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Wetlap Fuse Layup
Well folks, here we go. Most of you do not know me. I have been with the ISR since it's second year. Due to many personal issues, I have not built anything in about three years. Things are changing, and I am getting back into building finally after a much overdue lay off. Dan Sampson and I have been working on the clubs latest project, and I will show you very briefly some shots of the process. I am no expert, but thought it would be a good thing to capture for those who know nothing about it. Like DutchyDawg, I have always done the two halve, tape method of joining. This was my first association with this type of layup, so keep that in mind as I share the process. I have never attached anything, or commentary on same before, so bare with me as I learn.
Twinboom aka. Doogie ImagesView all Images in thread
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more of the same
The next two pictures are the fuse with the glass all brushed down. One of the flush edges will be at the top, and the other at the bottom when the two halves are joined.
Doogie ImagesView all Images in thread |
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Wetlapping
A batch of cavosil is made up, and then placed in a baggie. You twist it down tight to get rid of the air, and then cut the corner of the baggie off, just as if you were writing with frosting on a cake. You squeese it out in a thin line along the short side of the joint. It acts as bonding agent so to speak for the joints during the final assembly of the two halves, and pretty much fills any voids caused by newbies like me trimming the glass to short, or too long for that matter. The flap on the long side will lay down on top of the bead of cavosil.
Kind of getting the hang of this attaching process. The below three pictures show the bead of cavosil placed on the short side of the joint on each half. This enables a much cleaner, tighter joint, and pretty much visually removes the parting line from an outside view when the fuse is pulled out of the mold. ImagesView all Images in thread
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Last edited by Twinboom; Nov 27, 2005 at 06:04 PM.
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Cool, I'm off the hook ! show us how it's done Dougie !!!
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Wetlapping
The next set of pictures will be joing the two halves of the mold. This the most important step, as the last two hours of layup effort can be tossed if it is not done properly. Note the short side, and the overlap on both sides of the mold. It is self explanatory, but I will narrate a bit on the pictures.
The overlap side was trimmed down to between 1/4' - 1/2", but in my case more like 3/4". This is to allow the "lap" portion to lay across the short side once both sides are joined. This gives the appearance from the finished fuse after it is pulled out of the mold, as being one continuous piece of glass. Picture someone not familiar with the process scratching his head, or in TFLG's case, backside, wondering..how'd they do that? Doogie ImagesView all Images in thread
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Awesome, Doug.
Thanks for showing us this technique; I actually get it now! And thanks again for Dutchy's fine documentation on the mold making process... With the two of you guy doing this we common modelers stand a chance of making our own creations. Thanks! Target |
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Wetlapping
These two are the rolling process. It is easier than you think. All you need is an opening at one end or the other. It can be done through the hatch only, but is much more difficult. Having a rear exhaust fuse/plane/subject, allows one to roll it from the back end. With a light shining down into the hatch, it is very easy to see thw whole joint line from the inside of this particular layup.
Doogie ImagesView all Images in thread
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Nice !....
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WetlappingQuote:
It is not cured. You need to do it all in the same evening. The edges are trimmed whilst still wet, right after you have layed them in the halves. Use a good pair of scissors. You can dip them in some mineral spririts, or just wipe them off and hope they acn be used again next time. |
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Wetlapping Epilog ( remember Hawaii Five-O )
So, that is it in a nutshell. I'm sure a more exhaustive thread could be done, but I think this covers it pretty good. The last picture is of your's truly on the buisness end of the roller. I hope this answers some of your questions. It has been a learning experience for me, not only in the actuall process, but in learning how this server works with attachments ect. If anyone needs any assistance over the net, or if you are close enough mile wise, just drop me a PM, or ask online for the benefit of all. If I do not know the answer, I will find it and get back to you.
Doogie P.S. The most important part, I need to get a couple of JPG's of the final fuse out of the mold. My fuse is still at dan's place. As soon as I can get one of the ISR dudes to send me a couple shots of their fuse, I will post them. Dan does not have a digital camera. Be paitient, I will work this out. Thanks again for the space................ |
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