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Nov 18, 2021, 02:22 PM
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I thought about that, but it would interfere with the straps, so the way it's designed is when you slide the tray over the center crossbeam, it will help guide the tray into the slots and it just takes a little lift and wiggle to get the bottom of the strap over the crossbeam. It works pretty good and after a few practice tries you get the hang of it. If you miss the front slot the tray will sit at a weird angle making it difficult to install the thumbscrews so it is pretty much foolproof. I did it with my eyes closed a few times and could tell by feel how it slides in. So I would say an average consumer that is used to an ARF plane, where it all goes easy, would not like this system, but a builder or good hobby enthusiast would get it pretty quickly. Also, there is a little play if you invert the airframe from the tray flex, but it is minimal and this wont be a 3d plane, just an easy flyer with mild aerobatics. If I were building a high G airplane I would add some side supports and design it a little more complex, but I am trying to keep it simple and easy for this type of plane.

The good thing is the top of the nose would keep the tray into position if it failed as the rear support and thumbscrews really hold it all in place and if that broke the airframe would have already had a catastrophic failure.
Last edited by nhk750; Nov 18, 2021 at 02:29 PM.
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Nov 22, 2021, 01:37 PM
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After thinking about the last guys comments I did decide it was a little tricky getting the battery tray line up into the slots with the tray loaded as it flexes a bit, so I went ahead and added another crossbeam near the front to help alignment when sliding into place and now itís super easy. Itís a little more added weight but I used thinner basswood as it doesn't need to hold that much, just alignment help.
Nov 25, 2021, 01:34 PM
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Happy Turkey day


Just a quick update, not much progress lately, but managed to get the side cheeks glued on and will get to work on the top nose deck after the holidays, at least I got the parts ready to glue...
Nov 26, 2021, 08:41 PM
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Working on the nose top section now, and a pic of the power system going together.
Nov 27, 2021, 11:58 PM
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The top nose frame is ready to be sheeted. I decided it was better to only sand as much as needed while gluing the framing formers on, then after all was dry, sanded the frame to its final shape and angles for the sheeting to fit better.
Nov 28, 2021, 09:12 PM
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Still working on the nose, but I am almost done with the hardest part last to be glued down. The final half will be wetted down with 50/50 ammonia and water then bent to shape and cut in position to mate up with the other half, then I will need to carefully pull it up and apply Titebond III to the formers then wrap with medical tape (that only sticks to itself). I have used the medical tape method to secure sheeting on rounded surfaces, like turtle decks and nose sections, for a long time and it works great as it stretches and forms to the material being secured.
Nov 30, 2021, 12:07 AM
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Finished up the top nose job and just need to trim and sand it now. It was a little tricky but went well with wetting, bending, cutting to size and sanding the edge to fit, then used Titebond III to glue and removed excess with paper towels and cue-tips the best as possible before wrapping it up snugly with the medical tape. Nice thing about the medical tape, that only sticks to itself, is when cutting it free it really doesn't stick all that much to any excess glue and removes very easily.
Nov 30, 2021, 03:45 PM
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Happiness is, a nice looking nose...
Nov 30, 2021, 09:31 PM
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Beautiful wooden sculpture. Makes me want to build.
Dec 02, 2021, 12:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingW
Beautiful wooden sculpture. Makes me want to build.
Yes, I would agree with U on this one.
Dec 02, 2021, 10:53 AM
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Thanks guys, I’m on a break from building for a few days now. Just going to follow directions for the next steps and the only other mods planed will be finishing the access door, then when building the wing will install aileron servos in each side.
Dec 06, 2021, 11:16 PM
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Working on the cabin and window framing over the past few days, pretty much following the instructions with no surprises.
Dec 09, 2021, 04:03 PM
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Finishing the cockpit door


The past week I have been concentrating on the finishing the cockpit battery access door. The whole door design has been done in my head and then built freehand from scratch so my brain is getting a little tired from all the thinking...Anyway, I think I have it sorted out and am almost finished figuring it all out. See the pictures below for details.

I was going to use a blind nut and glued on tab at the top, but opted to install two tabs on the top door frame instead as the bottom magnets should hold the door securely in flight. I will probably do this tonight and update with pictures. This would be the simplest method to secure the door, but I might install a 4-40 blind nut in the bottom door jam and use a 4-40 thumbscrew to secure the bottom if the magnets don't feel strong enough, but this is an easy update if needed. I am just worried about positive pressure inside the plane, as I will have an air intake in the cowl, and prop wash will force air into the fuse for cooling of the electrical components, so during high speeds or high g maneuvers I am afraid the door may pop off the magnets possibly enough to lose the door... But, the screw idea is an easy fix for piece of mind and doesn't really add any weight and I still like the magnets as the door simply pops into position and stays there making installation during field action super easy. Overall I am satisfied with how the door modification is coming out and it would be straight forward to replicate for others interested.

You can see a bit larger gap on the sides of door to fuse and I could get the gap tighter if I did this again, but I am ok with the gap and it will allow more exhaust airflow for interior cooling.
Last edited by nhk750; Dec 12, 2021 at 03:37 PM.
Dec 09, 2021, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhk750
...................

I was going to use a blind nut and glued on tab at the top, but opted to install two tabs on the top door frame instead as the bottom magnets should hold the door securely in flight. I will probably do this tonight and update with pictures. This would be the simplest method to secure the door, but I might install a 4-40 blind nut in the bottom door jam and use a 4-40 thumbscrew to secure the bottom if the magnets don't feel strong enough, but this is an easy update if needed. I am just worried about positive pressure inside the plane, as I will have an air intake in the cowl, and prop wash will force air into the fuse for cooling of the electrical components, so during high speeds or high g maneuvers I am afraid the door may pop off the magnets possibly enough to lose the door...


.
Do satisfy your peace of mind but know that lots of electric models come with large pieces of canopy/forward top part of the fuselage held on with magnets...... Precision Aerobatics arf models use magnets for this and their models also have cooling air blowing thru the fuselage and their models are stressed for some pretty violent manoeuvres.

Michael in Ontario, Canada
Dec 09, 2021, 09:41 PM
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FlyingW's Avatar
One old rule of thumb for cooling through a fuselage is to have a larger outlet area than inlet area. This insures that air always moves through and no positive pressure builds up. Might be tougher to accomplish though if you're trying to keep water out.

In any case your craftsmanship is wonderful.

Paul


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