Originally Posted by Eddie boote

Not sure. I just checked where 'ile Bouchard' is, cooooooooool !!, just south of Tours. I'm just south of Le Mans. In no club for the moment. I will go to ile Bouchard. When is it ? Do you have details inscription etc.

I will bring my U-boat, as attachements.

I found this site very interesting http://u47.chez-alice.fr/index.htm

The guy has a section on shows in France. His boat is a Shaeffer 1:35 boat. He's changing U-47 into Topps famous boat U-552.

Well maybe we see each others handywork soon. Eddie

very beautiful u-boot, i see that you have used the engel baalast, i have buy one but i can't connecting, too complicate for me i undersand anything , can you help me ?

Castor,

I have the Engel 825ml tank. You have to cut a lot of the frame out to fit it in. The batteries 2 x Tornado 7.2volt 4300 are at the front, slung underneath.

This tank is good because it takes her right under at static dive. The switch on my F-16 TX has flood, off, surface switching. I can click and click to the amount of ballast I need. That way I can do gentle dynamic dives, and keep her at periscope depth. Later maybe I'll get a depth control, yet the trimming changes everyting.

So I have Engel tank Art no 1587TA & Art no 1584-BTS-6 switch. The switch is very important. I didn't do the wiring, yet I can trace back from what I have here. I admit it isn't so clear. What do you need to know? I will try to help. Eddie

hello, ihave the engel 825 TA 6 volt and and all the connecting necessary but the scheme seems to be very complicate

Originally Posted by castor3

hello, ihave the engel 825 TA 6 volt and and all the connecting necessary but the scheme seems to be very complicate

Castor3, How is your wiring up of the engel tank? Do you still need some help? I'm sure I can help or others in this group can advise. I'm thinking to get the magnet switch from Engel plus mods to make my 825ml an XP tank.

Also I'm now looking to do a VIID at 1:35 scale. Will be about 2m in length, I've calculated.

Well, after a too long break, Im back at filling and sanding again

Im also VERY close to ordereing the Engel 750 or 825 XP proportional tank, and BTS controler.

But I have a few questions about the piston tanks....

When using these piston tanks, it fills at one end first.....will this make it impossible to dive level ?

I also remember someone who used the 750 tank, and when it was completly full, the conning towewr was just under the surface......so when it is completly full, or empty, the boat should be level in the water.

If I use the 825 tank, maybe the tank only needs to be 90% full for it to just stay under the surface.....but, because of it being only 90% full, wont the boat be out of trim, and not sit level under water ?

Im also presuming that it is very important to install the tank 100% in the center of the pressure vessel ?

Hope someone can answer

Hi, are you intending to sink the U-boat or the Tomcat ? Only kidding. Okay all I can say is related to the Robbe U-47 kit. If you have this then it's easy and staright forward. I was there in your position long ago. The 750 tank was the one everyone raved on about, yet some said the 825 was the way to go. So I went for that. Big mistake I did was the brass decking kit. But that is being changed soon for the plastic one from Dream-Arts. A question of weight if you want the nice water line, It's a sub yet you want to see some of it while on surface mode (not just the coning tower), so forget about the brass decks (look the biz yet too heavy). Back to the tank. Go for the 825ml tank. The U-boat will still sink level, after some fiddling to get the trim done. You won't need to flood 100% too. She will go down on a nice static easy. First time I was ready I just spent so much time doing up and down dives. It's so amazing to watch it happen first time round. Just a tiny movement and all changes, so be prepared for that and some time to get things right with the trim. The guy at Engel is very helpful. Even if you have a non Engel kit they will show you the way. Good luck. (PS will the Tomcat fly?) Hold on a minute closer inspection that's an F-15 Eagle. I was in the ATC, should know better, dummmm.....

Originally Posted by SJ

Well, after a too long break, Im back at filling and sanding again

Im also VERY close to ordereing the Engel 750 or 825 XP proportional tank, and BTS controler.

But I have a few questions about the piston tanks....

When using these piston tanks, it fills at one end first.....will this make it impossible to dive level ?

I also remember someone who used the 750 tank, and when it was completly full, the conning towewr was just under the surface......so when it is completly full, or empty, the boat should be level in the water.

If I use the 825 tank, maybe the tank only needs to be 90% full for it to just stay under the surface.....but, because of it being only 90% full, wont the boat be out of trim, and not sit level under water ?

Im also presuming that it is very important to install the tank 100% in the center of the pressure vessel ?

Hope someone can answer

Thanks alot Eddie.
But I still cant figure out how you can make it dive level, when the water/ballast is not in balance :-)

Anyway, ill order the 825.


Yea, the f-15 will fly soon. Just have to get it painted, and a few loose ends worked out.
build thread here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_67...tm.htm#6707265

SJ, Don't worry there are plenty of other things like bubbles of air in the hull, or in the conning tower that will also come into effect too. She should sink quite horizontally, even though the water does enter exist normally in the back section. You do know you will have to trim with polystyrene foam, in the bows in the stern, as required. Ensure you can get to these parts (don't glue the decks down). The 825XP is the one. More expensive yet with the slider control, it really is accurate. I have't got this. Mine is the earlier TA type. I might upgrade later. PS. Nice Eagle . Lots of work.

SJ, See some images of the placement of the tank. I just looked at your U-boat again. It looks all complete, not in 2 sections as the original Robbe system. Just wondering how you will access the internal parts

Not much room in there for mine. I have sound module, and multi prop box, plus space for my Mpeg3 player. I still have to add 2 or 3 8443 relay switching modules,

Hope this helps, good luck.

Thanks for the pictures

My decks aand pressure vessel can ofcourse be disassembled

I just flued on some thin ABS plastic on the but-joints, to hide the seam at the pressure vessel.

SJ, Nice job. It's a Robbe U-47 then. Good. The join is virtually invisble. Later as you progress and eventually get the trip to the lake, you may have to open the spilt line a little. It's when you attach the two parts and tighten up the bolt, you wonder to yourself how tight. A bit more, just half a turn more etc, etc. What you can't afford to happen is if the outer hull stops the secure butting and the rubber seal is not completely sealing. You will only know if some bubbles appear later. Well it's all step by step. What boat will yours be ? A straight forward U-47, or will you go for something fancy like Castor 3 did.

Thanks Eddie.

I tightned the endcap pretty tight and squishing the O-ring, before I glued on the stern of the boat to give it a seamless look. Im not going to do anything fancy....just a nice paintjob I hope :-)

You can see more pics of my boat in the beginning of this thread.

SJ. I just read through the whole thread again. I should have remembered the Enterprise logo from Star Trek. You started this whole thread. I like the work of Castor 3, and my boat will benefit from the same plastic decking as per Dunc.

At the moment I'm starting on the Torpedo doors. Nasty to have to cut into a finished model.

Looking at the torpedo doors now. I thought to make a new thread, but this is connected so keep it in the build log. I want 4 opening closing doors in the front and one in the rear (as the original boats). Just about ready to cut out the bow a little. I have found some interesting info on the web, from some guys in Germany. This was done on the smaller Revell 1:72nd boat, so if possible for 1:72nd feasible for the bigger Robbe scale boats. See the link here,

http://www.ubootkruse.homepage.t-onl...typ_vii_c.html

Also some fun stuff from Japan, wooooowwww !!!!

http://www.geocities.jp/uboat_kit/uboat/u-boat_007.htm


I have copied over the images also. Does anyone know how the system works? Or have their own ideas for this? Cheers. They did a nice job I think...

Latest situation for my U-boat.
i)Up-down periscope finished.
ii) Brass decks stripped out, and Dream Arts high definition and most importantly lightweight, replaced.
iii) Internal structure strengthened with armour resin (green stuff).
iv) Motorised 88mm deck gun finished. (took a while with them cogs to get a nice slow ratio).
v) Lights working.
vi) Alarrrrrrrrrrrm speaker completed inside coning tower.
vii) CMOS colour miniture camera, with microphone waterproofed, painted grey. Camera made as tiny as possible, transmitter seperated, and found inside coning tower. Could be considerred as morse code flash signal device, or large spot light. This has a long lead, so can be positioned on various locations on the U-boat. Just need to get a monitor next. Receiver will fit into FC-16, and will fix 4' colour monitor with sound also.

Torps are next, then I'm just about done I think.