Flite P-51 .60 size plane. Sadly today I learned that Lado recommends to use them with 4.8V or max with 5.5V. But my receiver battery is 6V and I prefer to use my servos also with 6V. What should I do? Do you have any idea?

Ozgur
Nov 01, 2010, 08:24 AM
Registered User
brati4's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ozgur
Thrawn150,

I also ordered the same retracts "RS 333-90 Electric Retract 90'(Wide) PAIR" for my Top-Flite P-51 .60 size plane. Sadly today I learned that Lado recommends to use them with 4.8V or max with 5.5V. But my receiver battery is 6V and I prefer to use my servos also with 6V. What should I do? Do you have any idea?

Ozgur
Use a separate a rx pack to run your retracts. It is good insurance to go this route if the electric motors stall and you won't drain your rcvr pack.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/atta...hmentid=703199
Nov 01, 2010, 08:32 AM
They call me Crash!
Kaw1000's Avatar
I'm using the factory retract system. I was trying to adjust the retract servo so it does not stall with no luck at all. I tryed end points and it does not adjust from that option.
I'm using the Airtronics sd-10.

Dan
Nov 01, 2010, 08:45 AM
Registered User
ozgur's Avatar
Thanks a lot brati4,
What I understood from the other thread (meanwhile I have a limited electronic knowledge), I should use a "Y" cable, one goes to additional battery (which will be 4.8V) and the other suppose to go to rx connection. The trick and the important part is, the "red cable" in the rx connection plug must be cut and isolated.

Is that means; the power will going to come to retracts from additional battery, meanwhile the control signals also keep on coming from the rx connection with only the white and black color's cables? So that the high voltage will not damage the retracts.

Ozgur
Nov 03, 2010, 08:18 PM
Registered User
motor12's Avatar
Just opened the box on my new P47 and it's a big bird. I have been following this thread for some time now and decided it was time to move up to a larger project. Going to do the electric conversion. If you could have done one thing different on the conversion what would it be, anything going to bite me.. thanks.
Nov 03, 2010, 08:36 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by motor12
Just opened the box on my new P47 and it's a big bird. I have been following this thread for some time now and decided it was time to move up to a larger project. Going to do the electric conversion. If you could have done one thing different on the conversion what would it be, anything going to bite me.. thanks.
I can't stress this enough, reinforce the Horizontal Stabilizer. Mine fractured in flight, luckily I was able to land the plane before it completely came off.

I cut the covering back, and after regluing it back together, I added gussets in all 4 corners where the L/E and T/E stringers meet the center block.

I had probably 15 good flights on it when it broke. I had a few guys in my club tell me to watch for that very thing, but I disregarded their advice because mine hadn't broken yet.

The center block (middle of Horizontal Stab that glues to the fuse) has the woodgrain longitudinal with the fuse also, another weak point.

Aside from that, you are going to love this baby, the best flying plane in my hangar.
Nov 03, 2010, 09:04 PM
Registered User
motor12's Avatar
Thanks Speedy 72, i will take your advise. also i have been looking at the build photos you posted and i must say a picture is worth a 1000 words, i can read instructions but i also need photos and yours helped. I am starting the build tomorrow and will be calling on you again i am sure, thanks...
Nov 03, 2010, 09:34 PM
Registered User
Thrawn150's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ozgur
Thrawn150,

I also ordered the same retracts "RS 333-90 Electric Retract 90'(Wide) PAIR" for my Top-Flite P-51 .60 size plane. Sadly today I learned that Lado recommends to use them with 4.8V or max with 5.5V. But my receiver battery is 6V and I prefer to use my servos also with 6V. What should I do? Do you have any idea?

Ozgur
Sorry I would either steep down to 4.8 or get a seprate battery for retracts.
Nov 03, 2010, 11:38 PM
They call me Crash!
Kaw1000's Avatar
When you fellas state a seperate battery pack for retracts...do I hook up one battery for Rx and then a y cable for the retracts? Would that not put too much voltage to the RX and burn it up. I'm using the factory retracts with a retract servo.
Nov 04, 2010, 12:56 AM
Registered User
ozgur's Avatar
Thank you Thrawn150,

I think I get the point, I have two batteries, one I am going to use it for retracts which is 4.8volts, the other is 6volts and I am going to use it for Rx. And the red cable in the "Y" plug, which goes to Rx to retracts suppose to be cut and isolated.

Ozgur
Nov 04, 2010, 08:20 AM
Registered User
ozgur, feel free to ask anytime if you have more questions.
As far as the retracts, I too have a separate battery powering my retracts. I'm using the stock mechanical retracts with a Bluebird retract servo.

I run a 2S LiPo with a voltage regulator at 6V. The retract servo i'm using is rated for 6V. I took the power leads from the battery and ran them to a RX switch, then from the switch to the regulator. That way, I can turn off the retract power without draining the battery. I've been flying with this setup for 5 months now, and only charged the battery once. Even then, it only took 325Ma, and it's a 2200Ma pack.

The RX powers from the ESC, it is a UBEC switch mode controller, works fine with a 6S battery.


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