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Oct 03, 2005, 04:19 PM
Registered User

water based air brush paints


Hi ,
I thought I would try local craft store for foam safe paints.
They had a few colors of Krylon Short Cuts , but had a huge selection of
CREATEX airbrush paint in 2oz bottles.Waterbased.
I dusted of my old Badger 150 airbrush.
I tried two of the pearlized colors , red and purple.
Great colors but.
To get them thin enough to spray also allows them to run under blue masking tape.
I tried 40 to 15 lbs air pressure.
Med and Large nozzle.
Mabe this is just common with water based paint.


I can practice some more and probably get a little better result next time.
However there is no comparing how this paint performs to how oil based performs in a airbrush with me at the controls.
I see people airbrushing tshirts all the time and they don't make a mess like I did. And I think they are using some of the same CREATEX paint.
I can spray a model car and get good results with oil based paint.
I am sure that my problem must be in the thining of paint.
I was either getting splatters or runs.
I used tap (well) water to thin.
I would like to make this paint work because of nice colors they offer and price is about $3.00 for 2 oz bottles
I am just wanting to know if anyone else has had any luck with airbrushing foam and what paints you used in airbrush.
I would be willing to buy a better airbrush if that would help.
This Badger 150 is the only one I every owned.
Thanks
JohnnyWalker
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Oct 03, 2005, 05:32 PM
Registered Plan-a-holic
Hepdog's Avatar
I use the same brand of paint in my airbrush, but I never thin it. I don't have splatter issues or major bleeding issues when masking off. If you can play with your gun settings and try to get it to flow without thinning. You may need to buy a larger needle set. Not too familiar with that make though. My 2c...
Oct 03, 2005, 05:48 PM
Titanium Has My Back!!
9LIVES1968's Avatar
DON'T use water to thin.Buy the alcohol based thinner for your paint and mix the thinner and paint in a separate jar then hook up to your gun.Createx is what i use without any problem.The HAWK in my avatar is painted with pearl createx.Hope this helps.
Oct 03, 2005, 07:43 PM
Registered User

water-based paints


check out http://www.warbirdcolors.com

This is a line of water-based, fuel-proof, acrylic polyurethane paints. They are high-solids, high pigment content and must be thinned to use. 10-30% for HVLP systems and as much as 50% for an airbrush with a "fat" tip
Oct 03, 2005, 07:44 PM
Registered User
rcav8r2's Avatar
Like Hep Dog, I use the same stuff, unthinned right out of the bottle. I think I use about 28-30 #s of preasure at the regulator, but use a thin line from the regulator to the air brush, so that may lower the preasure a bit.

Attached is a pic of my Fancy Foam Edge. Me using an airbrush is like like Charlie Brown with a pen , but I was able to get fairly crisp lines using blue 3M tape, lightly set on the surfaces. Hit the wet paint with an air gun ( gently ) to dry the paint, and then tape and mask for the next layer.
Oct 04, 2005, 09:43 PM
Registered User

Thanks everyone,


WOW. Lots of good advice.
Glad to hear there are air brush sprayers in this forum.
I always know to count on a fellow r/c'er for help.
Thanks again.
JohnnyWalker
Oct 04, 2005, 09:47 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcav8r2
Like Hep Dog, I use the same stuff, unthinned right out of the bottle. I think I use about 28-30 #s of preasure at the regulator, but use a thin line from the regulator to the air brush, so that may lower the preasure a bit.

Attached is a pic of my Fancy Foam Edge. Me using an airbrush is like like Charlie Brown with a pen , but I was able to get fairly crisp lines using blue 3M tape, lightly set on the surfaces. Hit the wet paint with an air gun ( gently ) to dry the paint, and then tape and mask for the next layer.
Looks good to me! I also did a similar checkerboard pattern but mine bleed like a stuck pig.
I am building a fancyfoam 300 L

Johnny Walker
Oct 04, 2005, 10:01 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcav8r2
Like Hep Dog, I use the same stuff, unthinned right out of the bottle. I think I use about 28-30 #s of preasure at the regulator, but use a thin line from the regulator to the air brush, so that may lower the preasure a bit.

Attached is a pic of my Fancy Foam Edge. Me using an airbrush is like like Charlie Brown with a pen , but I was able to get fairly crisp lines using blue 3M tape, lightly set on the surfaces. Hit the wet paint with an air gun ( gently ) to dry the paint, and then tape and mask for the next layer.
I just took a second look at your paint job.
Your results were so much better then mine.
I would be happy to get that type of finish.
And you mentioned like Hep Dog that you use straight from the bottle without thinning. Hmmm?
I am curiuos to what air brush you guys are using?
As I said I use a Badger 150. Has a med and large tip set.
I tried again without thinning and nothing but splatters.
Thanks Again
JohnnyWalker
Oct 04, 2005, 10:10 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9LIVES1968
DON'T use water to thin.Buy the alcohol based thinner for your paint and mix the thinner and paint in a separate jar then hook up to your gun.Createx is what i use without any problem.The HAWK in my avatar is painted with pearl createx.Hope this helps.
Hi 9Lives,
I may try that and see if it works for my air brush.
I was using pearl red and pearl purple Createx.
. You should try the purple. Looks great with the white foam.
I did not see any of the thinner at the the craft store when I bought the paint and there was no knowledgable sales person availble at the time to help me.
But a very good collection of colors.
More then I could ever use.
It was a craft store chain named Micheal's.
I'll check back with them.
Thanks
JohnnyWalker
Oct 05, 2005, 12:05 AM
EB-66C Team Member
J Morgan's Avatar
I tried some of the cheaper craft type water based paints and didn't care for them. Too chalky for my taste. I use Ace Hardware acrylic latex enamels. Thin with windex about 20%, works great. I have an old,old Badger, still one of my favorites. My JKA Corsair and scratchbuilt F-105 were painted with them for example......

J
Latest blog entry: TBD Devastator @ 1:7.3 scale
Oct 05, 2005, 05:29 AM
It's me Glacier Girl
Another good product to try, FASKOLOR, it's for lexan bodied vehicles.
Works great on foam, thin with alcohol or water. Comes in many colors,pearls and flakes. Works great with an airbrush. www.parmapse.com
A tip to eliminate bleeding, shoot a coat of clear on first. It seals the edges, so colors won't bleed under the tape.
Oct 05, 2005, 12:48 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHELBY1
Another good product to try, FASKOLOR, it's for lexan bodied vehicles.
This is what I use too. It's designed to be used straight from the bottle and covers in 2 coats. It does not damage any type of foam I've tried it on (white styrofoam, blucore, or depron). If you're painting on bluecore and you don't like how the paintjob is turning out, you can clean it off with a little alcohol or winshield wiper fluid (which is also what I use to thin other paints to airbrush consistency)

Misellus
Oct 05, 2005, 05:24 PM
Registered User
rcav8r2's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyWalker
I am curiuos to what air brush you guys are using?
As I said I use a Badger 150. Has a med and large tip set.
I tried again without thinning and nothing but splatters.
Thanks Again
JohnnyWalker
Well I used to use a Badger, and had splattering too. I couldn't get rid of it. I thought that maybe there was someing wrong with the inner parts. The internals looked good, but I priced the parts to see if this would fix the issue. By the time I ended up pricing the parts, and ended up getting a cheapie dual action AB from BearAir, for only a little more.. It has 3 tips (fine, med and large) I use the Med, and get OK results.. I still haven't got the hang of the double action thing though
Dec 29, 2017, 06:04 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcav8r2
Well I used to use a Badger, and had splattering too. I couldn't get rid of it. I thought that maybe there was someing wrong with the inner parts. The internals looked good, but I priced the parts to see if this would fix the issue. By the time I ended up pricing the parts, and ended up getting a cheapie dual action AB from BearAir, for only a little more.. It has 3 tips (fine, med and large) I use the Med, and get OK results.. I still haven't got the hang of the double action thing though

check your tip and needle as odd as it sounds needles can be damaged just transporting them or installing them, and waterbased paints dry so fast they clog tips which causes spattering. another thing that will cause spattering is mismatched needle and tip ( say small needle med tip). as far as the 150 AB goes, they are great for solvent based paints, however i have had little succes with acrylic/waterbased paints. i currently run an iwata revolution HPBCS gravity feed and love it, i have sprayed lacquer, enamel, and acrylics through it and with the exception of constantly having to stop when using acrylics ( this is normal by the way the rule of 5 minutes painting 30 minutes cleaning LOL). however a little retarded helps but i have found that just doing an occasional full blast of paint or straight air will clear the nozzle and allow you to paint longer. i will advise though to completely clean the airbrush prior to next color although i have heard some argue that when doign a fade it isnt necessary but i disagree because cleanign wont hurt a fade but the nozzle/tip could get clogged by drying paint while you are changing colors


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