Like many of the others in this event, I've been looking at building this plan for a while. In the past, I've always been in to big of a hurry building sport planes to take the time to work out this small scale ship. Both Hurst Bowers and Don Srull have been modeling icons for as long as I've been building. The opportunity to build something that both participated in was too hard to pass up now that I've been forced to slow down and build in a more manual mode.

The last week, or two, have been spent redrawing the plan and isolating the parts. As far as I can tell, the parts, as drawn, seem to be pretty close to correct and later in the week I'll start cutting parts. I've attached PDFs of the major parts that I've isolated so far. The current drawings show the individual stringer notches. They look ok so maybe I'll give them a try.

Power looks like a Park 370 1360 with a 15amp ESC and 3S and a 7x4 prop. I'm not sure what rx or servos yet. I may use a stock Spektrum 4 channel with either 7 or 9 gram servos.

Tom K

Nice plan Tom. Looking forward to seeing it come together.

Steve

Thanks Steve.

It'll be a bit of a change since it'll be a "manual" build. No CNC, bandsaw or drill press. Just hand tools (razor saw, sanding blocks and permagrit files). I haven't done this complex of build this way in about 30 years.

Tom K

Originally Posted by slow_flier

Thanks Steve.

It'll be a bit of a change since it'll be a "manual" build. No CNC, bandsaw or drill press. Just hand tools (razor saw, sanding blocks and permagrit files). I haven't done this complex of build this way in about 30 years.

Tom K

That plan looks great. Should be a fun build.
Like riding a bike, you never forget how. LOL!

Hi Tom, hope your well. Are you back home?
Built this in the early 80's, but with a PeeWee .020 and thrtl sleeve. But, a local machinist in WPB, made a gear reduction, he sold for .020-.09 Cox. The old PW swung an 8-4 wood TF paddle prop. It was a perfect home for the Litco micro 5ch of the early 80's. Flyline guy's provided a lot of nice stuff back then. Your going to love this plane. Truly something that can fly in a school yard.

I really need to revisit some of these old designs, with all the new systems, available.

Fuzz

Can’t have too many Wildcats! Will definitely be watching this

Hi Fuzz - No I'm still at Mom and Dad's. That's why no CNC. etc. Unfortunately, none of the big stuff moves easily and, besides, there's no place here to put it. I does look like fun if I can keep the weight under control.

How are your new digs?

CF105 - I'll try and do it justice.

Tom K

Tom,

Wildcat was my first FF CO2 powered "scale" many years ago. When I got it eventually flying it was so beaten (crash-repair-crash-repair-etc.) as to be not fit for competition any more . I learnt a lot, though.

I have been a big fan of Grumman airplanes since, so will follow your build with great interest.

Jan

Hi Tom, At least your able to do some building! I moved again in late April. Now have a big semi-finished basement, at my old landlords house. I'm in my glory! Very bad wet/hot summer. Not much flying. If I were to build this Wildcat again, I would use polyspan. First used silkspan. Was 4ch w/landing gear. IIRC, it was the first small "schoolyard scale" that I could taxi around. But, would have flown better sans the LG.

Fuzz

Good to hear Fuzz. My current building is a space approximately 4.5 x5.5 feet in my bedroom. When I started building RC, 40+ years ago, I also built in my bed room but had more room.

I plan to cover with Polyspan but have not decided on hoe to attach or finish it. I'll probably use Mod Podge to attach but after that I don't know. Dope's cost (I don't have any here and it would be pricy to bring here) and odor could be an issues.

No flying here at all. The local club has invited me to fly with them but I never seem to get any time.

Tom K

Tom, when I was laid up a few years ago, I used the MP gloss for adhering and matt for sealing silkspan and polyspan. I sealed the wood first with Future.(thinned down with Windex). As far as "dope" goes, I keep some Randolphs(Brodak) butyrate on hand, just for silk. It needs the shrink. Nitrate is too expensive, so, for the last 25yrs I use Watco hardware store lacquer in satin. Stay away from gloss. It takes a long time to dry, and does not sand well. If you can find flat or matt lacquer that is even better. I thin about 60% w/lac thinner. I rather apply 5-6 thin coats than 2-3 thick.
The 50/50 mix is just too vague. I like about a rubbing alcohol viscosity. The Mod Podge way comes out good. But, I like lacquer better(I guess because I'm used to it).

Fuzz

Fuzz, I started using gloss MP back about 10 years ago when I started building park fliers covered with Coverlite. I usually seal with a coat of MP thinned 50/50 with water (Lighter structures are held flat with magnets until dry). Once dry the parts are given a light sanding with the 220/240 side of a foam sanding block to remove the fuzz and then two two coats of MP.

The biggest problem i find with Polyspan is hiding the seams. I've had some success with talc based systems (either talc/nitrate or talc/Polycrylic) but sanding is tricky.

Tom K

Yes, sanding PS can be a PITA. Try giving seam and wood contact areas 2-3 coats of the medium, before the sealing of the open areas. I found this true even with tissue and silkspan coverings. Tho not as many coats needed. Where coverings contact the substructure, this area always absorbs more of the medium(pinholes). Or where covering overlaps, the covering absorb more. So, my LE/TE/sheeted areas, ribs, are given coats first. Or same fuselage area, sheeting/overlaps/stringers. These areas also are places where stubble occur in the PS.

I don't sand these places, per-say, Tom. Some can be flattened rubbing with the palm of your hand. This builds up heat and softens/reattaches the fuzzie. Real problem areas, just a one way light pass with an old piece of 400. Then a coat of the medium. This is one reason I like using lacquer. It is very receptive to heat. And, can be brushed on in very thin coats.

What we are doing is just flattening the fibers and building up the medium, as polyester fibers cannot be cut w/sanding. This fabric dulls scissors and razor blades, so sandpaper is a joke. After the covering is sealed, I use spray can lacquer as the final coat(s).(very light, almost dusting the spray) Spray can lacquer cannot go over butyrate dope, unless it is also butyrate.

Fuzz

These pics explain better what I'm trying to say. Pardon, if I'm being elementary, Tom. Poly Span is only a 15yr newbie thing to me. And I was pulling hair with seams and fuzzies, also.

Thanks Fuzz. I'll have to come back and review all of this when I get ready to cover.

Tom K

Construction begins (slowly)!

The first step in building the fuselage is to laminate the top and bottom keels. Fortunately I have a package of 1/8"x1/8"x36" sticks available. The sticks ware fairly hard but will acceptable for this use. So far I have the lower, full-length and upper, rear keels drying on my magnetic board. I'll let them dry overnight then move on to the upper front and side keels.

I have plenty of time to laminate these parts while I wait for my wood order from Balsa USA. What little wood I have in my stash here is 3 sheets of hard 1/16", 1 sheet of medium/hard 1/16" and a partial sheet of medium 3/32". The medium/hard 1/16" will work for the wing ribs, there isn't enough 3/32" for the formers and I have no 1/8" or 3/16". Unfortunately my local supplier is Hobby Lobby and all of their wood seems to of the hard (>14 pounds/cubic foot) variety.

Tom K