Can you crush an outrunner with pliers? How do I know if its damaged? - Page 3 - RC Groups
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Sep 18, 2005, 03:16 AM
"$$Crashable Income$$"
the motor might make what you would consider a horrable sound and motion that would seem like it would indicate irreperable physical damage, because of overloading.

ive done this (overloaded an outrunner) and thought my motor was rubbing badly or had something stuck in it, and it was just overloaded.

if it makes an odd sound at mid throttle, than look to see if its rubbing, its probably not if it turns smooth by hand. if it isent than its just vibrating at a certan rpm (for whatever reason) and is probably going to reduce your totaly bearing life, but this isent a big deal and when your flying it might not even do it (due to different loading in the air).

its too late for me to tell what anyone sead. but i wouldent bother with this comment of his. what happens on this site is sometimes just chaos. when people get onto it they are usualy in a good mood and feel happy about checking out interesting stuff about their hobby, and so are typicaly more positive and nice than anyone you will meet someplace normal. however sometimes people are having a bad day or week for some reason or another and they may take badly, or negativly to a situation they would normaly see differently.

its a shame that everyone cant always be happy and nice, but the only thing in your control is how you take it and digest it. dont take offence or let it put you off about the hobby or even the individual.

i would run the motor and not worry if its damaged if it seems ok by the standards mentioned here. they are expensive but you got it to enjoy flying so get out and fly with it or it will be more of a waste.

good luck, happy flying!
Last edited by maux; Sep 18, 2005 at 03:24 AM.
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Sep 18, 2005, 11:07 AM
Registered User
I finally got it apart but I'm sure at this point its damaged be on repair. It was a $20.95 motor so at this point I've ordered another one and will be careful to treat it better. I'd rather just buy a new one than to go through the frustration of taking one apart again.

That was kind of my intention anyway when I originally bought it. At this price I can trash a couple without being out that much.

Thanks for everyones help. Again I apologize for the way the thread started out.
Sep 18, 2005, 12:21 PM
Suspended Account
scratchandbash's Avatar
Originally Posted by xray328
I can totally understand that and agree with you. It was just an unwanted and unnecessary reply.
I'm not arguing with this, but why have I seen so much worse crap that has not drawn warnings. I've seen a number of offense comments, like one fellow who calls peoples planes obese. Of course, no warnings.
Sep 18, 2005, 01:40 PM
Registered User
I think it's because I called him a bad word.

I admit I shouldn't have done that, but I don't see it as a personal attack. I think that he deserved to get called on what he said, and likewise on how I responded to him.
Sep 18, 2005, 03:22 PM
Flying motor mount master
fly_boy99's Avatar

Sorry if this was posted before but what does it look like when you pull
the can off the stator???

I'm sure you can buy some magnets and glue some in and get this one
running again no problem at all.

Sep 18, 2005, 03:32 PM
Old School E-Flyer turned FVP
mcharles13's Avatar
flyboy is right it is probably easy to repair. you can get mags of all sizes....well not quite all but lotsa sizes at

can you show pictures of what it looks like on the inside that has cause you to decide it is irreparable damage?

Sometimes what seems like a huge not worth it problem is really nothing more than a series of little problems that are all easily fixable. Once you fix it once you can fix it again and again. I know you think that $20 is not much for a motor and they are disposable BUT this hobby gets expensive quick. i mean REAL quick! If you can save $20 here and $20 there that is a lot of money in the long run. Take that money and buy another plane!

That's why my first brushless motors were cdrom ones. I ordered all the wire, mags and other parts for about 20-25 bucks and made 4 motors off of that, this is even including the fact i've rewound a couple of times. I still have enough wire for about another 6 motors maybe even more. Fortunately i'm a computer guy and know lotsa computer guys so i got tons of old obsolete cdroms lying around.
Sep 18, 2005, 04:11 PM
Registered User

I've been able to get the outter shell/can apart (sorry I'm not sure on the right words here). I found a couple small slivers of magnet floating around. The problems I've having now though is that I need to get the shaft out of the can as I bent it when testing the motor (as advised, the testing part, not the crashing part). Theres a black nut on the outside of the can that the shaft goes through and as you can see in the picture, theres a metal "nut" on the inside. The things is though, I can't get a hold of the metal nut on the inside due to clearance issues. And when I try to get a needlenose in there the magnets toss it around or get stuck to it. I have been able to get the needlenose in there but I can't get enough of a grip on it to turn the outside nut to release the shaft. If I just turn the outside nut the shaft and nut just spin. I've tried to grip the shaft but thats also a loosing battle as theres really no way to grip it. HELP!
Sep 18, 2005, 06:59 PM
Flying motor mount master
fly_boy99's Avatar

Ok after looking at those pics here are my recommendations:

1) The mags look fine, there might be a small tiny piece loose but it
doesn't look like that is the problem. Remove any small pieces you find,
anything wooden or plastic can help ya here.

2) With almost 90% certainty your shaft is bent so bad that the bearings it rides on are totally hosed. So I recommend you get a new shaft and new bearings put on that baby and you are set and ready to go again!!! The rust on the inside of the can doesn't look good.

Take a look at for parts:

About 8 bucks and your good as new!!!


p.s. A more scary and drastic approach is to just try and straighten the shaft outside the can and change out the bearings. Do you use a prop saver?
Sep 18, 2005, 07:24 PM
Registered User
koko76's Avatar
Not entirely sure on this, but I would be pretty sure that there is no threading on the shaft at the point where it contacts the can. If making the motor inexpensively for the manufacturer was the goal, it would make approximately zero sense to have to spec out a tiny section of thread on the shaft.
More than likely it's a pressed assembly, in which case loosening the "nut" isn't going to do anything.
Having taken apart litterally thousands of things I wasn't supposed to I learned a lot when I was younger about how things are put together. Getting a job designing for manufacture taught me why they did that stuff. Chances are that most of these things would disasemble easily from the beginning were you to have the right tools, in this case the arbor press would have helped you from the start.
Sep 18, 2005, 07:26 PM
Registered User
I appreciate the help. I'll definetly get the bearings and actually they have replacement shafts at


But going back a post, I can't figure out how to get the old shaft out...

By the looks of that picture that black nut should just spin off but I swear it won't budge.
Last edited by xray328; Sep 18, 2005 at 07:36 PM.
Sep 18, 2005, 07:37 PM
Registered User
You'd think if they make the shaft for it then it souldn't be this hard to get out.

Normally I do use a prop saver (like 99% of the time). I had a strange prop vibration issue though when it was on the prop saver so I switched it out to the adapter. My luck - The ESC came unplugged from the receiver leading to a downward spiral prop first.
Last edited by xray328; Sep 18, 2005 at 07:50 PM.
Sep 18, 2005, 09:21 PM
duster52's Avatar
I have several of these and they are not hard to get apart. The bell does come off. That black nut is what holds it there. There are flat sides on the inside of the bell that you can put a tool on and hold it while you turn the nut. It just takes a certain tool that you may or may not have.

The shafts come with the black nut and the part it screws onto already pressed on the shaft. All you have to do is remove the nut, pull out the old shaft, insert new shaft and make sure the spline is aligned correctly with the bell and put the nut on.

I know you probably do not want to do it, but, I always put the bell in a small vise and tighten just enough for it not to turn, putting the pressure on the solid end of the bell. It would be better to find or make a tool that fits inside the bell.

To remove the bell and shaft from the motor, all you have to do is remove the lock ring on the end of the shaft and pull it off with your hands. It will seem hard, but that is only the magnets trying to hold it on.

I actually just last night, rewound one of these and it runs fine!
Sep 18, 2005, 09:43 PM
Registered User
Well at least I'm on the right track. My trouble is keeping the nut inside the bell from spinning. I can't get a hold of it, the pliers keeps slipping off. When I grip the can and spin the nut the entire nut shaft and inside nut spin together. What tool can I use to get in there? The needlenose just aren't working, theres not enough to grab on to. Heres an idea, make that nut inside an actual nut that you can use a socket on.
Last edited by xray328; Sep 18, 2005 at 10:04 PM.
Sep 18, 2005, 10:54 PM
Old School E-Flyer turned FVP
mcharles13's Avatar
Originally Posted by xray328
Well at least I'm on the right track. My trouble is keeping the nut inside the bell from spinning. I can't get a hold of it, the pliers keeps slipping off. When I grip the can and spin the nut the entire nut shaft and inside nut spin together. What tool can I use to get in there? The needlenose just aren't working, theres not enough to grab on to. Heres an idea, make that nut inside an actual nut that you can use a socket on.
Wait a min. Unless i'm hearing you wrong. The shaft, inside and outside nuts spin independent of the bell? The bell and shaft are supposed to be one, as in if the shaft moves the bell moves. I had this happen on one of my motors when the CA broke after a crash. The bell was turning like a madman but was spinning around the shaft. The shaft/prop spun but not nearly at the rate the bell was. It caused a horrible squeal that made my skin crawl.
Sep 18, 2005, 10:57 PM
Flying motor mount master
fly_boy99's Avatar
If you have some small vicegrips I'd grab ahold of that inside nut and then bust it off!!! Remember who cares about this shaft but don't enlarge the hole in the can though.

Ignorance and sheer strength can fix almost anything!!!

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