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Jun 03, 2021, 03:15 PM
Lot of water; some gets thin
chum444's Avatar
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Build Log

1/48 scale Clyde Puffer


Not a build that would normally be something I was anxious to undertake, but it is a hull pulled from a Bob Herrera mold; ‘nuff said. Zoltansgarage is laying these up. Not a super heavy layup but very well done and compared to ABS hulls, bulletproof!
I’ll appreciate any recommendations for small pigment brush on, or hobby rattle can paint. Concerned that use of regular paints, Rustoleum, etc are so heavy that hull details would be lost.
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Jun 03, 2021, 04:28 PM
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CaptCB's Avatar
Bill,

I will most likely use Tamiya spray paints, as they are designed for use on models with fine details. They are laquar based, and go on in a fine mist. Their bottles of paint are acrylic, and do brush, but not real easily. Better to thin them and use a airbrush.

I would be working on mine, but I have a few things I want to get dialed in on Coos Bay, just in case the chance to "play tugs," comes along.
Jun 03, 2021, 06:22 PM
Lot of water; some gets thin
chum444's Avatar
Thread OP
C,
Thanks. The research I’ve done pointed towards Tamiya paints. Don’t have an airbrush nor do I want to acquire one so will go with their mini rattlers.
Jun 04, 2021, 11:35 AM
Lot of water; some gets thin
chum444's Avatar
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Crowded! Initially thinking to access all but servo through removable coal hatch. Hmmm.
Jun 05, 2021, 02:21 PM
Lot of water; some gets thin
chum444's Avatar
Thread OP
Massing study to get within the TLAR range.
Jun 06, 2021, 03:37 PM
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CaptCB's Avatar
Bill,

If you print this print in a 8.5 x 11'' format, it is very close to 1/112 scale. With the hull being 66.5' long.
It is the best I have currently. I should have copied and reduced the plans to my CalderCraft North Light (1/32 scale) before I shipped it.

I would put your motor as far back in the hull as possible. Then put your battery in front of it, keeping the weight in the back 2/3 of the hull.
Remember, you will also have access when the engine room / wheelhouse is off. Remember, plan for a GOOD coaming under the cargo hatch!!!
You might also consider opening, or partially opening, the freeing ports. So that any water that gets on your deck, drains off, not in.

CB
Jun 06, 2021, 10:33 PM
Tug Hercules Fireman
Tug Hercules's Avatar
Here is one of the best Puffer (VIC) resources that I have come across;

File is too large to upload here;

see;

https://sites.google.com/site/tinysm...come/moonlight


Scroll down to the bottom, and download his e-Book; "Moonlight - A Clyde Puffer Ebook".
Jun 07, 2021, 07:45 AM
Lot of water; some gets thin
chum444's Avatar
Thread OP
Great reference Tug H. Thank you. Charlie, I appreciate your posting of Lochnivar. I had found the same plan sheet earlier at a location I don’t recall. As a result of the massing study it became clear that a good sized deck cutout could be made under the deckhouse for more running gear space. I’m deciding how to best open some of the freeing ports.
Jun 07, 2021, 11:10 AM
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CaptCB's Avatar
Deck draining, option #2

The other option could be to insert a 3/16 - 1/4'' tube in each rear corner of the main deck, and have it go through the bottom of the hull. Sand it flush at both ends. That way any water on the deck would drain out, and you wouldn't have to "carve / hack" on the hull.

As you can see, I have been busy "engineering", this project.


Jun 07, 2021, 03:20 PM
Lot of water; some gets thin
chum444's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptCB
Deck draining, option #2

The other option could be to insert a 3/16 - 1/4'' tube in each rear corner of the main deck, and have it go through the bottom of the hull. Sand it flush at both ends. That way any water on the deck would drain out, and you wouldn't have to "carve / hack" on the hull.

As you can see, I have been busy "engineering", this project.


That’s a great idea CB. Victor told me in his experience with these hulls open freeing ports take in a lot more water than they wash out. Might modify your suggestion just a bit by having the deck scupper exit the hull a click above the waterline .
Jun 08, 2021, 10:48 PM
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zoltansgarage's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by chum444
That’s a great idea CB. Victor told me in his experience with these hulls open freeing ports take in a lot more water than they wash out. Might modify your suggestion just a bit by having the deck scupper exit the hull a click above the waterline .
Here are some ideas for the deck. Sorry I couldn’t make it to scale or paint it. Cap rail holds the deck up and in place. If cut snug, and maybe some weather strip, it should help keep water out. And the steering servo can be on the main deck “lower portion” in the engine room. Then set the upper rear deck on the main deck. The rudder has a pin for easy removal of the deck for access. I think styrene Could work well. Any help? Or was I too late.
Last edited by zoltansgarage; Jun 09, 2021 at 08:30 AM.
Jun 09, 2021, 10:22 AM
Registered User
CaptCB's Avatar
Unfortunately, I don't still have my first one of these, so I can't show what I had come up with, back then.
Jun 09, 2021, 03:21 PM
Lot of water; some gets thin
chum444's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoltansgarage
Here are some ideas for the deck. Sorry I couldn’t make it to scale or paint it. Cap rail holds the deck up and in place. If cut snug, and maybe some weather strip, it should help keep water out. And the steering servo can be on the main deck “lower portion” in the engine room. Then set the upper rear deck on the main deck. The rudder has a pin for easy removal of the deck for access. I think styrene Could work well. Any help? Or was I too late.
Thanks for the thoughts; all suggestions welcomed. I have pretty much decided how the deck openings will be utilized.
Jun 09, 2021, 05:09 PM
GET BACK IN THE SHOP!!!!!!
CaptDH's Avatar
Plenty of access with the rudder linkage up on the deck.

DH
Jun 13, 2021, 02:36 PM
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zoltansgarage's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptDH
Plenty of access with the rudder linkage up on the deck.

DH
I don’t know if this helps, but I found this on the Internet.
Victor


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