Hello gang,

It has been a tradition to post a pictorial thread here in Ezone so I would like to share with you all my Century Raven .50 build. I will be posting B/W pics. from the manual and of my own. Notes are in blue colored text.

MAIN ROTOR ~ 600mm
TAIL ROTOR DIAMETER ~ 9.7 in
OVERALL LENGTH ~ 47.5 in
HEIGHT ~ 15 in
ENGINE ~ 50

Recommended Tools & Accessories

The tools and materials listed below are
the minimum needed to build the helicopter:

Screwdrivers - Slotted and Phillips head.
Long-Nosed Pliers.
Allen Wrenches - 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm.
( supplied in kit ) + 3.0mm
Appropriate Socket Wrench
(glow plug wrench for engine shaft nut)
Hobby Scissors
Double Sided Foam Tape ( 1/16" - 3/32" )
Foam Rubber ( radio packing )
JB Weld ( bond clutch lining )
Thread lock liquid (e.g. Locktite)
Hobby Grease ( Super Lube )
Oil to lubricate sliding shafts.

In addition, the following will make assembly and setup:

Part#CN2015 Hardened Tip Hex Screw Driver Set
Part#CN2026 Pitch Gauge with Paddle Gauge.
Part#CN2034A 150 Curve Tip Ball link Pliers.
Part#CN2052 Main Blade Balancer.
Part#CN2054 Special Glow Plug Wrench Set.
Part#CN2055 Ball Link Sizing Tool.
Part#CN2070 Universal Flybar Lock.
Part#CN2155 Piston Locking Tool.
Part#CN2219 Ball Link Easy Driver.
Part#CN2255 Control Rod Guage.
Part#CNWI26555 5.5mm Nut Driver.
Part#CNWI26570 7.0mm Nut Driver..

Step 1 Rotor Head Block

From parts bag 1: Press in the
Damper Rubbers and the Washout
Pins into the Head Block. Apply one
drop of medium CA glue after the
pins are fully seated. The two M3x4
set screws are for static tracking of
the blades. Install the two M3x4 set
screws and torque evenly to maintain
static tracking of the rotor blades.

The updated head block and anti-rotation guide pins are included in the kit, the seesaw however is plastic. I went ahead and replaced the plastic seesaw with One Piece Machined Seesaw (part# CN2297). The head assembly comes with black dampeners for sport flying, these dampeners can be replaced with a harder 3D dampeners (part# HI3181A)

From parts bag 1:

Insert one ball bearing into each bearing cup and insert into the offset plate. Apply one small drop of medium CA glue to the back side of the bearing cup to secure to the offset plate. Insert one ball bearing into each tie bar. Insert one M3x6 button head screw through the right side hole of the offset plate into one tie bar. Make two identical sub assemblies. Note that the bearing cups face outwards from the head block. Insert one M3x15 button head screw through the tie bar bearing, slide one steel
spacer and carefully apply threadlock to the exposed threads
and insert into the right side of the head block. Do not overtighten.
Repeat for the second sub assembly. Once complete, insert one M3x7
Special ball into each offset plate to complete the assembly.

The bearings from the stock seesaw assembly , M3x15 Button HeadSocket Screw and stock tie bar spacers are used to install the one peice seesaw to the assembly. Same procedure as you would install the bearings, only with less screws

The head assembly was a breeze and I enjoy looking at the shiny parts in the head.There is really nothing much to write about this assembly, because it all fits and goes together.

Will continue later..... Family time out...LOL

nice to see some action in the fuel heli dept.
I am watching with interest, please keep up the thread.

Thanks mate How's your Rappy doing?

Step 3. Main Blade Grip Assembly


The main blade grip assembly is similar to other assemblies in other helicopters, except Century Helicopters uses a bell mixer arm, compare to that of a Raptor, which has a steel ball on the tip of the blade grip that connects to the oval link. Aside from that, all helis. are built in the same world, different time with its unique different design.

The Raven's feathering shaft are thread from tip to tip and it uses an M5 lock nut to secure that grips in place as well, as the bearings inside the grips. The bearings and thrust bearings are installed accordingly, as you would in other helicopters.

The assembly is straight and true, though I did break a sweat when getting around to inserting the feathering shaft through the 3D red hard dampeners, but I manage to get it through by simply getting rid of mold lines inside the dampeners.

We can skip and take a breather when it comes to the Washout Assembly, because it pre-assembled in the factory, but just a precautionary measures, check the pre-assembled assembly to play or if it's assemble correctly.

The Raven comes with a Predator swash plate, the updated version looks attractive and will fit well with the other stock shiny assemblies.

Step 11B Torque Drive Pinion Gear 50

I assembled the Torque Drive Pinion Gear, while the bearing is seated in one half of the frame. By pressing the ends, I was able to get a snug fit and for see if there is play in this assembly and secure the pinion and coupler in place using a M3x4 Set Screw to secure the pinion and M4x4 to secure the torque tube drive coupler.

The Raven .50 now comes standard with a Stainless Steel Torque Tube for direct power speed in the tail.

Step 12 Counter Gear Assembly

One of the updated part in the Raven .50 Kit is the constant drive system. I used the same method of Press and secure with this assembly as well. So far so good, I am enjoying the assembly and maintaining a good easy building pace. There's not much to describe in this assembly nor any short cuts.

The Main Gear is pre-assembled with the Auto-Rotation Bearing installed. From parts bag 2: The Main Shaft has a step in the end of the shaft that is inserted through the auto-rotation assembly. Insert the bottom end through the auto rotation gear assembly aligning the holes and secure the Main Shaft
using one 3x16mm Socket Cap Screw and one 3mm Locknut.

At some time in the future you will need to change the main gear. The main gear assembly can be easily taken out of the mechanics by removing only the main shaft. Tilt the gear assembly rom the front to clear the alloy drive gear and slide the assembly out through side of the upper side frames. Also note, when removing the auto-rotation bearing, it MUST be re-installed into the new gear in the same direction, otherwise when power is applied, the gear will
not drive the main shaft, only the tail gears will turn.

Before I installed the side frames. I took the time to marked the best place to mount my magnets in the fan.

I mounted the sensor arm to the engine, determined the spacing between the arm and the clutch bell, as well, as sensor to the bottom of the fan. I took and exacto blade, placed the point to the bottom of the fan and used my sensor arm as a protractor and slow spin' d my fan around to create a circular mark around the fan. The circular mark will be my guide to pin point where I will put my magnets.

I measured out my circumference. I hope this will serve as a guide for future builders.

Confident that my plan will work or not, buy another fan and try again Once I know here I should drill. I made a pilot hole and drilled away. I'm using 1/8" magnets, that I've used for attaching plank canopies and I've used these magnets, when one of TJ Pro. magnet mysteriously ejected itself in flight After the 30min Epoxy has cured, I balanced the fan using a prop. balancer. The prop. balancer works just a well, as helicopter fan balancer, but it cost less than other brands. To my amazement my fan came out perfectly balanced. I'm happy...

Well, is it flying yet, you have had 2 days.

Nope... I take pics. as I build... I like to take my time and know my mechanics. Not in a rush to get airborne, because once I do.. I'm at the field 7:30 to 4:30pm, evey weekend...LOL..