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Oct 13, 2021, 10:44 AM
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Hi Joe...

This one...

Blades https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4862236
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Oct 13, 2021, 12:08 PM
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Jockadopolus's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lewta
Hi Joe...

This one...

Blades https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4862236
Works when I click on it.
I have sent you a PM
Joe
Oct 13, 2021, 04:45 PM
Registered User
Sorry, no PM in my income box since last week.

And still receiving the 404 error . (??).
Lewta
Oct 13, 2021, 06:35 PM
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britinoz's Avatar
Yes Joe I get the same 404.
Chris...
Oct 14, 2021, 12:13 AM
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Jockadopolus's Avatar
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404 Error is a problem with Thingiverse
I will upload to Cults site later today
Oct 14, 2021, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jockadopolus
404 Error is a problem with Thingiverse
I will upload to Cults site later today
Ok Joe, please post the new link for the blades, ...
Thanks.
Jorge
Oct 15, 2021, 10:22 PM
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britinoz's Avatar
OK .... Question Time.
I've printed all the PLA parts (LWPLA) in transit . and I notice that Joe mentions the front inserts are to help with the balance , so how about printing the forward fuz piece in PLA instead of LW. ?Would that not be a suitable comprise ?
The frame can handle standard servos OK. has it been tried using them . ?
For this size model I would usually go with Corona D 238MG that come in around 26GM + the insert they are at 28 GM compared to a standard size servo at around 52 GM.
I do have many standard servos that don't get used these days and so would be happy to put them to use but am curious of the weight.
As I( will not be printing the blades ,what size should I be looking at .I either will have some or will make a new set.
Chris...
Oct 16, 2021, 02:27 AM
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Jockadopolus's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by britinoz View Post
OK .... Question Time.
I've printed all the PLA parts (LWPLA) in transit . and I notice that Joe mentions the front inserts are to help with the balance , so how about printing the forward fuz piece in PLA instead of LW. ?Would that not be a suitable comprise ?
The frame can handle standard servos OK. has it been tried using them . ?
For this size model I would usually go with Corona D 238MG that come in around 26GM + the insert they are at 28 GM compared to a standard size servo at around 52 GM.
I do have many standard servos that don't get used these days and so would be happy to put them to use but am curious of the weight.
As I( will not be printing the blades ,what size should I be looking at .I either will have some or will make a new set.
Chris...
Hi Chris
The inserts do help with the hang angle and also connect firewall A with former1 adding strength to the front.
I haven't tried printing Fuz1 in PLA and dont see any problem trying that, next crash I will try it.
I also print the canopy in PLA not LWPLA

All the early flights were with std size servos, I was the same had lots of large servos doing nothing
I do prefer the Corona DS339MG

I tried a few sets of blades wooden and printed but I wanted to have a fully printed Gyro.

When you get your Tadpole finished check the weight and use a set from one of your other models in that weight range.

With the 460mm printed blades its not a floater but at 560mm its not bad I prefer the feel with the 460mm blades
Joe
Oct 16, 2021, 06:41 PM
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britinoz's Avatar
I did encounter one "small" problem with the Fuz 1 print. It printed OK at 33.5 gms (Tony should be able to compare the weight to the LW version ) But I can clearly remember Tony using an arrow shaft through the center of his model. Arrow shaft are usually between 7.6-8.1mm. and the hole through F1 is 6mm.So I'm thinking that some mods have been made to the original print.
This is OK for any one using a 6mm carbon rod/tube BUT as I went with the arrow suggestion than I'm in a very bad place. Now with this part it's not just a 'drill out the hole "job ,because there is not enough material around the hole to drill.
I'm also wondering if this will be the same with the rear LW fuz parts.
Another small inconsistency is the U/C cut out on the two front bulkheads 3mm groove in one side with a 4mm in the other. The hole in the wheel is 4mm and can fit a 4mm wire with a little cleaning out. I tried an 1/8" 3.17mm wire that fits OK and will sleeve the wheel. I'm thinking that 4mm may be a bit of an overkill.
I like the wheel design ( very classic )
Chris...
Oct 16, 2021, 07:17 PM
Tony Audsley Retired Locksmith
Lockey's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by britinoz
I did encounter one "small" problem with the Fuz 1 print. It printed OK at 33.5 gms (Tony should be able to compare the weight to the LW version ) But I can clearly remember Tony using an arrow shaft through the center of his model. Arrow shaft are usually between 7.6-8.1mm. and the hole through F1 is 6mm.So I'm thinking that some mods have been made to the original print.
This is OK for any one using a 6mm carbon rod/tube BUT as I went with the arrow suggestion than I'm in a very bad place. Now with this part it's not just a 'drill out the hole "job ,because there is not enough material around the hole to drill.
I'm also wondering if this will be the same with the rear LW fuz parts.
Another small inconsistency is the U/C cut out on the two front bulkheads 3mm groove in one side with a 4mm in the other. The hole in the wheel is 4mm and can fit a 4mm wire with a little cleaning out. I tried an 1/8" 3.17mm wire that fits OK and will sleeve the wheel. I'm thinking that 4mm may be a bit of an overkill.
I like the wheel design ( very classic )
Chris...
Chris, These are the ones I use .. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3291...738e5151rpCago .. they are 4.2mm ID and a tad under 6mm OD ..

But you can use 6mm CF tube from your hobby shop (very expensive though) and you might have to ream out the fuselage tube a little OR .. you can use 5mm CF tube and simply wrap tape around at intervals to make it up to size ..

You could even use a piece of wooden dowel .. its mainly there to lock the "slip-lock" together but it also to add overall strength to the fuselage

The reason I started using arrow shafts were .. I always used to get my CF tubes from Hobby King BUT for a long time now they never have any stock (OF ANYTHING)
Last edited by Lockey; Oct 16, 2021 at 07:31 PM.
Oct 16, 2021, 08:12 PM
Registered User
britinoz's Avatar
Tony
I have unfortunately opened up all the holes for the tube in all the parts ...so I will now have to reduce then in some way.,,but I have found another problem with the firewall. The rearwood facing part does not have the cut outs to match the locating points in Fuz1.
When I look at Joes video ..the slots for locating the parts can bee clearly seen.?
I t does not appear to be much of a weight difference between the LW and the PLA.(8 gms) Makes me wonder if it would be too heavy if it was built in PLA ?
Last edited by britinoz; Oct 16, 2021 at 08:23 PM.
Oct 16, 2021, 08:46 PM
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Jockadopolus's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by britinoz
I did encounter one "small" problem with the Fuz 1 print. It printed OK at 33.5 gms (Tony should be able to compare the weight to the LW version ) But I can clearly remember Tony using an arrow shaft through the center of his model. Arrow shaft are usually between 7.6-8.1mm. and the hole through F1 is 6mm.So I'm thinking that some mods have been made to the original print.
This is OK for any one using a 6mm carbon rod/tube BUT as I went with the arrow suggestion than I'm in a very bad place. Now with this part it's not just a 'drill out the hole "job ,because there is not enough material around the hole to drill.
I'm also wondering if this will be the same with the rear LW fuz parts.
Another small inconsistency is the U/C cut out on the two front bulkheads 3mm groove in one side with a 4mm in the other. The hole in the wheel is 4mm and can fit a 4mm wire with a little cleaning out. I tried an 1/8" 3.17mm wire that fits OK and will sleeve the wheel. I'm thinking that 4mm may be a bit of an overkill.
I like the wheel design ( very classic )
Chris...
Tony's arrow shafts were always 6mm and are a slid fit in the components
My 6mm carbon is slightly larger and the parts need reamed slightly to get a slide fit
The holes only need a slight polish not drilled
It looks like we have left an early firewall in the download I will attach the correct file and correct the download
I did use 3mm U/C wire on early tests but found it to be too springy, went for 4m that also helped with the hang angle.
Joe
Last edited by Jockadopolus; Oct 17, 2021 at 03:58 AM.
Oct 16, 2021, 08:49 PM
Tony Audsley Retired Locksmith
Lockey's Avatar
Chris, it looks like we didn't update the files for the Firewalls .. here are the new ones .. we had to make the firewalls for EITHER the small OR large motors .. because the motor mounting holes overlapped too much ..

I am not sure about the extra weight if ALL printed in PLA .. maybe Joe can comment here as he is the expert when it comes to testing and flying

Anyone printing this model, please use these new Firewalls .. the LG slots are designed to take 4mm piano wire .. I think Joe found 3 mm wire was a bit too light .. but if you decide to use 3mm piano wire, just wrap tape around the wire at the centre to make it tight in the slots

I apologise to for any inconvenience .. the trouble is, with Covid 19 and all its lockdowns etc, it has taken so long to test and develop this we have forgotten some of the mods we had to do

Joe informs me that the smaller motor isn't powerful enough so I have just posted the files for the larger motor

Lockey
Last edited by Lockey; Oct 16, 2021 at 10:00 PM.
Oct 16, 2021, 11:35 PM
Registered User
britinoz's Avatar
Thanks Tony and Joe.

I fully understand what is involved designing a new model and was not complaining but simply drawing to your attention so that other builders did not have the same problems.
I have modified all my formers and center section to accept a 5mm carbon tube.
Can you please give me the weight of the fuz inserts and are they attached /glued to other parts or slipped into position.
Chris...
Oct 17, 2021, 01:51 AM
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Jockadopolus's Avatar
Thread OP
Chris glad for your input we made so many changes it is difficult to remember them all.

Print the doubler in PLA with 100% infill. then glue the front onto the firewall and glue former1 to the back edge
Joe


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