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Sep 29, 2005, 01:41 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Umi,

i think i got you now. but i might have to build a mock-up
your design is much simpler than mine which is great! btw, how did you type "ㄱ"?
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Sep 29, 2005, 01:42 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerominded
Vfly, that is COOL! Nice work!
thank you Aerominded.
Sep 29, 2005, 03:18 PM
Dragon Slayer
ropanach's Avatar
A project like this is a great undertakeing, I complement you on your skills, very nice work. thank you for shearing.
Sep 29, 2005, 07:39 PM
Vfly,

WHAT a piece of "WORKMANSHIP" - Mind boggleing!!!
Can't wait to see it compleated.

I am speechless on the undertaking that you have and the workmanship.

Jim
Sep 29, 2005, 11:33 PM
Registered User
Thread OP

thank you


thank you ropanach & old 8140,

to tell you the truth, i didn't think it was so great... i find most people here make things so much better.
or did you by any chance think those images from the professionals were mine? my turtle ship is only those images in the middle. anyhow, i appreciate your words.
hmmm.. maybe i should go homedepot or any lumber nearby tomorrow to buy new set of 2x4s...
Oct 04, 2005, 04:40 AM
Dragon Slayer
ropanach's Avatar
I was refuring to the middle set your work.
Oct 04, 2005, 07:43 AM
Wow!
Oct 26, 2005, 12:40 AM
Registered User
Thread OP

some improvements


thank you, ropanach.

following Umi's advice, i have made some improvements. now the oars are shorter but thicker and there is sculling movement. thank you, Umi.

also, spikes have been placed on the top; these were used to repel enemy's jumping on the ship.

the two masts are now leaned backward; this is attack mode. during attack mode, the sails were not used.

the movie files show sculling in action. the weather has not been great so i have not been able to test out in the pool. i'm wondering if it will create enough propelling force...
Last edited by Vfly; Oct 26, 2005 at 01:54 AM.
Oct 26, 2005, 12:43 AM
Registered User
Thread OP

movie files


well, i thought i uploaded the files... trying again.

ok, it says the files are too big... they're only 193kb - 893kb, not even 1mb. what shall i do?
Oct 26, 2005, 02:39 AM
Sea Dragon-Lover
Umi_Ryuzuki's Avatar
The Ship looks great. Nice carving on the head also.
How about a picture of how the oars were finally connected.

There is a place to post Videos here
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=277

See if that forum will host it.

The oars may need to be over sized by at least 25 percent. If you find that they aren't performing, and want to avoid rebuilding them, you could probably attach clear plexiglass/perspex to the bottom of the oars to give each one more surface area.
Oct 26, 2005, 09:33 AM
Registered User
wingnut163's Avatar
looking good. glad you got the oars figured out.
Oct 26, 2005, 08:31 PM
Registered User
Thread OP

thanks


thanks wingnut163.

Umi,

you're amazing! how did you figure out about 25%? have you tried asian boats before? anyways, here's the link. thanks for the tips.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=433697
Oct 26, 2005, 11:56 PM
Sea Dragon-Lover
Umi_Ryuzuki's Avatar
Over sizing rudders and props by 25 percent is kind of a standard for scale models. Similarly, deepening keels on sailboats by up to 200 percent is another "kind of" standard, to counter for over scaled wind.

Is the boat actually moving in that one shot or is that just drifting forward. I like the "go go go..." in the background


Watching the videos I would suggest a few things.
.See if you can counterweight the motor connection. I would be curious to see if it would help smooth out the motion.
.Increase the diameter of the driving connection. This would put a sharper angle on the oars, and increase the stroke distance.
.Put more weight in the boat so the oars are deeper, or increase the length of the oars so that they are deeper. Along with increased surface area.

Great to see it all working. Fantastic job of engineering and assembly.
Oct 27, 2005, 01:38 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Umi_Ryuzuki
Over sizing rudders and props by 25 percent is kind of a standard for scale models. Similarly, deepening keels on sailboats by up to 200 percent is another "kind of" standard, to counter for over scaled wind.

Is the boat actually moving in that one shot or is that just drifting forward. I like the "go go go..." in the background


Watching the videos I would suggest a few things.
.See if you can counterweight the motor connection. I would be curious to see if it would help smooth out the motion.
.Increase the diameter of the driving connection. This would put a sharper angle on the oars, and increase the stroke distance.
.Put more weight in the boat so the oars are deeper, or increase the length of the oars so that they are deeper. Along with increased surface area.

Great to see it all working. Fantastic job of engineering and assembly.
oh, i never knew that. so scale cannot really be perfectly scale... and that's why those keels on some models looked unreasonably long!!

to tell you the truth, it was my 6-year old boy shouting and he pushed the boat... so the boat was not really moving by itself...

i did not quite understand what you meant by 'counterweight'.
i also thought i should have increased the diameter of the circle, but due to the way all those eight oars are connected and also due to the distance of holes in the arms, increasing the diameter is not an easy job. i may have to use some other motor... initially i was going to control each side differently, but it's not possible now, so i guess i'll just use one motor moving both sides. and just use the rudder for making turns.
i really think that adding more weight should solve much of the problem. but i saw a couple of leaks in the boat, so i should repair them before i put some load (maybe right in the middle).

i think i'll be able to make a lot better one after this

thank you so much, Umi!!
Oct 27, 2005, 02:12 AM
Sea Dragon-Lover
Umi_Ryuzuki's Avatar
A couple of coats of laquer inside and out, after the hull is dry, should take care of the leaks.

Take a look at the steam engine again.
Notice that opposite the point where the drive rod is connected the wheel is solid, or weighted.

The motor has to lift all the oar handles. I was thinking that if the connecting arm that lifted the oar connecting bar was counter balanced the motors might run smoother.
As well as you have them working it doesn't seem really necessary, it was just one of those things that go through my head as I look at machines....


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