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May 27, 2002, 06:44 PM
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danny_isr's Avatar

How to fix Omega wing ??

Well, this is what happend ...
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May 27, 2002, 06:47 PM
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danny_isr's Avatar
And that is the result
May 27, 2002, 06:48 PM
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danny_isr's Avatar
How to fix ?
May 27, 2002, 07:08 PM
Registered User
Interesting light weight/strong construction. The 1/3 D box
is made from blue from..I have never done it b4..I would cut
a piece of blue foam glue it back and sand to shape, then
glass it with light cloth...better if u have vac bag facility.

I am thinking building a 7 cell competition wing like that. Cloth
over blue foam make the wing very strong and stiff.
May 27, 2002, 11:12 PM
Registered User

I had a similar thing occur to me during a particularily rough landing - the pin dislocated in exactly the same way as yours. I managed to pull it out by heating the pin using a soldering gun, while simultaneously pulling on the pin - it finally let go after about 30 secs - you have to be careful here not to overheat the area and cause a thermal meltdown of various epoxy structures . I then epoxied a similar pin back in (it was actualy made up of a bras tubbe with a removable pin so to speak). This worked for me but once again, if you need to do this be careful when heating the pin.
May 28, 2002, 04:55 AM
Registered User
danny_isr's Avatar

Omega crash

I tried to land it after 40 min flight, with empty battery.
Motor didnt work anymore, very srong winds and a close tree.
well ....nothing to do about it now.

Anyhow i thought to patch the pin joiner from outside with some glass from side to side, wont work ?
May 28, 2002, 12:54 PM
Green Member
FX1SUB's Avatar

off topic

Hi Danny,

this is a little off topic. I was wondering if you have any pics you can post of the servo and battery mounting you did for your Omega. I'm about to build mine and can use all the help i can get. Sorry to hear of your tree climbing expodition but it looks easy enough to fix. Give Sal a call @ NSP he might be able to help you with some suggestions.

May 28, 2002, 01:00 PM
Registered User
Danny, you sre really the best judge since you can examine the damage - however, I believe the it needs to be epoxied on the inside, rather than the outside in order to make sure that pin is secure. That will also not disturb the airfoil on the outside(perhas a minor point). BTW my omega is the 2M which I do full pedal winch launches with.
May 28, 2002, 01:35 PM
Registered User
danny_isr's Avatar

wing servo

I glued fiber glass on the balsa with 30 min epoxy and then i glued the servo (hs-55) with 6 min epoxy.
Glued the horn on the aileron first, and then did small corecction with the servo placment.
May 28, 2002, 01:42 PM
Registered User
danny_isr's Avatar

my fuse setup

Joe, let me know if you want more pics.

Yeah i think i will just put some 30 min epoxy inside and see what happens.

thanks Danny
May 28, 2002, 04:33 PM
Registered User

Similar configuration for my Omega


My setup is very close to Danny's with the 2 exceptions that I've used the FMA Quantum Reciever which is skinnier than the Hitec 555 and fits quite well on a velcro strip behind the servos in the section of the fuselage going towards the tail. This allows more room to move the battery back to get CG correct with no additional weights.

The other thing I have different is that I don't have a separate receiver battery - may not be a bad idea to add one - my flight on Sunday ended up with an absolutely beautiful landing after a brick lifter thermal flight to find I had about 1 minute left of servo action (duhop)!


It looks like you've got your battery on a velcro strip right on the bottom of the fuse - didn't seem like my battery would fit that way - do you have the 2M or 1.8M version? If the 1.8 version, I assume the battery sticks well for you, but how? Also, did you need to add some tail weight to get the CG right? It looks like your battery is pretty far forward relative to what I've got in mine.

Also, I noticed you're using HS-55's for the wing servos - do you use your ailerons as spoilers? Reason I ask is that I put in Cirrus CS-25's on Sal's advice and I'm thinking about replacing them with something smaller (like CS-21's) to get a cleaner bottom section. Only real difference between the 25's and 21's seems to be a slight difference in torque, in addition to the size (21's would actually fit in the servo bay)... The HS-55's, seem not to have as much torque as the cirrus servos - I don't actually know how much torque is needed though.
May 28, 2002, 07:39 PM
Green Member
FX1SUB's Avatar
Thanks guys i appreciate all the input. I purchased mine with the 480 motor that NSP sells. I also bought the Cirrus CS-21's for all the servos. Still I have to sit down and really read the directions yet since the plane has been hiding in the closet so my live in girlfriend wont see it....I just spent a couple of weeks building another plane so it's still too early to start another project. I'll give it another week before i tell her. The couple of things I did notice is that I'm going to have to cut some kind of hole for the rudder pushrod. From what I remember when I did glimse at the directions was that it didn't explain how to do this. It also doesn't go through the procedure for cutting the hole for the motor. The holes for the bolts that hold the wing aren't precut and the little pins on the wing don't fit in the cutouts in the fuselage. The fuselage didn't come prepainted either. Just the ugly yellow color of the fiberglass. This one seems like it's going to be a lot of work. Danny...Where did you get the pushrods and bracket you're using on your ailerons? They're nice and small and look very easy to adjust.
Steve... I cut and printed everything you did in your thread on the Omega. Please post some pics of that setup with the regular tail if you can.

Danny ...Thanks for the pics I'll be printing them out too.

I'm sure I'll have some more questions in a couple of weeks so keep a lookout for my "Omega" threads.

Thanks again,

May 29, 2002, 04:14 AM
Registered User
danny_isr's Avatar

my RX 555 is actually on a small wood "shelf" so the battery is under it, touching the servos in the back.
Yeah ny battery is on velcro on the bottom, And yes its the 1.8 version.I didn't notice any problem doing it .... did u actually try ?

The battery isn't place forward as you think, the pic miss lead you i guess. So no i didn't have to add tail weight at all. BUT i got remuvble v tail so maybe that added little but extra weight.

Yes i'm using them as spoilerons, didn't notice any problem.
Don't forget im using them on landing , so im not in high speed by then anyhow.

Pushrods where part of the KIT,installed already in the fuse.
The ailerons one came as well with some other parts.

Yeah you have to do some work on it, some adjusments to those holes. And to figure out some stuff. I can send you more pics if you want. Just tell me of what.

May 29, 2002, 08:51 AM
Registered User

Pushrods and Rudder


I'll try to get some pictures of my setup tonight - don't look too closely as I'm sure mine is a hack job next to a number of other folks on this board...

For the pushrod on the rudder, I basically just figured out approximately where the pushrod would have to go through in order to be reasonably lined up with the bottom of the rudder. Since I used semi-flexible pushrods (as mentioned in the other post), the hole had to be reasonably long in order to get the angle right. To minimize issues of the loss of strength, I tried to ensure there was a pretty good glue seal all the way around the pushrod and the fuse area.

Danny - I did try the battery on the bottom, but it sits above the bottom of the fuse - didn't seem like the Velcro would have held as well. I think I'll do what was suggested on the other post I'd made asking about the Omega and battery placement and have two velcro hook strips along the sides (almost joining up on the bottom and wrap the clothish looking part of the velcro further around the battery. Interestingly, my battery goes back as far as yours (touching the servos), but doesn't extend forward quite as far (only goes up to the cross piece).

Joe, I had to file out the holes for the wing mounts - mine didn't fit either. Also, my fuselage was a black/greenish/yellow mesh. From what I understand, it's supposed to be carbon fibre and kevlar, but I'm uncertain. The fuse does come unpainted. Now that I've had to do a repair on mine, I'll likely go through the effort of painting it white.

The pushrods and clevis came with the kit, but mine also came with a "connector" for the servo. This is a rounded thing you can push the pushrod through, then screw the pushrod down. The other end has a setup that'll push through the plastic control arm on the servo and stay in the arm, but also rotate. I used that instead of the bend. Danny's setup is likely stronger and less likely to come loose, but mine required a smaller hole in the control arm, is adjustable (don't know why I would need this) and I put the screw in with locktight.


May 29, 2002, 05:04 PM
Registered User

Fiberglass tip


Not sure if this'll help with the work on the wing, but I recently got a tip from someone I fly with who's done some pretty amazing things with fiberglass.

His suggestion to get a really good and smooth finish sounds like it's something akin to vac bag setup but without the equip and cost. What he does is use 20 or 30 minute epoxy with the glass, puts the glue down, drops the glass on, uses an acid brush to put a bit more glue on the exterior area (for concave areas, this step also seems helps to "set" the glass into the shape you need). He then puts wax paper over the repair area and rubs it down really well. He leaves the wax paper till the epoxy is dry, then peels the paper off.

Note, you might want to try this on some scrap before doing it on the plane - I've not tried this yet, just learned about it after I'd had to take some fiberglass to the fuse of my Omega.

I'd bet that replacing the blue foam with a foam plug, sanding to shape, then doing something like the above would result in a pretty good, smooth and strong repair. Not sure what you can do for finding a paint to match though... You can likely get close at the LHS, but you might call Sal and see if he can tell you the brand and color.

I'd seen another post about someone who had painted their Omega, but they did the fuse to match the covering of the wing - not much help there.

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