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Sep 16, 2021, 08:27 AM
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Ampbomber's Avatar
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Build Log

Just another AL 1S Victory clone


Well, It's been almost 2 months since I finished the Victory "L" Bone plane. Have had 2 more injections and eyes are improving so I decided to build another Victory clone.

Thought doing a removable wing and found this Victory clone. as shown here:

https://www.pauzuolis-rc.com/product-category/rc-models

After a few minutes of thinking about removable wings I shelved that idea since the plane will never move more than 20 mi frame home. This Victory is quite a bit different than my other V clones as the side view i larger and the wing is swept about 10 degrees more. These changes rendered my drawings unusable. I had to re draw the entire plane for starters. This Victory 1S SL clone is a guestimate of what I gathered from pictures.

Began on 8/11/21 by making more rods. During the week of making rods the drawings were done.

Finished the vertical frame this morning and will begin the horizontal frame.

Our indoor begins in October. Won't be able to fly yet but certainly hope to do so by January.

In the mean time I will just keep building the Victory 1S SL clone.

George
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Sep 17, 2021, 05:16 PM
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This, like all my Victory clones, I s made from .5, .3, and .7 DIY rods . The backbone will be a "L" backbone and target weight will be under 50 g.

To begin the build drawings were made to the measurements of pictures size from many pictures from the site mentioned in the first post. Some info provided, from that site, also helped with sizing the drawings.

To begin the vertical frame bent perimeter r rods were needed. Unfortunately my existing forms were the wrong size so a quicker way to make the bent perimeter rods for both the horizontal and vertical rods was developed. The curved perimeter rods are made with 3K tow, wetted with West slow epoxy, hung vertically and twisted 50 turns. The rods are allowed to cure at 68 degrees for two hours. The picture of the horizontal frame shows the curved rods taped in place until they cure completely (over night) . The two hour cure time made the rods semi still and easy to slowly follow the drawing outline and taped in place If more info is needed let me know. This method was used in picture 1 on the vertical frame. Both the upper and lower curved rods are one piece from nose to tail.

On past builds I've used different methods for the mating of the intersection of the rods. This build I decided to use what I will call "mini gussets" at each rod intersection. I don't like how CA spreads when accelerator is applied and the build West epoxy was used at each gusset which had to set over night and added days to the build. This build I used Zap 5 minute epoxy at each gusset. Again, more info needed.

The third picture shows assembling the horizontal frame with rods through the "L" backbone.

Currently the plane is completely painted and hinges are being installed so bracing can begin.


George
Sep 18, 2021, 11:51 AM
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Lovely build and some mean spectacles to boot. Don't go wrecking your eyes for the sake of a build. I just wish I had somewhere to fly as every time I see your thread I want to build one!
Sep 18, 2021, 01:55 PM
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Trisquire's Avatar
George, can you talk a little about those loupe style devices I see lying on your work surface? I suspect we could all benefit from some magnification now and then.
Sep 18, 2021, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tctele
Lovely build and some mean spectacles to boot. Don't go wrecking your eyes for the sake of a build. I just wish I had somewhere to fly as every time I see your thread I want to build one!
Can't ruin something that is already ruined. Still have hope.

Even you don't have a place to fly one of these the joy of building one is un describable Get to meet wonderful modelers too!

The cost of building on of these DIY CF planes ( without electronics or contrra drive is under $50. Kills a lot of time too.

I think Alexey once said it takes him 14 days of 16 hours building and 8 hours sleeping.
Sep 18, 2021, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trisquire
George, can you talk a little about those loupe style devices I see lying on your work surface? I suspect we could all benefit from some magnification now and then.
Let me tell you about my eyesight so you will understand why and how these are used.

Before my wet MD took over my eyes I had always had a 8 degree vertical shift between right and left. I have always had scripts to get to 20/20 and prisms to bring both eyes together. Without the prisms I see double.

The picture shows the 4 sets I use now. The two bottom sets are adjusted for the left eye and the right eye is closed. The left is my best at this time. Both are getting better but will never be like 4 years ago.

The 4X readers can be used from about 18 inches but can't be bought with prisms so right eye is closed.

My everyday prescription glasses are used for normal chores and daily activities.

I don't know if I have shed any light on your question but be assured I still enjoying my build and look forward to flying again in a few more months.

Like they say, fly her to the crash site.

Back to the build in the AM.
Sep 19, 2021, 09:29 AM
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Trisquire's Avatar
Interesting George. Up to now, I've never used any magnification in my building, but I suspect that makes it more difficult than necessary. My dental hygienist uses an expensive high-end Opti visor. I'm not sure I would need that degree of magnification, but we do some very detail-oriented work on these light weight electric planes.
Sep 28, 2021, 06:56 AM
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The bottom is braced and I have begun to brace the top.

About the only thing learned from bracing the bottom is that the SFGs were always difficult to co build in place and cover. Well. much more difficult now so a new way to do the SFGs developed.
the picture shows the SFGs mounted to the 3 micron Mylar. When cutting them off the Mylar a small amount was left remaining ( shown by the red line). Also. the bottom rod is made longer to faceplate installation.

The second picture shows the SFGs installed with the rods overhanging the wing. When positioning the SFG the extra flap of Mylar was positioned towards the win tip. The extra flap of Mylar is attached to the wing with contact cement before breaking off the extra rod length shown in pix 3. his made for a clean and easy install but did take longer and does add a tad more weight.
Sep 28, 2021, 07:27 AM
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Talking about the contact cement made me think of all the problems encountered in the last 10 years of building with Mylar.

To keep the spray head of the 3M I clean always keep it in mineral spirits between uses.

Also, I took a can of contact cement and removed the propellent by wrapping top with paper towels and inverting it in a can with a weight on top. After the propellent is removed a hole is punctured in the side. A screw seals the ca,

Note: The contact cement in the can still has propellant in it. It takes awhile (days) for the contact cement leave the contact cement. When you need a small amount of contact cement it is easily accusable.
Oct 08, 2021, 05:23 AM
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It's been 2 months since the build began All the parts are built and braced.

Here are a few pictures of the fixtures used to brace the parts.

Next step is to install hinge pins and then set it aside until I'm ready to fly.

I'll get back with the AUW next week.
Oct 09, 2021, 08:26 AM
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Better hurry George, indoor flying starts in 11 days!!!

http://www.skymasters.org/index.php?...l&event=indoor
Oct 09, 2021, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petefoss
Better hurry George, indoor flying starts in 11 days!!!

http://www.skymasters.org/index.php?...l&event=indoor
Hi Pete,

No rush here. I have 4 planes ready to fly but my eyes are not up to it yet. I'll probably stop by to say hello later in the season and hope to be able to fly by February.


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