GWS Tips and Tricks! - RC Groups
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Aug 19, 2005, 07:58 PM
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tallflyer's Avatar

GWS Tips and Tricks!

Ok byy now most of us have built a couple GWS planes so we have learned little tips and tricks that we can share with others to make them the master builders we all think we are

Here is a list from my Friend Roger to get us started, thanks Roger

First tip is to remember to put a dab of ca glue on a "push on" prop (as on C47, BN2, Slowstick F, Quad transport etc) to avoid "popellers" suddenly departing in flight

On from that you might remind people to only use foam friendly (odorless) ca

Before epoxying any of the plastic parts in place their "glueing" surface needs to be "energised" with a scrap of abrasive paper. Left in their original shiny state the epoxy won't form a proper bond - surface has to be roughed up.

Glass fibre re-inforced adhesive tape is great for strengthening areas, for quick repairs and for preventing wear and tear on the underside if you fly (as I do) without lg.

On the warbirds in particular keep the elevator throws small until you find out what the elevator response is like

Thinning acrylic paint for airbrush use is better done with a windscreen de-icer spray fluid than water. De-icer has some kind of alcohol content which causes the paint to spread better, dry quicker and be less prone to runs

Recognise that using 3 cell LiPos on any GWS motors other than the 400 will shorten their life

Coat the thread of the wing retaining screw with liquid soap, wax or a little vaseline and have it in place while you glue the wing retaining nut in place. This prevents you finding out too late that you've glued the thread up.

Reinforce the wing retaining nut area with a little glass fibre cloth or carbon fibre tow epoxied over it.

Epoxy tiny scraps of g/f cloth over the cowl mounts - stops them coming away.

Black plastic electric insulating tape makes good "decals" for, say, deicer strips on the leading edge of wings.

Thanks again Roger.
Last edited by tallflyer; Aug 19, 2005 at 08:08 PM.
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Aug 19, 2005, 08:07 PM
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tallflyer's Avatar

More Tips

one of the best things to use is agood old roll of Strapping tape from your local Staples.

Great way to reinforce wings and hold stuff in place.

I love to use it to tape over teh flat plastic cowl mounts on the GWS warbirds holds them in place ad they never come off.

GWS glue is Contact cement, coat both parts to be glued press together then pull apart let them dry for about 8-10 minutes then press together and Bang your done.

Balance your plane with the battery in it to get it set up for flight.
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Aug 20, 2005, 12:02 AM
Registered User
I always spend the extra few bucks for dubro easy links and hinges, less slop over control surfaces.

I also keep it light, 2s lipos are worth it for stock motors, don't over size the Nicd or nimh batteries from the recomended size's either. I also try and keep the servos under 10 grams.
Aug 20, 2005, 12:24 AM
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tallflyer's Avatar

more tips!

Building light is a grea tip.

I only build all my Warbirds using 2 servos and fly them as Aileron/Elevator/Throttle to save weight, I also dont install any landing gear to save on a little drag in the air, The Dubro ez-conectors work wonders dont have any slop and dont have to worry about Z-Bending anything.

I use strapping tape on the bottom of the fusalage where I belly land for a little extra support.

you can use small strips of it to make some of the weaker parts of foam really tough and the weight wont hurt performance.

I fly most of my Warbirds stock with the GWS 350C motor in ( C ) Gear turning either a EP9070 prop or a EP1080 depending on the plane.

a 2cell Lipo GWS 1300 works great and th enew 300li lipo ESC works like a charm.

I practice all the time I cant fly the real plane on FMS just to keep the hands and eyes working right.

Download some of your Favorite GWS FMS planes HERE
Latest blog entry: Yunnec Typhoon H Review
Aug 20, 2005, 12:47 AM
field epoxy tech.
modman's Avatar
-Glue fuslage together with epoxy (not 5 min) much stronger !

-Use du bro hinges , ez conectors for ez ajustment on servo horns

-hot glue is quick easy and stong for some foam repairs

-use light weight spacle to fill holes made from the manufactory process

- I use lots of sheet alumnium to make battery doors , mounts for servos,gear etc.

-Renforce areas of stress with epoxy and somtimes balsa or bass wood

-use low tack tape to paint over paint

-be creative!

- do not attemt to read the manual just look at the pictures !

sorry mr lin coulnt resist
Aug 20, 2005, 12:50 AM
Off 2 The Edge of Reality
TeamTEOR's Avatar
All models that come with Aluminum tubes to join fiberglass support sticks (such as the Slow Stick) replace the aluminum tube for a brass tube the same size and length. Carbon rods are better than the fiberglass ones as well, but the fiberglass will work fine.

Slow Sticks are better built with a lot of throw on the rudder and elevator, remember you can always dial it back out on a computer radio.

Prep all surfaces with alcohol prior to using glue.

Run a strip or two of fiber tape on the inside of cowls, on a bad landing they will just pop back out instead of crushing and cracking.

Rubber bands through a straw will keep your legs on landing gear from spreading out too far and cracking the fuse. Also brace the top of the landing gear with a piece of plywood and wrap wire through the ply and around the landing gear like if you were lacingthem together, it will also keep it from splitting and wrecking the fuse.
Aug 20, 2005, 01:50 AM
Confused? Who, me?
Roger Lombard's Avatar
Hey Robert,

I think this is a great idea - look at the stuff that's already come up - but I need to restate what I've already told you - a lot of "my" ideas weren't mine - they were stuff I'd picked up here and in other forums in RCG so please guys don't sit there thinking "He's pinched my suggestion" - I haven't - I've re-shared it because it was such a great suggestion in the first place.

Can't resist picking up TeamTEOR suggestion about "prep all surfaces...."

Prep builder with alcohol before and during assembly of kit

DO NOT prep pilot with alcohol before flight - ask me how I know this!

I hope people are getting the hint about the Dubro bits

And one or two more:

Rotating the strut anchorages on the Beaver and the Pico Cub by 90 degrees may make them look less "correct" but it makes the pins in the strut clips a whole lot easier to snap closed and less likely to snap off.

Also replace the silly little foam pads which go over the strut anchors with similar pieces but made out of liteply or some such.

Major glueing such as fuselage halves can be done with PVA/wood glue (Aliphatic resin) which is more flexible and lighter than epoxy but very strong and which will dry much quicker than GWS glue used as a conventional glue. Trouble with GWS glue as a contact adhesive (which it is) is that you don't want contact adhesive in a tricky "lining up exercise" like putting fuse halves together.

Keep 'em coming guys!
Aug 20, 2005, 04:35 AM
Registered User
tallflyer's Avatar
GWS Beaver the tail and the Elevator are real light weight foam reinforce the trailing edge with a little piece of flat carbon rod makes it good and stiff

GWS Tigermoth or any plane that has wing struts, run over and get yourself a Cub of Coffee at Starbucks, grab yourself a handfull of there wood stir sticks makes for a perfect reinforcement ( Epoxy them to the outside of the strut make it look like the struts are made of wood!

if you want to paint the clear canopies here is what i do get a roll of painters tape low tack and lay out a strip of it on a clean work area cut out draw on the tape the sections of the canopy and then cut them out with a sharp xacto knife stick them on the window to be painted so all that is left is the trim lines makes for a easy way to get a clean look!

when building planes like the tigermoth,pico-j3 cub DHC Beaver or any plane that has the light foam wings witht he cover dont use the sticky tape to hold the plastic wing braces on. take a sharp xacto kife and very very lightly trace the outside edge of the brace to be fitted dont cut the foam just the film, then using apiece of clear packing tape cover the area that the brace is to be taped to and then pull off the tape it should take the covering with the tape. now using steal wool or sand paper rough th ebottom part of the wing brace and then using 5 minute epoxy glue it to the top of the wing.

if your looking for a light weight filler mix 50/50 mixture of epoxy and backing powder makes a light weight filler that paints well.
Latest blog entry: Yunnec Typhoon H Review
Aug 20, 2005, 11:42 AM
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tallflyer's Avatar
One of the Better Tips, If your planing to build the GWS Corsair many have found the Aileron setup to be tricky to do! if you are only using Aileron/Elevator as I do try doing the dual Servo aileron setup makes for a real clean setup and works great!

you can find more information here:
Latest blog entry: Yunnec Typhoon H Review
Aug 23, 2005, 07:18 AM
I'm not flying backwards!
Tony65x55's Avatar
There are a couple of mods to do to the e-starter that are simple, easy and will make your e-starter experience more pleasurable. E-starters have two design weaknesses, the landing gear mount and the tail.

1) Drill a 1/8" hole through the landing gear mount from front to back. Push a bamboo skewer into the plane from the firewall to the battery compartment, making sure it passes through the 1/8" hole in the mount. Glue the whole assembly in well and you will never rip a LG mount out. I prefer Gorilla Glue or Probond for this step because it foams up and gets into all the little recesses. It's also very light.

2) Glue a bamboo skewer inside the tail from front to back. You can use the GWS glue, Gorilla or Probond. This will prevent the tailcone fron snapping off in a crash.

The GWS glue is very good but you have to use it right and the instructions don't tell you how. Treat it like contact cement. Lightly coat it on both sides, let it dry 15-20 minutes and stick it together. Treat epoxy like lead. It is very heavy. Use it sparingly.

Aug 23, 2005, 10:00 AM
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tallflyer's Avatar
1) Drill a 1/8" hole through the landing gear mount from front to back. Push a bamboo skewer into the plane from the firewall to the battery compartment, making sure it passes through the 1/8" hole in the mount. Glue the whole assembly in well and you will never rip a LG mount out. I prefer Gorilla Glue or Probond for this step because it foams up and gets into all the little recesses. It's also very light.

Thats a Great tip!
Latest blog entry: Yunnec Typhoon H Review
Aug 24, 2005, 12:00 PM
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tallflyer's Avatar
More tips and trick!

This is one I also Take credit for its called the battery belt!

take a piece of strapping tape about 7 inches long and put about 2 1/2 inches on the top of the battery and then about 2 1/2 inches on the bottom of the battery then press the rest of the tape together ( kind alike a tab on the top of a piece of paper) then put a piece of velcro on the bottom of the flap you just made, slide th ebattery into teh mmode your going to use and then after you get teh balance right put the other side of velcro under the piece on the tab! the cool part about this is that the battery is real easy to remove just peel the velcro apart and using the tab pull the battery out of your plane.

2nd big tip for this thread is if your flying over grass try removing the gear and belly land ( the trick to not breaking props is to flair right when you land and cut the motor)

to flair is to pull the nose up at the last second so the font end of the plane hits last.

you wont break many props if they are not turning.

More Tips Comming Soon!
Latest blog entry: Yunnec Typhoon H Review
Aug 24, 2005, 01:07 PM
Registered User
tallflyer's Avatar
More little tips!

when building planes such as the Corsair,P51,zero or other warbirds if you want to make the fusalage a little stronger in weak areas just use pieces of strapping tape (the kind with fiberglass in it) in small strips on the inside of the fusalage to strengthing the week areas, I have put tape on the inside of a fusalage on a bad crash that broke other planes came out with very little damage!
Latest blog entry: Yunnec Typhoon H Review
Aug 24, 2005, 03:12 PM
Confused? Who, me?
Roger Lombard's Avatar
Next time you're in the LHS buy a cf rod about 1/8" or 3mm in diameter. They come in about 3' lengths and you can chop them up to replace the bamboo stiffeners in the GWS kits that have them (they're about a zillion times stronger but hardly any heavier) and they're also handy in short lengths for strengthening other joints - engine nacelle to fuse (A-10) etc. A one yard length goes a long way and only costs a few dollars.
Aug 24, 2005, 05:06 PM
That'll hold until ...
swatson144's Avatar
Pick up some thin wall tube while you are there. You just split a section of it in quarters and it makes great aileron and elevator stiffners. Outside front if you use tape hinges or in a slit for regular hinges. It doesn't feel like much until it is glued up then the surfaces are stiff.

Or just use the split booms from your helis

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