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Nov 23, 2005, 12:14 AM
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Dumas 1940 Chris-Craft Barrel Back

Having built a Dumas Hotshot II tunnel hull as a teenager I am returning to the hobby after a long break and wish to build a Dumas 1940 CC Barrel Back. I would be grateful for advice on accessories to purchase to complete the boat. Things like : mechanical or electronic speed control? battery packs (6 or 7 cell) ? Chargers? Full size servos? Having been out of the hobby for 18 years I have lost touch.
Living in Australia I am planning to order as much as I can in the one go from Tower Hobbies as they appear to be the cheapest. The prices from retailers over here are exorbitant. That is why I want to determine all the items I will require now. If there is a thread covering this already, please direct me there and ignore my ramblings.

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Nov 23, 2005, 01:53 AM
CG Bob's Avatar
Get the electronic speed control, one with reverse. A 6 cell battery pack works fine, get 2400 or 3000 mAh if possible for longer run times. Get an AC/DC Peak Charger - it'll charge from house electricity or from a 12V car battery; get one with an adjustable charge rate. Full size servos are fine.
Get the MACK Model Marine #5045 motor, along with their bow light unit.
Check out the pictures of my barrel back in my gallery.

Some of the other threads are:
Chris Craft round-up
Chris Caft Utility boat - has some good info
Fiberglass for mahogany hulls
Boat trailer
Last edited by CG Bob; Nov 23, 2005 at 01:58 AM.
Nov 23, 2005, 02:11 AM
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Capt_Christo's Avatar
Hi Tom,

Welcome to the forum.

Where is Oz are you?

Nov 23, 2005, 04:29 AM
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CG Bob - Thanks, exactly what I was after. I will take your advice and see how I go.
Capt Christo - Inner suburban Melbourne is home for me.
Nov 28, 2005, 03:05 PM
CG Bob's Avatar
Buy some 1/8 inch half round plastic molding for the rub rails. Dumas provides a coil of triangular molding that you're supposed to sand to a half round shape for the chrome rub rails. Plastruct and Evergreen are the main suppliers in the U.S. of styrene sheets and shapes. I applied bare metal foil to the half round after it was attached to the boat.
Dec 08, 2005, 05:44 PM
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I have the kit now and I see what you mean about the triangular moulding. Seems a bit clumsy. I will try to track down a more elegant alternative. I won't need it for a little while yet though!
Dec 16, 2005, 01:53 AM
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Dumas 1940 BB


Please look at the following attachment and advise. My problem is that when the keel is fitted to my building board and the frames inserted, there is a significant gap in the halved joints. I do not know whether to bevel the keel to close up the joints or just proceed as is. I am concerned that bevelling the keel will effect the angle of the frames so that they are no longer perpendicular to the waterline.

Dec 16, 2005, 04:01 PM
Registered User
The frames, keel and chines on my Dumas CC Utility had significant 'slop' in them, ie they were loose fitting- this may be the issue you are concerned about on your boat? I built the framing up as it came out of the box (with the exception of fairing one frame along the chine), per the instructions and as successful.

Hope that helps...

Dec 16, 2005, 11:18 PM
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Thanks for your reply Aero, I get the feeling that you are referring to sideways slop in these halved joints and I am concerned about "vertical slop" in these joints. Naturally when you insert the frames into the keel you want to push them together completely so that the joint is totally closed, but when I turn the keel upside down to fix it to the building board the frames "fall" down to the board almost an eighth of an inch. It is no huge concern but I thought I might see if other modellers had any ideas.
Dec 17, 2005, 04:15 PM
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P_J_Glor's Avatar
If the deck has any sheer (concave curvature), you would not want the frames to have a straight line at deck level. If that is the case, which you should be able to tell from a side view, I would push the frames up all the way and block them up in the slots with sheet balsa between the frame tops and the building board.

Pete G.
Dec 18, 2005, 05:28 PM
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Pete, good point. What I have decided to do is put the sheers in place and then fix the frames down and block them up if required. I found that if the frames were all simply fixed down to the building board with no blocking, the sheer had a wave in it. I think that to have a consistent shape to both sides of the hull, the sheers should both be straight.

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