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Question
Improve cooling on proboat Miss Geico 36"
I recently acquired the proboat Miss Geico and after my second run there was yet again steam (not smoke) when I opened the hatch. Both runs I had to bring in the boat because the chuck that holds the drive shaft started slipping, this alone created an immense amount of heat, enough to burn my finger when I touched the chuck, this leads me believe that the slipping is what was boiling the water but the electronics still get pretty hot to the touch after mild running. Way hotter than my E-revo's electronics when I'm bashing.
My thoughts were to either run 2 small small water pumps for each side or to run 1 water pump that is split between both inlets, what do you guys advise? |
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Last edited by ElectricPropuls; Jun 12, 2021 at 06:37 PM.
Reason: Spelling
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Welcome to this forum! The boat comes out of the factory assembled (often not even very good), getting it ready to run, is your task; checking if all nuts and bolts are tightned down properly, checking for leaks and securing the couplers, after you lubricated the flexshafts and adjusted the propulsion trains. 1) Once the coupler has slipped to the point it gets hot, you'll most likely have damage to the flexshaft or the chucks of the coupler to the point where tightening it doesn't work anymore, replace the parts that are damaged. 2) Being able to boil water, means water can enter the boat and you didn't check for leaks, or didn't use hatch tape. Put some paper kitchen towel under the couplers will absorb water that enters through the shaft and avoids getting the electronics wet. 3) A speedboat isn't designed for mild running, specially when completely stock (components have limited headroom to keep the price down), the motor and ESC tend to overheat quickly when you don't run full throttle for at least 80% of the runtime. Horsing around at partial throttle all the time is not good. Adding pumps for cooling should not be necessary, none of my boats have that. A well designed and executed layout for the cooling system, and running the boat as designed (full throttle) will keep the temperature in check. Regards, Jan. |
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Last edited by pompebled; Jun 19, 2021 at 07:55 AM.
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This is my first RC boat since 2012 when I had a Traxxas Blast so I am still trying to figure out he general maintenance and preparations that come with being on the water. I have several other RC cars (E-revo, Trx-4, and Rusler just to name a few) and I'm no stranger to boating either as I've worked on boats my entire life. I'm definitely proud to be an owner of such a beautiful piece of engineering and i hope o get the most out of it with a bit of help from the community. Sent from my SM-A515U using Tapatalk |
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Hi EP,
As long as the rotor doesn't sit loose on the shaft, I would not read too much in the longitudinal play in one motor/drivetrain. You are running flexshafts, which contract under load, so you'll need to have a bit of play between the rear bearing/bushing and the drivedog, to avoid binding under load. Depending on how long the flex parts are this can be the thickness of a fingernail to 1/16". I'm no fan of flexshafts myself (Too much maintenance) and only run wire drive shafts; setting this up with minimal play can be a PITA, so I usually open up my motor and remove a couple of the factory installed shims, to allow some play, this I use to make my wire drives run absolutely bind free with the thrust on the rear bearing, not on the motor bearings... Cats are susceptable to waves, but can handle a reasonable amount of chop at speed when set-up properly. I don't own a cat, so I can't advice you on which way to go COG wise and which propshaft angles to use for choppy conditions, but it should run something like this:
Regards, Jan. |
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Re reading your reply, I have a few remarks: 1) I had to check the pictures of the boat and the designer took a risk with how he configured the cooling system. The inlet is a slanted tube sticking out of the bottom rear section behind(!) the last step of the sponson. When the boat runs slow(ish), the inlet is fully submerged and will pickup plenty of water, but when the speed goes up and the hull gets on step, what rushes past the inlet is an air/water mixture, with less cooling capacity. It'll work, but not nearly as efficient as a rudderblade with a waterpickup in it, or a spray pickup behind the props. 45% throttle is still partial throttle! Run 80% full throttle. 2) That is completely opposite to how we race in Europe; full throttle for the entire runtime (minus some throttling down around the markers)... 3) When that half a teaspoon find's it way into the electronics (receiver), you're in trouble. All my boats are bone dry after a run, if there's water inside I either did a poor hatchtape job, of had a colission. Regards, Jan. |
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Last edited by pompebled; Jun 21, 2021 at 08:25 AM.
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The paint also seems to be chipping off of the front even though I don't hit anything (I'm very diligent about the look of my boat), I even have some of the hull starting to chip off which really makes me mad, I'm assuming the damage is from transportation and lack of quality control from the factory. So far, my excitement for this boat has been more or less diminished by the problems I have had with it. I was expecting a lot of maintenance and care to keep the boat running but so far it's been unnecessary and annoying. Sent from my SM-A515U using Tapatalk |
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Hi EP,
If it were my boat, I'd unscrew the entire drivetrain and do a thorough inspection on wear and tear, along with checking if everything was installed properly to begin with. Also, in the start up sequence, at low throttle, the ESC/motor combo can produce weird noises, if it goes away when you throttle up, ignore it. These hulls are made from vinylester, which cures rather soft, compared to regular polyester and epoxy. No problem, as it allows the hull to flex instead of break, when you bump ito something. The chipping of the toplayer is basically a manufacturing issues, as time is money and they want to have a uniform color out of the mold. To achieve this the colour coat (called gelcoat) is applied thick enough to avoid issues with the finish. Once the gelcoat has cured, the next layer is the vinylester and glasscloth, depending on the skill of the worker in question, there can be parts that have not been applied properly and air is trapped between the gelcoat and the glasscloth. Tips and edges are hard to reach and are prone to these flaws. The gelcoat cures rock hard, while the glasscloth and vinylester are flexible, so hairline cracks will appear from normal running, or even handling the boat. Gelcoat chipping off due to air trapped underneath and hairline cracks do not influence the strength of the hull, just it's appearance... I run CA in the hairline cracks, to avoid dirt getting in and fill the chipped off gelcoat with a drop of epoxy glue, let it cure and sand it into shape, if required and touch it up with paint. This cosmetic issue can be resolved by not buying a Chinese mass produced hull, but at greater cost. Regards, Jan. |
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