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Jul 31, 2021, 05:09 PM
Hals und Beinbruch !!!!
lw_hughes's Avatar
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Discussion

1:72 Me110


Summer build on the road. Not much time for building due to excessive work ( flying over burning trees) Finally doing a bit of work on this model. Ive made two small garolite props. Used canopy glue to glue the roughed out props together. Once dry I sanded and balanced the two bonded layers. Left in a glass of water overnight to deboned the props. This model will have 2 5ohm 412 motors and hopefully direct drive props. Using Nicks ztron rx and a 50mah cell. Target weight is under 8 grams. Elevator and ailerons with actuators. So far so good. Lw
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Aug 01, 2021, 06:10 AM
It's a sickness..
c2zinn's Avatar
Love it! I've been looking at the little 3 channel ZT actuator RX with the extra brushless output.. forgive my ignorance but how will you incorporate differential steering with this little gem?

Charles
Aug 01, 2021, 10:36 AM
Hals und Beinbruch !!!!
lw_hughes's Avatar
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Will have ailerons.
Aug 01, 2021, 11:21 AM
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RNAF's Avatar
Such intricate details! This is going to be light…
Aug 01, 2021, 11:38 AM
Registered User
Kinda funny, that this is another plane on my build-list, you did faster...
So seeing you did the SR71 already, could I please have the Archangel?

Joking aside: Should the motors not have more Ohms, since you will be using bigger props than in the KF606?

Looking very good, by the way.
Aug 01, 2021, 12:27 PM
Hals und Beinbruch !!!!
lw_hughes's Avatar
Thread OP
I’ve shaved the props down even further. I want to have approx the same prop blade area as the matched plastic props. The garolite will result in a lighter prop and I can manually adjust the pitch for a tolerable load on the motor. This is all optimistic thinking. If I can get 3 gram static thrust per side that will be good enough. I can’t have a me110 out perform the 109.
Aug 01, 2021, 01:10 PM
Hals und Beinbruch !!!!
lw_hughes's Avatar
Thread OP
Hinges, just wanted to show how I am doing my hinges these days. Ive spend a year playing with actuators and now swear by them. They are fragile and tedious to set up and the soldering takes some practice. Have to give credit to Martin for his idea of using a artists paint brush bristle for center return of a hinge. Last year I used blenderm whisker thin strips for hinges. This can work but as the blenderm dries out, the hinge can flop around. Blenderm is also temperature sensitive so winter flying suffers.
My new hinge technique is to use 3 brush bristles for a hinge. Step one is to find a quality brush with fine straight bristles. I found a wide brush at Michaels for about 14 dollars. Should be a good supply. These bristles are white and have a nice taper to the tip. The portion I use for the hinge the last half inch of the bristle where it tapers. I trim off the very fine 1/8 inch tip as its too thin.
Step two is to make marker lines on the stab and elevator where the bristles will go. I use three bristles so there are two outer bristles for the hinge and one bristle closer to the actuator. This prevents the hinge magnet from just lifting or pushing the elevator around. You want the magnet to be forced to rotate in the coil so the middle bristle keeps the magnet stable.
Step three is to use a pin to poke lengthwise holes in the elevator and stab under your marker lines. I bore the hole right through the elevator and about 1/4 inch into the stab. Once these holes are made I leave the pin in the hole and use another pin to scrape a tiny access hole for glue to be dabbed in. This allows only the embedded tip of the bristle to be glued. This allows the length of the bristle to flex more easily (the bored hole is slightly wider than the bristle) The very thinnest tip of the bristle is the end I glue into the stab.
Step 4 is to slide the elevator over the brittles. I then deflect it to a max up elevator position and then dab a bit of glue on the protruding bristles. The deflecting while glueing ensures a adequate hinge gap to prevent binding.
Once glue is dry I trim the protruding bristles. I find this all allows enough spring centering and flex. There is enough flex that you can still employ a balance magnet on your coil if needed. In some cases a small whisker of blenderm can be added across the hinge to dumb down the actuator response or to add more centering or up or down travel bias.
I find this technique has been very robust and easy to replicate. I havent much clue how others do it but figured Id pass on whats working for me. Lw

Note: in the one photo you can see the small scraped hole in stab where end of bristle is and glue is dabbed.
Aug 01, 2021, 02:35 PM
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RNAF's Avatar
I learned something today! Not a bad idea at all. “Feels” heavy but then again, Mylar hinges have been giving me training in patience..
Aug 01, 2021, 02:58 PM
Hals und Beinbruch !!!!
lw_hughes's Avatar
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Yeah not sure if it adds much weight. Its nice because the bristles are in the very middle so up and down and returning force all seems nicely balanced.
Aug 02, 2021, 05:19 PM
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RNAF's Avatar
I already decided I’m gonna try it some day
Aug 03, 2021, 02:11 PM
17 years of micro balsa bashin
microbuilder's Avatar
Lovely model so far, love the idea of brush bristles as hinges, will have to give that a shot.

Nick
Aug 04, 2021, 11:04 PM
Like a Boss
Heliman420's Avatar
Very nice work Lorne.
Aug 07, 2021, 01:19 PM
Hals und Beinbruch !!!!
lw_hughes's Avatar
Thread OP
First attempt was ok, needs more down thrust. I changed the rx to a deltang twin steer so I can trim out thrust imbalances from home made props.
Aug 08, 2021, 05:42 PM
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Martin SJ's Avatar
Beautiful work as usual, Lorne. And nice work on the hinges, but I think you may have missed part of the point of using tapered bristles, that of being able to adjust the spring strength to match the actuator torque. Like you, I make one hole through the elevator and another part way into the stab, but then make the hole come to the surface of the stab. This allows you to assemble the stab and elevator with no glue, with the bristles going through the elevator and the stab, and exiting from the surface of the stab. Now drive full deflection on the actuator and push the bristles in or out to achieve the deflection desired. At that point dabs of glue at the TE of the elevator and where the bristles exit on the stab will lock everything in place.

One variation on this theme has the bristles also going completely through the width of the stab. Another has the bristles exiting through the surface of both the stab and the elevator, one above and one below.

I have used this method on several planes with 0.020" durabatics surfaces, using a piece of 0.005" spring steel wire to poke the holes. A smear of CA on the surfaces can help keep the wire inside the foam.
Aug 08, 2021, 07:07 PM
Hals und Beinbruch !!!!
lw_hughes's Avatar
Thread OP
I’m sort of using your idea of using the varied width of bristle to achieve best combination of throw and centering. The two outer hinge bristles use the finer section of bristle . The central bristle is the variable as far as thickness for center force and flex. I’m having good luck by adding additional .5mm x1mm magnets as needed top or bottom to the hinge magnet to improve performance.
While on the actuator topic, I had an idea today. I seem to have pondered more this issue of wires breaking off coils rendering them useless. I’ve had some success with the digital microscope finding the end of a broken wire and saving coil. To prevent this I’ve started winding the loose coil wires around the coil a few times and then placing a very tiny patch of surgical tape on top. This give you a few wraps of protected loose wire. If a wire gets a yank and breaks hopefully you can unwind the loose wire and do a repair. Lw


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