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Old Oct 21, 2005, 11:18 PM
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Mounting the Motor and fitting the Prop Shaft Stuffing Box


The motor mount assembly was glued into the hull with 5 minute epoxy. The fit between the hull frams was absolutely perfect -- NO trimming was required!! The bottom was then cut out for the prop shaft stuffing box and trimmed to fit. The motor and shaft alignment proved to be a bit tricky, but after changing the angle of the motor mount by bending the aluminum bracket, it all fell into place. The stuffing box was tack glued in place with cya, and will later gaps in the keel will be filled with epoxy and micro balloons, and the bottom faired with bondo.
PAT
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Old Oct 24, 2005, 09:52 AM
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Moving to the Top Side


Now that the puttsey work on the hull is done, it's time for a bit of "visable progress".
Working up the top side begins with adding the deck battens and the center plank at both the bow and the stern. I don't know if it was intensional, or just a "happy accident", but the batten notches in the hull frames are a bit undersized, so that the battens can be fitted snuggly into the frames. Much nicer then a sloppy oversized notch.
Last edited by P. Tritle; Oct 24, 2005 at 10:00 AM.
Old Oct 24, 2005, 09:58 AM
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Aft Deck Planking


The floor rails go in next, followed by the floor boards and side planks. These parts were also dye cut from plastic, and I'm happy to report that they all fit just about perfectly. A pass or two with the sanding block on each end was all the trimming needed. Once fitted, they were glued in place with medium Cya
Then once the side planks were in place and sanded flush with the sheers, the balsa combing was glued in place, flush with the sheers.
Old Oct 24, 2005, 10:06 AM
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Gluing the Plastic Subdack In Place


With all the substructure in and detail sanded, the plastic subdeck is glued in place. The centerline was located and marked on the center batten and the skins glued in one at a time. Again, the fit was very nearly perfect, with just enough excess material around the perimetter to contour into the hull sides. Once the glue had dried and the trimming done, Bondo was used to fill any small gaps that remained.
Old Oct 24, 2005, 10:18 AM
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Adding the Mahogany Transom Veneer


The transom is finished in natural mahogany, so a dye cut mahogany skin will be glued to the plastic sub-structure. The transom veneer is cut about 1/8" oversize all around to make alignment much easier.
Since the bottom of the transom will be submerged, it has to be glued in place securely and sealed on the inside so water doesn't leak in and cause it to seperate later. So, 15 minute epoxy was squegeed onto the veneer and it taped in place on the plastic sub-structure. Once taped in place, the hull was set upright and 10 lb of lead ingots piled on the transom to hold the skin down until the epoxy had cured.
Once cured, the veneer was sanded into the hull and any small gaps that remained around it's perimmeter were filled with 5 minute epoxy and re-sanded.

More to come soon, PAT
Old Oct 24, 2005, 10:10 PM
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Getting the Mahogany Decks Glued On


The 1/16 mahogany deck vaneer was glued in place using medium Cya. Once it was all down and cured, the edges were sanded flush with the hull sides and transom veneer.
Old Oct 24, 2005, 10:15 PM
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Adding the Rub Rails, Chine Strips and Bumpers


With the deck vaneer added and sanded, the 1/16 X 1/8 spruce rub rails were added at the edge of the deck. Chine strips were added using 1/16 X 1/8 spruce, and the bumpers were carved from 3/16 X 1/4 spruce and glued in place. Finally, the plastic rub rail was added to pretty much complete the basic hull assembly.
Old Oct 24, 2005, 10:19 PM
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Sealing the Wood


With all the woodwork done, the decks and rub rails were finish sanded and the last of the glue goobers cleaned up. Finally, all the wood was given a coat of West Systems resin to seal it all up.
So far, the kit has been terrific, and has gone together very well. Parts fit has been good or better, and the quality of the materials has been consistently nice.
From here, it's either start the cabin, or get the hull primed and painted while the weather is still good. Will have to see how it looks tomorrow and take it from there.
PAT
Old Oct 24, 2005, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Tritle
.... all the wood was given a coat of West Systems resin to seal it all up.

Hey Pat, Do you brush or spray the resin?

Cheers
Old Oct 25, 2005, 09:26 AM
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Capt, I brushed the first coat of resin, and since this one is not fiberglassed, will stick with brushing all the way through. The first coat of resin is thinned about 20 - 25% with alcohol so that the wood will get a good soaking. As it starts to build up I'll add a bit more alcohol (30%) so that it flows out smoothly for a good level fill -- also helps keep the sanding time under control.
PAT
Old Oct 25, 2005, 06:44 PM
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Pat, what kind of adhesive did you use on the plastic rub rail? Really nice work, BTW.
Bill
Old Oct 25, 2005, 10:58 PM
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Bill, Getting the rub rail in place can be a royal pain, but I found a way that makes life much easier.
As it turns out, the rail was located 3/4" below the deck rail, so a piece of 3/4" masking tape was applied to the entire length of the hull to be used as a guide for placing the rub rail. Then the plastic rail was glued on about 6" at a time with a thin bead of medium Cya, carefully applied to the hull using the masking tape as a guide. Then when the rail is pressed into the glue, the little bit that oozes out is immediately wiped of with a rag.
After doing it this way a couple times, you'll find that gluing these rails in place really isn't so bad. The key is using the masking tape as a reference for keeping the plastic strip nice and straight.
PAT
Old Oct 25, 2005, 11:46 PM
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Pat, It sounds as if you've developed an excellent, accurate system for affixing rub rails, spray rails. I have some to do and want to do them correctly. Thanks for sharing your method.
Bill
Old Oct 26, 2005, 09:33 AM
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Bill, After making a mess of a couple of those pesky plastic rails it was obvious that a better system was needed. So far, using the tape as a guide has worked out well.
But, before you can glue the rail in place you'll have to "un-coil" it. I do that by pulling it around my thumb to make it straight, or at worst coil just a bit the other way. Practice a little first before you cut the useable parts though, it takes a little practice not to kink the plastic if the pull is a little uneven.
PAT
Old Oct 31, 2005, 09:00 AM
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Taking Advantage of Some Terrific Weather


With the topside pretty well wrapped up, and since the weather was cooperating, I thought it best to get started on the paint work. The hull was primed, and a couple of boo-boo's fixed, and the white base coat sprayed. Unfortunately, I ran out of time to get the bottom masked and sprayed, but that's OK, we'll get there!
PAT


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